<SPAN name="startofbook"></SPAN>
<h1> SIXTY YEARS<br/> <span class="s05">IN</span><br/> SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA</h1>
<p class="center p2 b12">1853-1913</p>
<p class="center p2"><span class="b12">CONTAINING THE REMINISCENCES OF</span><br/>
<br/>
<span class="b15">HARRIS NEWMARK</span></p>
<p class="center p2">EDITED BY<br/>
<br/>
<span class="b12">MAURICE H. NEWMARK</span><br/>
<span class="b12">MARCO R. NEWMARK</span></p>
<p class="p4">Every generation enjoys the use of a vast hoard bequeathed
to it by antiquity, and transmits that hoard, augmented by
fresh acquisitions, to future ages. In these pursuits, therefore,
the first speculators lie under great disadvantages, and, even
when they fail, are entitled to praise.—<span class="smcap">Macaulay.</span></p>
<hr class="np" />
<p class="center s08">To<br/>
<br/>
THE MEMORY OF<br/>
<br/>
MY WIFE</p>
<hr class="np" />
<p><span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_V" id="Page_V">v</SPAN></span></p>
<p class="center b12"><b>In Memoriam</b></p>
<p>At the hour of high twelve on April the fourth, 1916, the
sun shone into a room where lay the temporal abode, for eighty-one
years and more, of the spirit of Harris Newmark. On his
face still lingered that look of peace which betokens a life
worthily used and gently relinquished.</p>
<p>Many were the duties allotted him in his pilgrimage;
splendidly did he accomplish them! Providence permitted him
the completion of his final task—a labor of love—but denied
him the privilege of seeing it given to the community of his
adoption.</p>
<p>To him and to her, by whose side he sleeps, may it be both
monument and epitaph.</p>
<p><i>Thy will be done!</i></p>
<p class="left65">M. H. N.<br/>
M. R. N.</p>
<hr class="np" />
<p><span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_VII" id="Page_VII">vii</SPAN></span></p>
<h2>INTRODUCTION</h2>
<p>Several times during his latter years my friend, Charles
Dwight Willard, urged me to write out my recollections
of the five or six decades I had already passed in Los
Angeles, expressing his regret that many pioneers had carried
from this world so much that might have been of interest to
both the Angeleño of the present and the future historian of
Southern California; but as I had always led an active life of
business or travel, and had neither fitted myself for any sort
of literary undertaking nor attempted one, I gave scant attention
to the proposal. Mr. Willard's persistency, however,
together with the prospect of coöperation offered me by my
sons, finally overcame my reluctance and I determined to
commence the work.</p>
<p>Accordingly in June, 1913, at my Santa Monica home, I
began to devote a few hours each day to a more or less fragmentary
enumeration of the incidents of my boyhood; of my voyage
over the great wastes of sea and land between my ancestral and
adopted homes; of the pueblo and its surroundings that I
found on this Western shore; of its people and their customs;
and, finally, of the men and women who, from then until now,
have contributed to the greatness of the Southland, and of the
things they have done or said to entitle their names to be
recorded. This task I finished in the early fall. During its
progress I entered more and more into the distant Past, until
Memory conjured before me many long-forgotten faces and
happenings. In the end, I found that I had jotted down a
mass of notes much greater than I had expected.</p>
<p>Thereupon the Editors began their duties, which were to
arrange the materials at hand, to supply names and dates
<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_VIII" id="Page_VIII">viii</SPAN></span>
that had escaped me, and to interview many who had been
principals in events and, accordingly, were presumed to know
the details; and much progress was made, to the enlarging
and enrichment of the book. But it was not long before they
found that the work involved an amount of investigation
which their limited time would not permit; and that if carried
out on even the modest plan originally contemplated, some
additional assistance would be required.</p>
<p>Fortunately, just then they met Perry Worden, a post-graduate
of Columbia and a Doctor of Philosophy of the
University of Halle, Germany; a scholar and an author of attainments.
His aid, as investigator and adviser, has been
indispensable to the completion of the work in its present form.
Dr. Worden spent many months searching the newspapers,
magazines and books—some of whose titles find special mention
in the text—which deal with Southern California and its
past; and he also interviewed many pioneers, to each of whom
I owe acknowledgment for ready and friendly coöperation. In
short, no pains was spared to confirm and amplify all the facts
and narratives.</p>
<p>Whether to arrange the matter chronologically or not, was
a problem impossible of solution to the complete satisfaction of
the Editors; this, as well as other methods, having its advantages
and disadvantages. After mature consideration, the
chronological plan was adopted, and the events of each year
have been recorded more or less in the order of their happening.
Whatever confusion, if any, may arise through this treatment
of local history as a chronicle for ready reference will be easily
overcome, it is believed, through the dating of the chapters
and the provision of a comprehensive index; while the brief
chapter-heading, generally a reference to some marked occurrence
in that period, will further assist the reader to get his
bearings. Preference has been given to the first thirty years
of my residence in Los Angeles, both on account of my
affectionate remembrance of that time and because of the
peculiarity of memory in advanced life which enables us to
recall remote events when more recent ones are forgotten; and
<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_IX" id="Page_IX">ix</SPAN></span>
inasmuch as so little has been handed down from the days
of the adobe, this partiality will probably find favor.</p>
<p>In collecting this mass of data, many discrepancies were met
with, calling for the acceptance or rejection of much long current
here as fact; and in all such cases I selected the version
most closely corresponding with my own recollection, or that
seemed to me, in the light of other facts, to be correct. For
this reason, no less than because in my narrative of hitherto
unrecorded events and personalities it would be miraculous
if errors have not found their way into the story, I
shall be grateful if those who discover inaccuracies will report
them to me. In these sixty years, also, I have met many
men and women worthy of recollection, and it is certain that
there are some whose names I have not mentioned; if so, I
wish to disclaim any intentional neglect. Indeed, precisely as I
have introduced the names of a number for whom I have had no
personal liking, but whose services to the community I remember
with respect, so there are doubtless others whose activities,
past or present, it would afford me keen pleasure to note, but
whom unhappily I have overlooked.</p>
<p>With this brief introduction, I give the manuscript to the
printer, not with the ambitious hope of enriching literature in
any respect, but not without confidence that I have provided
some new material for the local historian—perhaps of the
future—and that there may be a goodly number of people
sufficiently interested to read and enjoy the story, yet indulgent
enough to overlook the many faults in its narration.</p>
<p class="left65">H. N.</p>
<p class="i1"><span class="smcap">Los Angeles</span>,
<span class="i2"><i>December 31, 1915</i>.</span></p>
<p><span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_X" id="Page_X"></SPAN></span>
<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_XI" id="Page_XI">xi</SPAN></span></p>
<h2>FOREWORD</h2>
<p>The Historian no longer writes History by warming over
the pancakes of his predecessors. He must surely know
what they have done, and how—and whereby they
succeeded and wherein they failed. But his own labor is to
find the sidelights they did not have. Macaulay saves him
from doing again all the research that Macaulay had to do;
but if he could find a twin Boswell or a second Pepys he would
rather have either than a dozen new Macaulays. Since history
is becoming really a Science, and is no more a closet exploration
of half-digested arm-chair books, we are beginning to learn the
overwhelming value of the contemporary witness. Even a
justice's court will not admit Hearsay Evidence; and Science
has been shamed into adopting the same sane rule. Nowadays
it demands the eye-witness. We look less for the "Authorities"
now, and more for the Documents. There are too many
histories already, such as they are—self-satisfied and oracular,
but not one conclusive. Every history is put out of date,
almost daily, by the discovery of some scrap of paper or some
clay tablet from under the ashes of Babylon.</p>
<p>Mere Humans no longer read History—except in school
where they have to, or in study clubs where it is also Required.
But a plain personal narrative is interesting now as it has been
for five thousand years. The world's greatest book is of course
compulsory; but what is the <i>interesting</i> part of it? Why, the
stories—Adam and Eve; Abraham, Isaac and Jacob; Saul and
David and Samson and Delilah; Solomon, Job, and Jesus the
Christ! And if anyone thinks Moses worked-in a little too
much of the Family Tree—he doesn't know what biblical
archæology is doing. For it is thanks to these same "petty"
<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_XII" id="Page_XII">xii</SPAN></span>
details that modern Science, in its excavations and decipherings,
has verified the Bible and resolved many of its riddles!</p>
<p>Greece had one Herodotus. America had <i>four</i>, antedating
the year 1600. All these truly great historians built from all the
"sources" they could find. But none of them quite give us the
homely, vital picture of life and feeling that one untaught and
untamed soldier, Bernal Diaz, wrote for us three hundred
years ago when he was past ninety, and toothless—and angry
"because the historians didn't get it straight." The student of
Spanish America has often to wish there had been a Bernal
Diaz for every decade and every province from 1492 to 1800.
His unstudied gossip about the conquest of Mexico is less
balanced and less authoritative, but far more illuminative,
than the classics of his leader, Cortez—a university man, as
well as a great conqueror.</p>
<p>For more than a quarter of a century it was one of my duties
to study and review (for the <i>Nation</i> and other critical journals)
all sorts of local chronicles all over Spanish and English America—particularly
of frontier times. In this work I have read
searchingly many hundreds of volumes; and have been brought
into close contact with our greatest students and editors of
"History-Material," and with their standards.</p>
<p>I have read no other such book with so unflagging interest
and content as these memoirs of Harris Newmark. My personal
acquaintance with Southern California for more than
thirty years may color my interest in names and incidents; but
I am appraising this book (whose proofs I have been permitted
to read thoroughly) from the standpoint of the student of
history anywhere. Parkman and Fiske and Coues and Hodge
and Thwaites would join me in the wish that every American
community might have so competent a memorandum of its
life and customs and growth, for its most formative half-century.</p>
<p>This is <i>not</i> a history. It is two other much more necessary
things—for there is no such thing as a real History of Los
Angeles, and cannot be for years. These are the frank, naïve,
conversational memoirs of a man who for more than sixty
<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_XIII" id="Page_XIII">xiii</SPAN></span>
years could say of Southern California almost as truly as
Æneas of his own time—"All of which I saw, much of which I
was." The keen observation, the dry humor, the fireside
intimacy of the talk, the equity and accuracy of memory and
judgment—all these make it a book which will be much more
valued by future generations of readers and students. We are
rather too near to it now.</p>
<p>But it is more than the "confessions" of one ripe and noble
experience. It is, beyond any reasonable comparison, the
most characteristic and accurate composite picture we have
ever had of an old, brave, human, free, and distinctive life
that has changed incredibly to the veneers of modern society.
It is the very mirror of who and what the people were that laid
the real foundations for a community which is now the wonder
of the historian. The very details which are "not Big enough"
for the casual reader (mentally over-tuned to newspaper
headlines and moving pictures) are the vital and enduring
merits of this unpretentious volume. No one else has ever set
down so many of the very things that the final historian of
Los Angeles will search for, a hundred years after all our oratories
and "literary efforts" have been well forgotten. It is a
chronicle indispensable for every public library, every reference
library, the shelf of every individual concerned with the story
of California.</p>
<p>It is the <i>Pepys's Diary</i> of Los Angeles and its tributary
domain.</p>
<p class="left65">
<span class="smcap">Charles F. Lummis.</span></p>
<p><span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_XIV" id="Page_XIV"></SPAN></span>
<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_XV" id="Page_XV">xv</SPAN></span></p>
<h2>PREFACE</h2>
<p>The Editors wish to acknowledge the coöperation given,
from time to time, by many whose names, already
mentioned in the text, are not repeated here, and in
particular to Drs. Leo Newmark and Charles F. Lummis, and
Joseph P. and Edwin J. Loeb, for having read the proofs.
They also wish to acknowledge Dr. Lummis's self-imposed
task of preparing the generous foreword with which this
volume has been favored. Gratitude is also due to various
friends who have so kindly permitted the use of photographs—not
a few of which, never before published, are rare and difficult
to obtain. Just as in the case, however, of those who deserve
mention in these memoirs, but have been overlooked, so it is
feared that there are some who have supplied information and
yet have been forgotten. To all such, as well as to several
librarians and the following, thanks are hereby expressed:
Frederick Baker, Horace Baker, Mrs. J. A. Barrows, Prospero
Barrows, Mrs. R. C. Bartow, Miss Anna McConnell Beckley,
Sigmund Beel, Samuel Behrendt, Arthur S. Bent, Mrs. Dora
Bilderback, C. V. Boquist, Mrs. Mary Bowman, Allan Bromley,
Professor Valentin Buehner, Dr. Rose Bullard, J. O. Burns,
Malcolm Campbell, Gabe Carroll, J. W. Carson, Walter M. Castle,
R. B. Chapman, J. H. Clancy, Herman Cohn, Miss Gertrude
Darlow, Ernest Dawson and Dawson's Bookshop, Louise Deen,
George E. Dimitry, Robert Dominguez, Durell Draper, Miss
Marjorie Driscoll, S. D. Dunann, Gottlieb Eckbahl, Richard
Egan, Professor Alfred Ewington, David P. Fleming, James G.
Fowler, Miss Effie Josephine Fussell, A. P. Gibson, J. Sherman
Glasscock, Gilbert H. Grosvenor, Edgar J. Hartung, Chauncey
Hayes, George H. Higbee, Joseph Hopper, Adelbert Hornung,
<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_XVI" id="Page_XVI">xvi</SPAN></span>
Walter Hotz, F. A. Howe, Dr. Clarence Edward Ide, Luther
Ingersoll, C. W. Jones, Mrs. Eleanor Brodie Jones, Reverend
Henderson Judd, D. P. Kellogg, C. G. Keyes, Willis T. Knowlton,
Bradner Lee, Jr., H. J. Lelande, Isaac Levy, Miss Ella
Housefield Lowe, Mrs. Celeste Manning, Mrs. Morris Meyberg,
Miss Louisa Meyer, William Meying, Charles E. Mitchell, R. C.
Neuendorffer, S. B. Norton, B. H. Prentice, Burr Price, Edward
H. Quimby, B. B. Rich, Edward I. Robinson, W. J. Rouse,
Paul P. Royere, Louis Sainsevain, Ludwig Schiff, R. D. Sepúlveda,
Calvin Luther Severy, Miss Emily R. Smith, Miss
Harriet Steele, George F. Strobridge, Father Eugene Sugranes,
Mrs. Carrie Switzer, Walter P. Temple, W. I. Turck, Judge
and Mrs. E. P. Unangst, William M. Van Dyke, August
Wackerbarth, Mrs. J. T. Ward, Mrs. Olive E. Weston, Professor
A. C. Wheat and Charles L. Wilde.
<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_XVII" id="Page_XVII">xvii</SPAN></span></p>
<p class="center p6 b15">
SIXTY YEARS<br/>
IN<br/>
SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA</p>
<hr class="l15" />
<h2 class="chap1">CHAPTER I<br/> CHILDHOOD AND YOUTH<br/> 1834-1853</h2>
<p>I was born in Loebau, West Prussia, on the 5th of July, 1834,
the son of Philipp and Esther, <i>née</i> Meyer, Neumark; and
I have reason to believe that I was not a very welcome
guest. My parents, who were poor, already had five children,
and the prospects of properly supporting the sixth child were
not bright. As I had put in an appearance, however, and there
was no alternative, I was admitted with good grace into the
family circle and, being the baby, soon became the pet.</p>
<p>My father was born in the ancient town of Neumark; and
in his youth he was apprenticed to a dealer in boots and
shoes in a Russian village through which Napoleon Bonaparte
marched on his way to Moscow. The conqueror sent to the
shop for a pair of fur boots, and I have often heard my father
tell, with modest satisfaction, how, shortly before he visited
the great fair at Nijni Novgorod, he was selected to deliver
them; how more than one ambitious and inquisitive friend tried
to purchase the privilege of approaching the great man, and
what were his impressions of the warrior. When ushered into
the august presence, he found Bonaparte in one of his characteristic
<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_2" id="Page_2">2</SPAN></span>
postures, standing erect, in a meditative mood, braced
against the wall, with one hand to his forehead and the other
behind his back, apparently absorbed in deep and anxious
thought.</p>
<p>When I was but three weeks old, my father's business
affairs called him away from home, and compelled the sacrifice
of a more or less continued absence of eight and one half years.
During this period my mother's health was very poor. Unfortunately,
also, my father was too liberal and extravagantly-inclined
for his narrow circumstances; and not being equipped
to meet the conditions of the district in which we lived and
our economical necessities, we were continually, so to speak, in
financial hot water. While he was absent, my father traveled
in Sweden and Denmark, remitting regularly to his family as
much as his means would permit, yet earning for them but
a precarious living. In 1842 he again joined his family in
Loebau, making visits to Sweden and Denmark during the
summer seasons from 1843 until the middle fifties and spending
the long winters at home. Loebau was then, as now, of
little commercial importance, and until 1849, when I was
fifteen years of age and had my first introduction to the
world, my life was very commonplace and marked by little
worthy of special record, unless it was the commotion centering
in the cobble-paved market-place, as a result of the
Revolution of 1848.</p>
<p>With the winter of 1837 had come a change in my father's
plans and enterprises. Undergoing unusually severe weather
in Scandinavia, he listened to the lure of the New World and
embarked for New York, arriving there in the very hot summer
of 1838. The contrast in climatic conditions proved most disastrous;
for, although life in the new Republic seemed both
pleasing and acceptable to one of his temperament and liberal
views, illness finally compelled him to bid America adieu.</p>
<div class="figcenter"><SPAN name="i_034" id="i_034"></SPAN> <ANTIMG src="images/i_034.jpg" width-obs="600" height-obs="444" alt="" /> <p class="caption">Facsimile of a Part of the MS.</p> </div>
<div class="figcenter"><SPAN name="i_035" id="i_035"></SPAN> <ANTIMG src="images/i_035.jpg" width-obs="284" height-obs="588" alt="" /> <p class="caption">"Note.—The 'F' in the above announcement is the abbreviation for Fabian, one of Philipp Neumark's given names, at one time used in business, but
seldom employed in social correspondence, and finally
abandoned altogether."</p>
</div>
<p>My father was engaged in the making of ink and blacking,
neither of which commodities was, at that time, in such universal
demand as it is now; and my brother, Joseph Philipp, later
known as J. P. Newmark, having some time before left
<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_3" id="Page_3">3</SPAN></span>
Sweden, where he had been assisting him, for England, it was
agreed, in 1849, after a family council, that I was old enough to
accompany my father on his business trips, gradually become
acquainted with his affairs, and thus prepare to succeed
him. Accordingly, in April of that year, I left the family
hearth, endeared to me, unpretentious though it was, and
wandered with my father out into the world. Open confession,
it is said, is good for the soul; hence I must admit that the
prospect of making such a trip attracted me, notwithstanding
the tender associations of home; and the sorrow of parting from
my mother was rather evenly balanced, in my youthful mind,
by the pleasurable anticipation of visiting new and strange
lands.</p>
<p>Any attempt to compare methods of travel in 1849, even in
the countries I then traversed, with those now in vogue, would
be somewhat ridiculous. Country roads were generally poor—in
fact, very bad; and vehicles were worse, so that the entire
first day's run brought us only to Lessen, a small village but
twelve miles from home! Here we spent the night, because of
the lack of better accommodations, in blankets, on the floor of
the wayside inn; and this experience was such a disappointment,
failing to realize, as it did, my youthful anticipations,
that I was desperately homesick and ready, at the first opportunity,
to return to my sorrowing mother. The Fates, however,
were against any such change in our plans; and the next
morning we proceeded on our way, arriving that evening
at the much larger town of Bromberg. Here, for the first time,
the roads and other conditions were better, and my spirits
revived.</p>
<p>Next day we left for Stettin, where we took passage for
Ystad, a small seaport in southern Sweden. Now our real
troubles began; part of the trip was arduous, and the low state
of our finances permitted us nothing better than exposed deck-quarters.
This was particularly trying, since the sea was rough,
the weather tempestuous, and I both seasick and longing for
home; moreover, on arriving at Ystad, after a voyage of twelve
hours or more, the Health Officer came on board our boat and
<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_4" id="Page_4">4</SPAN></span>
notified us that, as cholera was epidemic in Prussia, we were
prohibited from landing! This filled me with mortal fear lest
we should be returned to Stettin under the same miserable
conditions through which we had just passed; but this state of
mind had its compensating influence, for my tears at the discouraging
announcement worked upon the charity of the
uniformed officials, and, in a short time, to my inexpressible
delight, we were permitted to land. With a natural alertness to
observe anything new in my experience, I shall never forget my
first impressions of the ocean. There seemed no limit to the
expanse of stormy waters over which we were traveling; and
this fact alone added a touch of solemnity to my first venture
from home.</p>
<p>From Ystad we proceeded to Copenhagen, where my father
had intimate friends, especially in the Lachmann, Eichel and
Ruben families, to whose splendid hospitality and unvarying
kindness, displayed whenever I visited their neighborhood,
I wish to testify. We remained at Copenhagen a couple of
months, and then proceeded to Gothenburg. It was not at this
time my father's intention to burden me with serious responsibility;
and, having in mind my age, he gave me but little of
the work to do, while he never failed to afford me, when he
could, an hour of recreation or pleasure. The trip as a whole,
therefore, was rather an educational experiment.</p>
<p>In the fall of 1849, we returned to Loebau for the winter.
From this time until 1851 we made two trips together, very
similar to the one already described; and in 1851, when I was
seventeen years of age, I commenced helping in real earnest.
By degrees, I was taught the process of manufacturing; and
when at intervals a stock had been prepared, I made short trips
to dispose of it. The blacking was a paste, put up in small
wooden boxes, to be applied with a brush, such a thing as waterproof
blacking then not being thought of, at least by us.
During the summer of 1851, business carried me to Haparanda,
about the most northerly port in Sweden; and from there I took
passage, stopping at Luleå, Piteå, Umeå, Hernösand, Sundsvall,
Söderhamn and Gefle, all small places along the route. I transacted
<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_5" id="Page_5">5</SPAN></span>
no business, however, on the trip up the coast because
it was my intention to return by land, when I should have
more time for trade; accordingly, on my way back to Stockholm,
I revisited all of these points and succeeded beyond my
expectations.</p>
<p>On my trip north, I sailed over the Gulf of Bothnia which,
the reader will recollect, separates Sweden from Finland, a
province most unhappily under Russia's bigoted, despotic
sway; and while at Haparanda, I was seized with a desire to
visit Torneå, in Finland. I was well aware that if I attempted
to do so by the regular routes on land, it would be necessary to
pass the Russian customhouse, where officers would be sure
to examine my passport; and knowing, as the whole liberal
world now more than ever knows, that a person of Jewish faith
finds the merest sally beyond the Russian border beset with unreasonable
obstacles, I decided to walk across the wide marsh in
the northern part of the Gulf, and thus circumvent these exponents
of intolerance. Besides, I was curious to learn whether, in
such a benighted country, blacking and ink were used at all.
I set out, therefore, through the great moist waste, making my
way without much difficulty, and in due time arrived at Torneå,
when I proceeded immediately to the first store in the neighborhood;
but there I was destined to experience a rude, unexpected
setback. An old man, evidently the proprietor, met
me and straightway asked, "Are you a Jew?" and seeing, or
imagining that I saw, a delay (perhaps not altogether temporary!)
in a Russian jail, I withdrew from the store without
ceremony, and returned to the place whence I had come. Notwithstanding
this adventure, I reached Stockholm in due season,
the trip back consuming about three weeks; and during part
of that period I subsisted almost entirely on salmon, bear's
meat, milk, and <i>knäckebröd</i>, the last a bread usually made of rye
flour in which the bran had been preserved. All in all, I was
well pleased with this maiden-trip; and as it was then September,
I returned to Loebau to spend one more winter at home.
<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_6" id="Page_6">6</SPAN></span></p>
<h2>CHAPTER II<br/> WESTWARD, HO!<br/> 1853</h2>
<p>In April, 1853, when I had reached the age of nineteen, and
was expected to take a still more important part in our
business—an arrangement perfectly agreeable to me—my
father and I resumed our selling and again left for Sweden.
For the sake of economy, as well as to be closer to our field
of operations, we had established two insignificant manufacturing
plants, the one at Copenhagen, where we packed for
two months, the other at Gothenburg, where we also prepared
stock; and from these two points, we operated until the middle
of May, 1853. Then a most important event occurred, completely
changing the course of my life. In the spring, a letter
was received from my brother, J. P. Newmark, who, in 1848, had
gone to the United States, and had later settled in Los Angeles.
He had previously, about 1846, resided in England, as I have
said; had then sailed to New York and tarried for a while in
the East; when, attracted by the discovery of gold, he had
proceeded to San Francisco, arriving there on May 6th, 1851,
being the first of our family to come to the Coast. In this letter
my brother invited me to join him in California; and from the
first I was inclined to make the change, though I realized that
much depended on my father. He looked over my shoulder
while I read the momentous message; and when I came to the
suggestion that I should leave for America, I examined my
father's face to anticipate, if possible, his decision. After some
<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_7" id="Page_7">7</SPAN></span>
reflection, he said he had no doubt that my future would be
benefited by such a change; and while reluctant enough to let
me go, he decided that as soon as practicable I ought to start.
We calculated the amount of blacking likely to be required
for our trade to the season's end, and then devoted the necessary
time to its manufacture. My mother, when informed of
my proposed departure, was beside herself with grief and forthwith
insisted on my return to Loebau; but being convinced that
she intended to thwart my desire, and having in mind the very
optimistic spirit of my brother's letter, I yielded to the influence
of ambitious and unreflecting youth, and sorrowfully
but firmly insisted on the execution of my plans. I feared that,
should I return home to defend my intended course, the mutual
pain of parting would still be great. I also had in mind my
sisters and brothers (two of whom, Johanna, still alive,
and Nathan, deceased, subsequently came to Los Angeles), and
knew that each would appeal strongly to my affection and
regret. This resolution to leave without a formal adieu caused
me no end of distress; and my regret was the greater when, on
Friday, July 1st, 1853, I stood face to face with the actual realization,
among absolute strangers on the deck of the vessel that
was to carry me from Gothenburg to Hull and far away from
home and kindred.</p>
<p>With deep emotion, my father bade me good-bye on the
Gothenburg pier, nor was I less affected at the parting;
indeed, I have never doubted that my father made a great
sacrifice when he permitted me to leave him, since I must have
been of much assistance and considerable comfort, especially
during his otherwise solitary travels in foreign lands. I remember
distinctly remaining on deck as long as there was the
least vision of him; but when distance obliterated all view of
the shore, I went below to regain my composure. I soon installed
my belongings in the stateroom, or cabin as it was
then called, and began to accustom myself to my new and
strange environment.</p>
<p>There was but one other passenger—a young man—and
he was to have a curious part in my immediate future. As he
<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_8" id="Page_8">8</SPAN></span>
also was bound for Hull, we entered into conversation; and
following the usual tendency of people aboard ship, we soon
became acquaintances. I had learned the Swedish language,
and could speak it with comparative ease; so that we conversed
without difficulty. He gave Gothenburg as his place of residence,
although there was no one at his departure to wish him
God-speed; and while this impressed me strangely at the time,
I saw in it no particular reason to be suspicious. He stated
also that he was bound for New York; and as it developed that
we intended to take passage on the same boat, we were pleased
with the prospect of having each other's company throughout
the entire voyage. Soon our relations became more confidential
and he finally told me that he was carrying a sum of money,
and asked me to take charge of a part of it. Unsophisticated
though I was, I remembered my father's warning to be careful
in transactions with strangers; furthermore, the idea of burdening
myself with another's responsibility seeming injudicious, I
politely refused his request, although even then my suspicions
were not aroused. It was peculiar, to be sure, that when we
steamed away from land, the young man was in his cabin; but
it was only in the light of later developments that I understood
why he so concealed himself.</p>
<p>We had now entered the open sea, which was very rough,
and I retired, remaining in my bunk for two days, or until we
approached Hull, suffering from the most terrible seasickness
I have ever experienced; and not until we sailed into port did
I recover my sea legs at all. Having dressed, I again met
my traveling companion; and we became still more intimate.
On Sunday morning we reached Hull, then boasting of no such
harbor facilities as the great Humber docks now in course of
construction; and having transferred our baggage to the train
as best we could, we proceeded almost immediately on our way
to Liverpool. While now the fast English express crosses the
country in about three hours, the trip then consumed the
better part of the night and, being made in the darkness,
afforded but little opportunity for observation.</p>
<p>Hardly had we arrived in Liverpool, when I was surprised
<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_9" id="Page_9">9</SPAN></span>
in a way that I shall never forget. While attempting to find
our bundles as they came from the luggage van—a precaution
necessitated by the poor baggage system then in vogue, which
did not provide for checking—my companion and I were taken
in hand by officers of the law, told that we were under arrest,
and at once conducted to an examining magistrate! As my
conscience was clear, I had no misgivings on account of the
detention, although I did fear that I might lose my personal
effects; nor was I at ease again until they were brought
in for special inspection. Our trunks were opened in the
presence of the Swedish Consul who had come, in the meantime,
upon the scene; and mine having been emptied, it was
immediately repacked and closed. What was my amazement,
however, when my fellow-traveler's trunk was found to contain
a very large amount of money with which he had absconded
from Gothenburg! He was at once hurried away to police
headquarters; and I then learned that, after our departure,
messages had been sent to both Hull and Liverpool to stop the
thief, but that through confusion in the description, doubtless
due to the crude and incomplete information transmitted by
telegraph (then by no means as thoroughly developed as now),
the Liverpool authorities had arrested the only two passengers
arriving there who were known to have embarked at
Gothenburg, and I, unfortunately, happened to be one of
them.</p>
<p>At the period whereof I write, there was a semimonthly
steamer service between Liverpool and New York; and as bad
luck would have it, the boat in which I was to travel paddled
away while I was in the midst of the predicament just described,
leaving me with the unpleasant outlook of having to
delay my departure for America two full weeks. The one thing
that consoled me was that, not having been fastidious as to my
berth, I had not engaged passage in advance, and so was not
further embarrassed by the forfeiture of hard-earned and much-needed
money. As it was, having stopped at a moderately
priced hotel for the night, I set out the next morning to investigate
the situation. Speaking no English, I was fortunate, a
<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_10" id="Page_10">10</SPAN></span>
few days later, in meeting a Swedish emigration agent who
informed me that the <i>Star King</i>, a three-masted sailing vessel
in command of Captain Burland—both ship and captain
hailing from Baltimore—was booked to leave the following
morning; and finding the office of the company, I engaged
one of the six first-class berths in the saloon. There was no
second-cabin, or I might have traveled in that class; and
of steerage passengers the <i>Star King</i> carried more than eight
hundred crowded and seasick souls, most of whom were
Irish. Even in the first-class saloon, there were few, if any, of
the ordinary comforts, as I soon discovered, while of luxuries
there were none; and if one had the misfortune to lose even
trifling delicacies such as I had, including half a dozen bottles
of assorted syrups—put up by good Mrs. Lipman, on my
leaving Gothenburg, and dropped by a bungling porter—the
inconvenience of the situation was intensified.</p>
<p>We left Liverpool—which, unlike Hull, I have since seen
on one of my several visits to Europe—on the evening of the
10th of July. On my way to the cabin, I passed the dining
table already arranged for supper; and as I had eaten very
sparingly since my seasickness on the way to Hull, I was
fully prepared for a square meal. The absence not only of
smoke, but of any smell as from an engine, was also favorable
to my appetite; and when the proper time arrived, I did full
justice to what was set before me. Steamers then were infrequent
on the Atlantic, but there were many sailing vessels;
and these we often passed, so close, in fact, as to enable the
respective captains to converse with each other. In the beginning,
we had an ample supply of fresh meat, eggs and butter, as
well as some poultry, and the first week's travel was like a
delightful pleasure excursion. After that, however, the meat
commenced to deteriorate, the eggs turned stale, and the
butter became rancid; and as the days passed, everything grew
worse, excepting a good supply of cheese which possessed, as
usual, the faculty of improving, rather than spoiling, as it aged.
Mountain water might justly have shown indignation if the
contents of the barrels then on board had claimed relationship;
<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_11" id="Page_11">11</SPAN></span>
while coffee and tea, of which we partook in the usual manner
at the commencement of our voyage, we were compelled
to drink, after a short time, without milk—the one black and
the other green. Notwithstanding these annoyances, I enjoyed
the experience immensely, once I had recovered from my
depression at leaving Europe; for youth could laugh at such
drawbacks, none of which, after all, seriously affected my
naturally buoyant spirits. Not until I narrowly escaped being
shot, through the Captain's careless handling of a derringer,
was I roused from a monotonous, half-dreamy existence.</p>
<div class="figcenter"><SPAN name="i_044a" id="i_044a"></SPAN> <ANTIMG src="images/i_044a.jpg" width-obs="227" height-obs="332" alt="" /> <p class="caption">Philipp Neumark<br/> From a Daguerreotype</p> </div>
<div class="figcenter"><SPAN name="i_044b" id="i_044b"></SPAN> <ANTIMG src="images/i_044b.jpg" width-obs="248" height-obs="330" alt="" /> <p class="caption">Esther Neumark<br/> From a Daguerreotype</p> </div>
<div class="figcenter"><SPAN name="i_044c" id="i_044c"></SPAN> <ANTIMG src="images/i_044c.jpg" width-obs="227" height-obs="332" alt="" /> <p class="caption">J. P. Newmark<br/> From a Daguerreotype</p> </div>
<div class="figcenter"><SPAN name="i_044d" id="i_044d"></SPAN> <ANTIMG src="images/i_044d.jpg" width-obs="280" height-obs="403" alt="" /> <p class="caption">Mr. and Mrs. Joseph Newmark</p> </div>
<div class="figcenter"><SPAN name="i_045" id="i_045"></SPAN> <ANTIMG src="images/i_045.jpg" width-obs="600" height-obs="397" alt="" /> <p class="caption">Los Angeles in the Early Fifties<br/> From a drawing of the Pacific Railway Expedition</p> </div>
<p>Following this escape, matters progressed without special
incident until we were off the coast of Newfoundland, when we
had every reason to expect an early arrival in New York.
Late one afternoon, while the vessel was proceeding with all
sail set, a furious squall struck her, squarely amidships; and in
almost as short a time as it takes to relate the catastrophe, our
three masts were snapped asunder, falling over the side of the
boat and all but capsizing her. The utmost excitement prevailed;
and from the Captain down to the ordinary seaman,
all hands were terror-stricken. The Captain believed, in fact,
that there was no hope of saving his ship; and forgetful of
all need of self-control and discipline, he loudly called to us,
"Every man for himself!" at the same time actually tearing at
and plucking his bushy hair—a performance that in no wise
relieved the crisis. In less than half an hour, the fury of the
elements had subsided, and we found ourselves becalmed; and
the crew, assisted by the passengers, were enabled, by cutting
away chains, ropes and torn sails, to steady the ship and keep
her afloat. After this was accomplished, the Captain engaged
a number of competent steerage passengers to help put up
emergency masts, and to prepare new sails, for which we
carried material. For twelve weary days we drifted with
the current, apparently not advancing a mile; and during all
this time the Atlantic, but recently so stormy and raging, was
as smooth as a mill-pond, and the wreckage kept close to our
ship. It was about the middle of August when this disaster
occurred, and not until we had been busy many days rigging
<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_12" id="Page_12">12</SPAN></span>
up again did a stiff breeze spring up, enabling us to complete
our voyage.</p>
<p>On August 28th, 1853, exactly forty-nine days after our departure
from Liverpool, we arrived at New York, reaching
Sandy Hook in a fog so dense that it was impossible to see any
distance ahead; and only when the fog lifted, revealing the
great harbor and showing how miraculously we had escaped
collision with the numerous craft all about us, was our joy and
relief at reaching port complete. I cannot recollect whether
we took a pilot aboard or not; but I do know that the peculiar
circumstances under which we arrived having prevented a
health officer from immediately visiting us, we were obliged
to cast anchor and await his inspection the next morning.
During the evening, the Captain bought fresh meat, vegetables,
butter and eggs, offered for sale by venders in boats coming
alongside; and with sharpened appetites we made short work
of a fine supper, notwithstanding that various features of shore
life, or some passing craft, every minute or two challenged our
attention, and quite as amply we did justice, on the following
morning, to our last breakfast aboard ship. As I obtained my
first glimpse of New York, I thought of the hardships of my
father there, a few years before, and of his compulsory return
to Europe; and I wondered what might have been my position
among Americans had he succeeded in New York. At last, on
August 29th, 1853, under a blue and inspiriting sky and with both
curiosity and hope tuned to the highest pitch, I first set foot on
American soil, in the country where I was to live and labor the
remainder of my life, whose flag and institutions I have more
and more learned to honor and love.</p>
<p>Before leaving Europe, I had been provided with the New
York addresses of friends from Loebau, and my first duty was
to look them up. One of these, named Lindauer, kept a boarding-house
on Bayard Street near the Five Points, now, I believe,
in the neighborhood of Chinatown; and as I had no desire to
frequent high-priced hotels, I made my temporary abode with
him. I also located the house of Rich Brothers, associated with
the San Francisco concern of the same name and through whom
<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_13" id="Page_13">13</SPAN></span>
I was to obtain funds from my brother with which to continue
my journey; but as I had to remain in New York three weeks
until their receipt, I could do little more in furthering my departure
than to engage second-cabin passage <i>via</i> Nicaragua by
a line running in opposition to the Panamá route, and offering
cheapness as its principal attraction. Having attended to that,
I spent the balance of the time visiting and seeing the city, and
in making my first commercial venture in the New World. In
my impatience to be doing something, I foolishly relieved
Samuel, a brother of Kaspare Cohn, and a nephew of mine, of
a portion of his merchandise; but in a single day I decided to
abandon peddling—a difficult business for which, evidently,
I was never intended. After that, a painful experience with
mosquitoes was my only unpleasant adventure. I did not
know until later that an excited crowd of men were just then
assembled in the neighborhood, in what was styled the Universal
Ice-Water Convention, and that not far away a crowd
of women, quite as demonstrative, excluded from the councils
of men and led by no less a personality than P. T. Barnum,
the showman, were clamoring for both Prohibition and Equal
Suffrage!
<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_14" id="Page_14">14</SPAN></span></p>
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