<h2 class="main">CHAPTER IV</h2>
<p class="first">Those first days in Rome tired Cornélie
greatly. She did too much, as every one does who has just arrived in
Rome; she wanted to take in the whole city at once; and the distances,
although covered in a carriage, and the endless galleries in the
museums resulted in producing physical exhaustion. Moreover she was
constantly experiencing disappointments, in respect of pictures,
statues or buildings. At first she dared not own to these
disappointments; but one afternoon, feeling dead-tired, after she had
been painfully disappointed in the Sistine Chapel, she owned up to
herself. Everything that she saw that was already known to her from her
previous studies disappointed her. Then she resolved to give
sight-seeing a rest. And, after those fatiguing days, when every
morning and every afternoon was spent out of doors, it was a luxury to
surrender herself to the unconscious current of daily life. She
remained at home in the mornings, wrapped in a tea-gown, in her cosy
little bird-cage of a sitting-room, writing letters, dreaming a little,
with her arms folded behind her head; she read Ovid and Petrarch, or
listened to a couple of street-musicians, who, with their quavering
tenors, to the shrill whining of their guitars, filled the silent
street with a sobbing passion of music. At lunch she considered that
she had been lucky in her <i>pension</i>, in her little corner at the
table. She was interested in Baronin von Rothkirch, with her
indifferent, aristocratic condescension towards Rudyard, because she
saw how residence abroad can draw a person out of
the narrow ring of caste principles. The young Baronesse, who cared
nothing about life and merely sketched and painted, interested her
because of her whispering intimacy with Rudyard, which she failed to
understand. Miss Hope was so ingenious, so childishly irrational, that
Cornélie could not imagine how old Hope, the rich
stockinet-manufacturer over in Chicago, allowed this child to travel
about alone, with her far too generous monthly allowance and her total
ignorance of the world and people; and Rudyard himself, though she
sometimes felt an aversion for him, attracted her in spite of that
aversion. Although she had so far formed no deeper friendship with any
of her fellow-boarders, at any rate they were people to whom she was
able to talk; and the conversation at table was a diversion amid the
solitude of the rest of the day.</p>
<p>For in the afternoons, during this period of fatigue and
disappointment, she would merely go for a short walk by herself down
the Corso or on the Pincio and then return home, make her own tea in
her little silver tea-pot and sit dreaming by the log fire, in the
dusk, until it was time to dress for dinner.</p>
<p>And the brightly-lit dining-room with the Guercino ceiling was gay
and cheerful. The <i>pension</i> was crammed: the marchesa had given up
her own room and was sleeping in the bath-room. A hum of voices buzzed
around the tables; the waiters rushed to and fro; spoons and forks
clattered. There was none of the melancholy spirit of so many <i lang=
"fr">tables-d’hôte</i>. The people knew one another; and
the excitement of Roman life, the oxygen in the Roman air seemed to
lend an added vivacity to the gestures and conversation. Amidst this
vivacity the two grimy æsthetic ladies attracted attention by
their unvarying pose, with their eternal evening-dress, their
Jaegers, their beads, the fat books which they read, their angry looks
because people were talking.</p>
<p>After dinner they sat in the drawing-room or in the hall, made
friends here and there and talked about Rome, Rome, Rome. There was
always a great fuss about the music in the different churches: they
consulted the <i>Herald</i>; they asked Rudyard, who knew everything,
and gathered round him; and he, fat and polite as ever, smiled and
distributed tickets and named the day and hour at which an important
service would be held in this church or in that. To English ladies, who
were not fully informed, he would now and then, as it were casually,
impart details about the complexities of Catholic ritual and the
Catholic hierarchy; he explained the nationalities denoted by the
various colours of the seminarists whom you met in shoals of an
afternoon on the Pincio, staring at St. Peter’s, in ecstasy over
St. Peter’s, the mighty symbol of their mighty religion; he set
forth the distinction between a church and a basilica; he related
anecdotes of the private life of Leo XIII. His manner of speaking of
all these things possessed an insinuating charm: the English ladies,
greedy for information, hung on his lips, thought him <i>too</i>
awfully nice, asked him for a thousand particulars.</p>
<p>These days were a great rest for Cornélie. She recovered from
her fatigue and felt indifferent towards Rome. But she did not think of
leaving any the sooner. Whether she was here or elsewhere was all the
same to her: she had to be somewhere. Besides, the <i>pension</i> was
good, her fellow-boarders pleasant and cheerful. She no longer read
Hare’s <i>Walks in Rome</i> or Ovid’s <i>Metamorphoses</i>,
but she read Ouida’s <i>Ariadne</i> over again. She did not care
for the book as much as she had done three years before,
at the Hague; and after that she read nothing. But she amused herself
with the von Rothkirch ladies for a whole evening, looking over Miss
Hope’s album of seals and collection of patterns. How mad those
Americans were on titles and royalties! The Baronin good-naturedly
contributed an impression of her own arms to the album. And the
patterns were greatly admired: gold brocades; silks heavily interwoven
with silver; spangled tulles. Miss Hope related how she had come by
them: she knew one of the queen’s waiting-women, who had formerly
been in service with an American; and this waiting-woman was now able
to procure the patterns for her at a high price: a precious bit of
material picked up while the queen was trying on, or sometimes even cut
out of a broad seam. The child was prouder of her collection of
patterns than an Italian prince of his paintings, said Baronin von
Rothkirch. But, notwithstanding this absurdity, this vanity,
Cornélie came to like the pretty American girl because of her
candid and unsophisticated nature. She looked most attractive in the
evening, in a black low-cut dress, or in a rose chiffon blouse. For
that matter, it was a different frock every night. She possessed a
kaleidoscopic collection of dresses, blouses and jewels. She would walk
through the ruins of the Forum in a tailor-made suit of cream cloth,
lined with orange silk; and her white lace petticoat flitted airily
over the foundations of the Basilica Julia or the Temple of Vesta. Her
gaily-trimmed hats introduced patches of colour from Regent Street or
the Avenue de l’Opéra into the tragic seriousness of the
Colosseum or the ruined palace of the Palatine. The young Baronesse
teased her about her orange silk lining, so in harmony with the Forum,
about her hats, so in keeping with the seriousness of a
place of Christian martyrdom, but she was never angry:</p>
<p>“It’s a nice hat anyway!” she would say, in her
Yankee drawl, which always afforded a good view of her pretty teeth but
made her strain her mouth as though she were cracking filberts.</p>
<p>And the child enjoyed everything, enjoyed the Baronin and the
Baronesse, enjoyed being at a <i>pension</i> kept by a decayed Italian
marchioness. And, as soon as she caught sight of the Marchesa
Belloni’s grey, leonine head, she would make a rush for
her—because a marchioness is higher than a baroness, said Madame
von Rothkirch—drag her into a corner and if possible monopolize
her throughout the evening. Rudyard would then join them; and
Cornélie, seeing this, wondered what Rudyard was, who he was and
what he was about. But this did not interest the Baronin, who had just
received a card for a mass in the papal chapel; and the young Baronesse
merely said that he told legends of the saints so nicely, when
explaining the pictures to her in the Doria and the Corsini.
</p>
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