<p><SPAN name="link2HCH0014" id="link2HCH0014"></SPAN></p>
<h2> CHAPTER 14 </h2>
<p>THE <i>Jane Guy</i> was a fine-looking topsail schooner of a hundred and
eighty tons burden. She was unusually sharp in the bows, and on a wind, in
moderate weather, the fastest sailer I have ever seen. Her qualities,
however, as a rough sea-boat, were not so good, and her draught of water
was by far too great for the trade to which she was destined. For this
peculiar service, a larger vessel, and one of a light proportionate
draught, is desirable—say a vessel of from three hundred to three
hundred and fifty tons. She should be bark-rigged, and in other respects
of a different construction from the usual South Sea ships. It is
absolutely necessary that she should be well armed. She should have, say
ten or twelve twelve-pound carronades, and two or three long twelves, with
brass blunderbusses, and water-tight arm-chests for each top. Her anchors
and cables should be of far greater strength than is required for any
other species of trade, and, above all, her crew should be numerous and
efficient—not less, for such a vessel as I have described, than
fifty or sixty able-bodied men. The Jane Guy had a crew of thirty-five,
all able seamen, besides the captain and mate, but she was not altogether
as well armed or otherwise equipped, as a navigator acquainted with the
difficulties and dangers of the trade could have desired.</p>
<p>Captain Guy was a gentleman of great urbanity of manner, and of
considerable experience in the southern traffic, to which he had devoted a
great portion of his life. He was deficient, however, in energy, and,
consequently, in that spirit of enterprise which is here so absolutely
requisite. He was part owner of the vessel in which he sailed, and was
invested with discretionary powers to cruise in the South Seas for any
cargo which might come most readily to hand. He had on board, as usual in
such voyages, beads, looking-glasses, tinder-works, axes, hatchets, saws,
adzes, planes, chisels, gouges, gimlets, files, spokeshaves, rasps,
hammers, nails, knives, scissors, razors, needles, thread, crockery-ware,
calico, trinkets, and other similar articles.</p>
<p>The schooner sailed from Liverpool on the tenth of July, crossed the
Tropic of Cancer on the twenty-fifth, in longitude twenty degrees west,
and reached Sal, one of the Cape Verd islands, on the twenty-ninth, where
she took in salt and other necessaries for the voyage. On the third of
August, she left the Cape Verds and steered southwest, stretching over
toward the coast of Brazil, so as to cross the equator between the
meridians of twenty-eight and thirty degrees west longitude. This is the
course usually taken by vessels bound from Europe to the Cape of Good
Hope, or by that route to the East Indies. By proceeding thus they avoid
the calms and strong contrary currents which continually prevail on the
coast of Guinea, while, in the end, it is found to be the shortest track,
as westerly winds are never wanting afterward by which to reach the Cape.
It was Captain Guy's intention to make his first stoppage at Kerguelen's
Land—I hardly know for what reason. On the day we were picked up the
schooner was off Cape St. Roque, in longitude thirty-one degrees west; so
that, when found, we had drifted probably, from north to south, <i>not
less than five-and-twenty degrees!</i></p>
<p>On board the Jane Guy we were treated with all the kindness our distressed
situation demanded. In about a fortnight, during which time we continued
steering to the southeast, with gentle breezes and fine weather, both
Peters and myself recovered entirely from the effects of our late
privation and dreadful sufferings, and we began to remember what had
passed rather as a frightful dream from which we had been happily
awakened, than as events which had taken place in sober and naked reality.
I have since found that this species of partial oblivion is usually
brought about by sudden transition, whether from joy to sorrow or from
sorrow to joy—the degree of forgetfulness being proportioned to the
degree of difference in the exchange. Thus, in my own case, I now feel it
impossible to realize the full extent of the misery which I endured during
the days spent upon the hulk. The incidents are remembered, but not the
feelings which the incidents elicited at the time of their occurrence. I
only know, that when they did occur, I then thought human nature could
sustain nothing more of agony.</p>
<p>We continued our voyage for some weeks without any incidents of greater
moment than the occasional meeting with whaling-ships, and more frequently
with the black or right whale, so called in contradistinction to the
spermaceti. These, however, were chiefly found south of the twenty-fifth
parallel. On the sixteenth of September, being in the vicinity of the Cape
of Good Hope, the schooner encountered her first gale of any violence
since leaving Liverpool. In this neighborhood, but more frequently to the
south and east of the promontory (we were to the westward), navigators
have often to contend with storms from the northward, which rage with
great fury. They always bring with them a heavy sea, and one of their most
dangerous features is the instantaneous chopping round of the wind, an
occurrence almost certain to take place during the greatest force of the
gale. A perfect hurricane will be blowing at one moment from the northward
or northeast, and in the next not a breath of wind will be felt in that
direction, while from the southwest it will come out all at once with a
violence almost inconceivable. A bright spot to the southward is the sure
forerunner of the change, and vessels are thus enabled to take the proper
precautions.</p>
<p>It was about six in the morning when the blow came on with a white squall,
and, as usual, from the northward. By eight it had increased very much,
and brought down upon us one of the most tremendous seas I had then ever
beheld. Every thing had been made as snug as possible, but the schooner
laboured excessively, and gave evidence of her bad qualities as a seaboat,
pitching her forecastle under at every plunge and with the greatest
difficulty struggling up from one wave before she was buried in another.
Just before sunset the bright spot for which we had been on the look-out
made its appearance in the southwest, and in an hour afterward we
perceived the little headsail we carried flapping listlessly against the
mast. In two minutes more, in spite of every preparation, we were hurled
on our beam-ends, as if by magic, and a perfect wilderness of foam made a
clear breach over us as we lay. The blow from the southwest, however,
luckily proved to be nothing more than a squall, and we had the good
fortune to right the vessel without the loss of a spar. A heavy cross sea
gave us great trouble for a few hours after this, but toward morning we
found ourselves in nearly as good condition as before the gale. Captain
Guy considered that he had made an escape little less than miraculous.</p>
<p>On the thirteenth of October we came in sight of Prince Edward's Island,
in latitude 46 degrees 53' S., longitude 37 degrees 46' E. Two days
afterward we found ourselves near Possession Island, and presently passed
the islands of Crozet, in latitude 42 degrees 59' S., longitude 48 degrees
E. On the eighteenth we made Kerguelen's or Desolation Island, in the
Southern Indian Ocean, and came to anchor in Christmas Harbour, having
four fathoms of water.</p>
<p>This island, or rather group of islands, bears southeast from the Cape of
Good Hope, and is distant therefrom nearly eight hundred leagues. It was
first discovered in 1772, by the Baron de Kergulen, or Kerguelen, a
Frenchman, who, thinking the land to form a portion of an extensive
southern continent carried home information to that effect, which produced
much excitement at the time. The government, taking the matter up, sent
the baron back in the following year for the purpose of giving his new
discovery a critical examination, when the mistake was discovered. In
1777, Captain Cook fell in with the same group, and gave to the principal
one the name of Desolation Island, a title which it certainly well
deserves. Upon approaching the land, however, the navigator might be
induced to suppose otherwise, as the sides of most of the hills, from
September to March, are clothed with very brilliant verdure. This
deceitful appearance is caused by a small plant resembling saxifrage,
which is abundant, growing in large patches on a species of crumbling
moss. Besides this plant there is scarcely a sign of vegetation on the
island, if we except some coarse rank grass near the harbor, some lichen,
and a shrub which bears resemblance to a cabbage shooting into seed, and
which has a bitter and acrid taste.</p>
<p>The face of the country is hilly, although none of the hills can be called
lofty. Their tops are perpetually covered with snow. There are several
harbors, of which Christmas Harbour is the most convenient. It is the
first to be met with on the northeast side of the island after passing
Cape Francois, which forms the northern shore, and, by its peculiar shape,
serves to distinguish the harbour. Its projecting point terminates in a
high rock, through which is a large hole, forming a natural arch. The
entrance is in latitude 48 degrees 40' S., longitude 69 degrees 6' E.
Passing in here, good anchorage may be found under the shelter of several
small islands, which form a sufficient protection from all easterly winds.
Proceeding on eastwardly from this anchorage you come to Wasp Bay, at the
head of the harbour. This is a small basin, completely landlocked, into
which you can go with four fathoms, and find anchorage in from ten to
three, hard clay bottom. A ship might lie here with her best bower ahead
all the year round without risk. To the westward, at the head of Wasp Bay,
is a small stream of excellent water, easily procured.</p>
<p>Some seal of the fur and hair species are still to be found on Kerguelen's
Island, and sea elephants abound. The feathered tribes are discovered in
great numbers. Penguins are very plenty, and of these there are four
different kinds. The royal penguin, so called from its size and beautiful
plumage, is the largest. The upper part of the body is usually gray,
sometimes of a lilac tint; the under portion of the purest white
imaginable. The head is of a glossy and most brilliant black, the feet
also. The chief beauty of plumage, however, consists in two broad stripes
of a gold color, which pass along from the head to the breast. The bill is
long, and either pink or bright scarlet. These birds walk erect; with a
stately carriage. They carry their heads high with their wings drooping
like two arms, and, as their tails project from their body in a line with
the legs, the resemblance to a human figure is very striking, and would be
apt to deceive the spectator at a casual glance or in the gloom of the
evening. The royal penguins which we met with on Kerguelen's Land were
rather larger than a goose. The other kinds are the macaroni, the jackass,
and the rookery penguin. These are much smaller, less beautiful in
plumage, and different in other respects.</p>
<p>Besides the penguin many other birds are here to be found, among which may
be mentioned sea-hens, blue peterels, teal, ducks, Port Egmont hens,
shags, Cape pigeons, the nelly, sea swallows, terns, sea gulls, Mother
Carey's chickens, Mother Carey's geese, or the great peterel, and, lastly,
the albatross.</p>
<p>The great peterel is as large as the common albatross, and is carnivorous.
It is frequently called the break-bones, or osprey peterel. They are not
at all shy, and, when properly cooked, are palatable food. In flying they
sometimes sail very close to the surface of the water, with the wings
expanded, without appearing to move them in the least degree, or make any
exertion with them whatever.</p>
<p>The albatross is one of the largest and fiercest of the South Sea birds.
It is of the gull species, and takes its prey on the wing, never coming on
land except for the purpose of breeding. Between this bird and the penguin
the most singular friendship exists. Their nests are constructed with
great uniformity upon a plan concerted between the two species—that
of the albatross being placed in the centre of a little square formed by
the nests of four penguins. Navigators have agreed in calling an
assemblage of such encampments a rookery. These rookeries have been often
described, but as my readers may not all have seen these descriptions, and
as I shall have occasion hereafter to speak of the penguin and albatross,
it will not be amiss to say something here of their mode of building and
living.</p>
<p>When the season for incubation arrives, the birds assemble in vast
numbers, and for some days appear to be deliberating upon the proper
course to be pursued. At length they proceed to action. A level piece of
ground is selected, of suitable extent, usually comprising three or four
acres, and situated as near the sea as possible, being still beyond its
reach. The spot is chosen with reference to its evenness of surface, and
that is preferred which is the least encumbered with stones. This matter
being arranged, the birds proceed, with one accord, and actuated
apparently by one mind, to trace out, with mathematical accuracy, either a
square or other parallelogram, as may best suit the nature of the ground,
and of just sufficient size to accommodate easily all the birds assembled,
and no more—in this particular seeming determined upon preventing
the access of future stragglers who have not participated in the labor of
the encampment. One side of the place thus marked out runs parallel with
the water's edge, and is left open for ingress or egress.</p>
<p>Having defined the limits of the rookery, the colony now begin to clear it
of every species of rubbish, picking up stone by stone, and carrying them
outside of the lines, and close by them, so as to form a wall on the three
inland sides. Just within this wall a perfectly level and smooth walk is
formed, from six to eight feet wide, and extending around the encampment—thus
serving the purpose of a general promenade.</p>
<p>The next process is to partition out the whole area into small squares
exactly equal in size. This is done by forming narrow paths, very smooth,
and crossing each other at right angles throughout the entire extent of
the rookery. At each intersection of these paths the nest of an albatross
is constructed, and a penguin's nest in the centre of each square—thus
every penguin is surrounded by four albatrosses, and each albatross by a
like number of penguins. The penguin's nest consists of a hole in the
earth, very shallow, being only just of sufficient depth to keep her
single egg from rolling. The albatross is somewhat less simple in her
arrangements, erecting a hillock about a foot high and two in diameter.
This is made of earth, seaweed, and shells. On its summit she builds her
nest.</p>
<p>The birds take especial care never to leave their nests unoccupied for an
instant during the period of incubation, or, indeed, until the young
progeny are sufficiently strong to take care of themselves. While the male
is absent at sea in search of food, the female remains on duty, and it is
only upon the return of her partner that she ventures abroad. The eggs are
never left uncovered at all—while one bird leaves the nest the other
nestling in by its side. This precaution is rendered necessary by the
thieving propensities prevalent in the rookery, the inhabitants making no
scruple to purloin each other's eggs at every good opportunity.</p>
<p>Although there are some rookeries in which the penguin and albatross are
the sole population, yet in most of them a variety of oceanic birds are to
be met with, enjoying all the privileges of citizenship, and scattering
their nests here and there, wherever they can find room, never
interfering, however, with the stations of the larger species. The
appearance of such encampments, when seen from a distance, is exceedingly
singular. The whole atmosphere just above the settlement is darkened with
the immense number of the albatross (mingled with the smaller tribes)
which are continually hovering over it, either going to the ocean or
returning home. At the same time a crowd of penguins are to be observed,
some passing to and fro in the narrow alleys, and some marching with the
military strut so peculiar to them, around the general promenade ground
which encircles the rookery. In short, survey it as we will, nothing can
be more astonishing than the spirit of reflection evinced by these
feathered beings, and nothing surely can be better calculated to elicit
reflection in every well-regulated human intellect.</p>
<p>On the morning after our arrival in Christmas Harbour the chief mate, Mr.
Patterson, took the boats, and (although it was somewhat early in the
season) went in search of seal, leaving the captain and a young relation
of his on a point of barren land to the westward, they having some
business, whose nature I could not ascertain, to transact in the interior
of the island. Captain Guy took with him a bottle, in which was a sealed
letter, and made his way from the point on which he was set on shore
toward one of the highest peaks in the place. It is probable that his
design was to leave the letter on that height for some vessel which he
expected to come after him. As soon as we lost sight of him we proceeded
(Peters and myself being in the mate's boat) on our cruise around the
coast, looking for seal. In this business we were occupied about three
weeks, examining with great care every nook and corner, not only of
Kerguelen's Land, but of the several small islands in the vicinity. Our
labours, however, were not crowned with any important success. We saw a
great many fur seal, but they were exceedingly shy, and with the greatest
exertions, we could only procure three hundred and fifty skins in all. Sea
elephants were abundant, especially on the western coast of the mainland,
but of these we killed only twenty, and this with great difficulty. On the
smaller islands we discovered a good many of the hair seal, but did not
molest them. We returned to the schooner: on the eleventh, where we found
Captain Guy and his nephew, who gave a very bad account of the interior,
representing it as one of the most dreary and utterly barren countries in
the world. They had remained two nights on the island, owing to some
misunderstanding, on the part of the second mate, in regard to the sending
a jollyboat from the schooner to take them off.</p>
<div style="break-after:column;"></div><br />