<h2><SPAN name="Ladak" id="Ladak"></SPAN>Ladak</h2>
<p>Ladak formerly was part of Great Thibet. The powerful invading forces
from the north which traversed the country to conquer Kachmyr, and the
wars of which Ladak was the theatre, not only reduced it to misery, but
eventually subtracted it from the political domination of Lhassa, and
made it the prey of one conqueror after another. The Musselmen, who
seized Kachmyr and Ladak at a remote epoch, converted by force the poor
inhabitants of old Thibet to the faith of Islam. The political existence
of Ladak ended with the annexation of this country to Kachmyr by the
sëiks, which, however, permitted the Ladakians to return to their
ancient beliefs. Two-thirds of the inhabitants took advantage of this
opportunity to rebuild their gonpas and take up their past life anew.
Only the Baltistans remained Musselman schüttes—a sect to which the
conquerors of the country had belonged. They, however, have only
conserved a vague shadow of Islamism, the character of which manifests
itself in their ceremonials and in the
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_36" id="Page_36"></SPAN></span>
polygamy which they practice. Some lamas affirmed to me that they did not
despair of one day bringing them back to the faith of their ancestors.</p>
<p>From the religious point of view Ladak is a dependency of Lhassa, the
capital of Thibet and the place of residence of the Dalai-Lama. In
Lhassa are located the principal Khoutoukhtes, or Supreme Lamas, and the
Chogzots, or administrators. Politically, it is under the authority of
the Maharadja of Kachmyr, who is represented there by a governor.</p>
<p>The inhabitants of Ladak belong to the Chinese-Touranian race, and are
divided into Ladakians and Tchampas. The former lead a sedentary
existence, building villages of two-story houses along the narrow
valleys, are cleanly in their habits, and cultivators of the soil. They
are excessively ugly; thin, with stooping figures and small heads set
deep between their shoulders; their cheek bones salient, foreheads
narrow, eyes black and brilliant, as are those of all the Mongol race;
noses flat, mouths large and thin-lipped; and from their small chins,
very thinly garnished by a few hairs, deep wrinkles extend upward
furrowing their hollow cheeks. To all this, add a close-shaven head with
only a little bristling fringe of hair, and you will have the general
type, not alone of Ladak, but of entire Thibet.</p>
<p>The women are also of small stature, and have exceedingly prominent
cheek bones, but seem to be of much more robust constitution. A healthy
red tinges their cheeks and sympathetic smiles linger upon their lips.
They have good dispositions, joyous inclinations, and are fond of
laughing.</p>
<p>The severity of the climate and rudeness of the country, do not permit
to the Ladakians much latitude in quality and colors of costume. They
wear gowns of simple gray linen and coarse dull-hued clothing of their
own manufacture. The pantaloons of
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_37" id="Page_37"></SPAN></span>
the men only descend to their knees. People in good circumstances wear,
in addition to the ordinary dress,
the "choga," a sort of overcoat which is draped on the back when not
wrapped around the figure. In winter they wear fur caps, with big ear
flaps, and in summer cover their heads with a sort of cloth hood, the
top of which dangles on one side, like a Phrygian cap. Their shoes are
made of felt and covered with leather. A whole arsenal of little things
hangs down from their belts, among which you will find a needle case, a
knife, a pen and inkstand, a tobacco pouch, a pipe, and a diminutive
specimen of the omnipresent prayer-cylinder.</p>
<p>The Thibetan men are generally so lazy, that if a braid of hair happens
to become loose, it is not tressed up again for three months, and when
once a shirt is put on the body, it is not again taken off until it
falls to pieces. Their overcoats are always unclean, and, on the back,
one may contemplate a long oily stripe imprinted by the braid of hair,
which is carefully greased every day. They wash themselves once a year,
but even then do not do so voluntarily, but because compelled by law.
They emit such a terrible stench that one avoids, as much as possible,
being near them.</p>
<p>The Thibetan women, on the contrary, are very fond of cleanliness and
order. They wash themselves daily and as often as may be needful. Short
and clean chemises hide their dazzling white necks. The Thibetan woman
throws on her round shoulders a red jacket, the flaps of which are
covered by tight pantaloons of green or red cloth, made in such a manner
as to puff up and so protect the legs against the cold. She wears
embroidered red half boots, trimmed and lined with fur. A large cloth
petticoat with numerous folds completes her home toilet. Her hair is
arranged in thin braids, to which, by means of pins, a large piece of
floating cloth is attached,—which reminds one of the headdress so
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_38" id="Page_38"></SPAN></span>
common in Italy. Underneath this sort of veil are suspended a variety of
various colored pebbles, coins and pieces of metal. The ears are covered
by flaps made of cloth or fur. A furred sheepskin covers the back, poor
women contenting themselves with a simple plain skin of the animal,
while wealthy ladies wear veritable cloaks, lined with red cloth and
adorned with gold fringes.</p>
<p>The Ladak woman, whether walking in the streets or visiting her
neighbors, always carries upon her back a conical basket, the smaller
end of which is toward the ground. They fill it with the dung of horses
or cows, which constitute the combustible of the country. Every woman
has money of her own, and spends it for jewelry. Generally she
purchases, at a small expense, large pieces of turquoise, which are
added to the <span class='italics'>bizarre</span> ornaments of her headdress. I have seen pieces so
worn which weighed nearly five pounds. The Ladak woman occupies a social
position for which she is envied by all women of the Orient. She is free
and respected. With the exception of some rural work, she passes the
greatest part of her time in visiting. It must, however, be added that
women's gossip is here a perfectly unknown thing.</p>
<p>The settled population of Ladak is engaged in agriculture, but they own
so little land (the share of each may amount to about eight acres) that
the revenue drawn from it is insufficient to provide them with the
barest necessities and does not permit them to pay taxes. Manual
occupations are generally despised. Artisans and musicians form the
lowest class of society. The name by which they are designated is Bem,
and people are very careful not to contract any alliance with them. The
hours of leisure left by rural work are spent in hunting the wild sheep
of Thibet, the skins of which are highly valued in India. The poorest,
<span class='italics'>i.e.</span>, those who have not the means to purchase arms for hunting, hire
themselves as coolies. This is also an occupation of women, who are
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_39" id="Page_39"></SPAN></span>
very capable of enduring arduous toil. They are healthier than their
husbands, whose laziness goes so far that, careless of cold or heat,
they are capable of spending a whole night in the open air on a bed of
stones rather than take the trouble to go to bed.</p>
<p>Polyandry (which I shall treat later more fully) causes the formation of
very large families, who, in common, cultivate their jointly possessed
lands, with the assistance of yaks, zos and zomos (oxen and cows). A
member of a family cannot detach himself from it, and when he dies, his
share reverts to the survivors in common.</p>
<p>They sow but little wheat and the grain is very small, owing to the
severity of the climate. They also harvest barley, which they pulverize
before selling. When work in the field is ended, all male inhabitants go
to gather on the mountain a wild herb called "enoriota," and large thorn
bushes or "dama," which are used as fuel, since combustibles are scarce
in Ladak. You see there neither trees nor gardens, and only
exceptionally thin clumps of willows and poplars grow on the shores of
the rivers. Near the villages are also found some aspen trees; but, on
account of the unfertility of the ground, arboriculture is unknown and
gardening is little successful.</p>
<p>The absence of wood is especially noticeable in the buildings, which are
made of sun-dried bricks, or, more frequently, of stones of medium size
which are agglomerated with a kind of mortar composed of clay and
chopped straw. The houses of the settled inhabitants are two stories
high, their fronts whitewashed, and their window-sashes painted with
lively colors. The flat roof forms a terrace <span class="ins" title="with">which</span> is decorated with
wild flowers, and here, during good weather, the inhabitants spend much
of their time contemplating nature, or turning their prayer-wheels.
Every dwelling-house is composed of many rooms; among them always
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_40" id="Page_40"></SPAN></span> one
of superior size, the walls of which are decorated with superb
fur-skins, and which is reserved for visitors. In the other rooms are
beds and other furniture. Rich people possess, moreover, a special room
filled with all kinds of idols, and set apart as a place of worship.</p>
<p>Life here is very regular. They eat anything attainable, without much
choice; the principal nourishment of the Ladak people, however, being
exceedingly simple. Their breakfast consists of a piece of rye bread. At
dinner, they serve on the table a bowl with meal into which lukewarm
water is stirred with little rods until the mixture assumes the
consistency of thick paste. From this, small portions are scooped out
and eaten with milk. In the evening, bread and tea are served. Meat is a
superfluous luxury. Only the hunters introduce some variety in their
alimentation, by eating the meat of wild sheep, eagles or pheasants,
which are very common in this country.</p>
<p>During the day, on every excuse and opportunity, they drink "tchang," a
kind of pale, unfermented beer.</p>
<p>If it happens that a Ladakian, mounted on a pony (such privileged people
are very rare), goes to seek work in the surrounding country, he
provides himself with a small stock of meal; when dinner time comes, he
descends to a river or spring, mixes with water, in a wooden cup that he
always has with him, some of the meal, swallows the simple refreshment
and washes it down with water.</p>
<p>The Tchampas, or nomads, who constitute the other part of Ladak's
population, are rougher, and much poorer than the settled population.
They are, for the most part, hunters, who completely neglect
agriculture. Although they profess the Buddhistic religion, they never
frequent the cloisters unless in want of meal, which they obtain in
exchange for their venison. They mostly
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_41" id="Page_41"></SPAN></span>
camp in tents on the summits of
the mountains, where the cold is very great. While the properly called
Ladakians are peaceable, very desirous of learning, of an incarnated
laziness, and are never known to tell untruth; the Tchampas, on the
contrary, are very irascible, extremely lively, great liars and profess
a great disdain for the convents.</p>
<p>Among them lives the small population of Khombas, wanderers from the
vicinity of Lhassa, who lead the miserable existence of a troupe of
begging gipsies on the highways. Incapable of any work whatever,
speaking a language not spoken in the country where they beg for their
subsistence, they are the objects of general contempt, and are only
tolerated out of pity for their deplorable condition, when hunger drives
their mendicant bands to seek alms in the villages.</p>
<hr style='width: 45%;' />
<p>Polyandry, which is universally prevalent here, of course interested my
curiosity. This institution is, by the way, not the outcome of Buddha's
doctrines. Polyandry existed long before the advent of Buddha. It
assumed considerable proportions in India, where it constituted one of
the most effective means for checking the growth of a population which
tends to constant increase, an economic danger which is even yet
combatted by the abominable custom of killing newborn female children,
which causes terrible ravages in the child-life of India. The efforts
made by the English in their enactments against the suppression of the
future mothers have proved futile and fruitless. Manu himself
established polyandry as a law, and Buddhist preachers, who had
renounced Brahminism and preached the use of opium, imported this custom
into Ceylon, Thibet, Corea, and the country of the Moguls. For a long
time suppressed in China, polyandry, which flourishes in Thibet and
Ceylon, is also met with among the Kalmonks,
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_42" id="Page_42"></SPAN></span>
between Todas in Southern
India, and Nairs on the coast of Malabar. Traces of this strange
constitution of the family are also to be found with the Tasmanians and
the Irquois Indians in North America.</p>
<p>Polyandry, by the way, has even flourished in Europe, if we may believe
Cæsar, who, in his <span class='italics'>De Bello Gallico</span>, book V., page 17, writes:
"<span class='italics'>Uxores habent deni duodenique inter se communes, et maxime fratres cum
fratribus et parentes cum liberis.</span>"</p>
<p>In view of all this it is impossible to hold any religion responsible
for the existence of the institution of polyandry. In Thibet it can be
explained by motives of an economical nature; the small quantity of
arable land falling to the share of each inhabitant. In order to support
the 1,500,000 inhabitants distributed in Thibet, upon a surface of
1,200,000 square kilometres, the Buddhists were forced to adopt
polyandry. Moreover, each family is bound to enter one of its members in
a religious order. The firstborn is consecrated to a gonpa, which is
<span class='ins' title='inevitablys'>inevitably</span> found upon an elevation, at the entrance of every village.
As soon as the child attains the age of eighteen years, he is entrusted
to the caravans which pass Lhassa, where he remains from eight to
fifteen years as a novice, in one of the gonpas which are near the city.
There he learns to read and write, is taught the religious rites and
studies the sacred parchments written in the Pali language—which
formerly used to be the language of the country of Maguada, where,
according to tradition, Buddha was born.</p>
<p>The oldest brother remaining in a family chooses a wife, who becomes
common to his brothers. The choice of the bride and the nuptial
ceremonies are most rudimentary. When a wife and her husband have
decided upon the marriage of a son, the brother who possesses the right
of choice, pays a visit to a neighboring family in which there is a
marriageable daughter.<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_43" id="Page_43"></SPAN></span></p>
<p>The first and second visits are spent in more or less indifferent
conversations, blended with frequent libations of tchang, and on the
third visit only does the young man declare his intention to take a
wife. Upon this the girl is formally introduced to him. She is generally
not unknown to the wooer, as, in Ladak, women never veil their faces.</p>
<p>A girl cannot be married without her consent. When the young man is
accepted, he takes his bride to his house, and she becomes his wife and
also the wife of all his brothers. A family which has an only son sends
him to a woman who has no more than two or three husbands, and he offers
himself to her as a fourth husband. Such an offer is seldom declined,
and the young man settles in the new family.</p>
<p>The newly married remain with the parents of the husbands, until the
young wife bears her first child. The day after that event, the
grandparents of the infant make over the bulk of their fortune to the
new family, and, abandoning the old home to them, seek other shelter.</p>
<p>Sometimes marriages are contracted between youth who have not reached a
marriageable age, but in such event, the married couple are made to live
apart, until they have attained and even passed the age required. An
unmarried girl who becomes <span class='italics'>enceinte</span>, far from being exposed to the
scorn of every one, is shown the highest respect; for she is
demonstrated fruitful, and men eagerly seek her in marriage. A wife has
the unquestioned right of having an unlimited number of husbands and
lovers. If she likes a young man, she takes him home, announces that he
has been chosen by her as a "jingtuh" (a lover), and endows him with all
the personal rights of a husband, which situation is accepted by her
temporarily supplanted husbands with a certain philosophic pleasure,
which is the more pronounced if their wife has proved sterile during the
three first years of her marriage.<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_44" id="Page_44"></SPAN></span></p>
<p>They certainly have here not even a vague idea of jealousy. The
Thibetan's blood is too cold to know love, which, for him, would be
almost an anachronism; if indeed he were not conscious that the
sentiment of the entire community would be against him, as a flagrant
violator of popular usage and established rights, in restraining the
freedom of the women. The selfish enjoyment of love would be, in their
eyes, an unjustifiable luxury.</p>
<p>In case of a husband's absence, his place may be offered to a bachelor
or a widower. The latter are here in the minority, since the wife
generally survives her feeble husbands. Sometimes a Buddhist traveller,
whom his affairs bring to the village, is chosen for this office. A
husband who travels, or seeks for work in the neighboring country, at
every stop takes advantage of his co-religionists' hospitality, who
offer him their own wives. The husbands of a sterile woman exert
themselves to find opportunities for hospitality, which may happily
eventuate in a change in her condition, that they may be made happy
fathers.</p>
<p>The wife enjoys the general esteem, is ever of a cheerful disposition,
takes part in everything that is going on, goes and comes without any
restriction, anywhere and everywhere she pleases, with the exception of
the principal prayer-room of the monastery, entrance into which is
formally prohibited to her.</p>
<p>Children know only their mother, and do not feel the least affection for
their fathers, for the simple reason that they have so many. Without
approving polyandry, I could not well blame Thibet for this institution,
since without it, the population would prodigiously increase. Famine and
misery would fall upon the whole nation, with all the sinister
<span class='italics'>sequellæ</span> of murder and theft, crimes so far absolutely unknown in the
whole country.<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_45" id="Page_45"></SPAN></span></p>
<hr style="width: 65%;" />
<div style="break-after:column;"></div><br />