<h2><SPAN name="page322"></SPAN>LETTER XLIII.</h2>
<p class="gutsumm">Pleasant Prospects—A Miserable
Disappointment—Caught in a Typhoon—A Dense
Fog—Alarmist Rumours—A Welcome at
Tôkiyô—The Last of the Mutineers.</p>
<p style="text-align: right">H. B. M.’s <span class="smcap">Legation</span>, <span class="smcap">Yedo</span>,
<i>September</i> 21.</p>
<p>A <span class="smcap">placid</span> sea, which after much
disturbance had sighed itself to rest, and a high, steady
barometer promised a fifty hours’ passage to Yokohama, and
when Dr. and Mrs. Hepburn and I left Hakodaté, by
moonlight, on the night of the 14th, as the only passengers in
the <i>Hiogo Maru</i>, Captain Moore, her genial, pleasant
master, congratulated us on the rapid and delightful passage
before us, and we separated at midnight with many projects for
pleasant intercourse and occupation.</p>
<p>But a more miserable voyage I never made, and it was not until
the afternoon of the 17th that we crawled forth from our cabins
to speak to each other. On the second day out, great heat
came on with suffocating closeness, the mercury rose to 85°,
and in lat. 38° 0′ N. and long. 141°
30′ E. we encountered a “typhoon,” otherwise a
“cyclone,” otherwise a “revolving
hurricane,” which lasted for twenty-five hours, and
“jettisoned” the cargo. Captain Moor has given
me a very interesting diagram of it, showing the attempts which
he made to avoid its vortex, through which our course would have
taken us, and to keep as much outside it as possible. The
typhoon was succeeded by a dense fog, so that our fifty-hour
passage became seventy-two hours, and we landed at Yokohama near
upon midnight of the 17th, to find traces of much disaster, the
whole low-lying country flooded, the railway between Yokohama and
the capital impassable, great anxiety about the rice crop, the
air full of alarmist rumours, and paper money, which was about
par when I arrived in May, at a discount of <SPAN name="page323"></SPAN>
<SPAN href="images/p323b.jpg"><ANTIMG class='clearcenter' alt="Entrance to Shrine of Seventh Shôgun, Shiba, Tôkiyô" title= "Entrance to Shrine of Seventh Shôgun, Shiba, Tôkiyô" src="images/p323s.jpg" /></SPAN><SPAN name="page324"></SPAN>13
per cent! In the early part of this year (1880) it has
touched 42 per cent.</p>
<p>Late in the afternoon the railroad was re-opened, and I came
here with Mr. Wilkinson, glad to settle down to a period of rest
and ease under this hospitable roof. The afternoon was
bright and sunny, and Tôkiyô was looking its
best. The long lines of <i>yashikis</i> looked handsome,
the castle moat was so full of the gigantic leaves of the lotus,
that the water was hardly visible, the grass embankments of the
upper moat were a brilliant green, the pines on their summits
stood out boldly against the clear sky, the hill on which the
Legation stands looked dry and cheerful, and, better than all, I
had a most kindly welcome from those who have made this house my
home in a strange land.</p>
<p>Tôkiyô is tranquil, that is, it is disturbed only
by fears for the rice crop, and by the fall in
<i>satsu</i>. The military mutineers have been tried,
popular rumour says tortured, and fifty-two have been shot.
The summer has been the worst for some years, and now dark heat,
moist heat, and nearly ceasless rain prevail. People have
been “rained up” in their summer quarters.
“Surely it will change soon,” people say, and they
have said the same thing for three months.</p>
<p style="text-align: right">I. L. B.</p>
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