<SPAN name="startofbook"></SPAN>
<h1>Domestic Manners of the Americans</h1>
<h2 class="no-break">by Fanny Trollope</h2>
<p class="center">
First published in 1832</p>
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<h2>Contents</h2>
<table summary="" >
<tr>
<td> <SPAN href="#chap01">CHAPTER I. </SPAN></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td> <SPAN href="#chap02">CHAPTER II. </SPAN></td>
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<tr>
<td> <SPAN href="#chap03">CHAPTER III. </SPAN></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td> <SPAN href="#chap04">CHAPTER IV. </SPAN></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td> <SPAN href="#chap05">CHAPTER V. </SPAN></td>
</tr>
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<td> <SPAN href="#chap06">CHAPTER VI. </SPAN></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td> <SPAN href="#chap07">CHAPTER VII. </SPAN></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td> <SPAN href="#chap08">CHAPTER VIII. </SPAN></td>
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<tr>
<td> <SPAN href="#chap09">CHAPTER IX. </SPAN></td>
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<td> <SPAN href="#chap10">CHAPTER X. </SPAN></td>
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<td> <SPAN href="#chap11">CHAPTER XI. </SPAN></td>
</tr>
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<td> <SPAN href="#chap12">CHAPTER XII. </SPAN></td>
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<td> <SPAN href="#chap13">CHAPTER XIII. </SPAN></td>
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<td> <SPAN href="#chap14">CHAPTER XIV. </SPAN></td>
</tr>
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<td> <SPAN href="#chap15">CHAPTER XV. </SPAN></td>
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<td> <SPAN href="#chap16">CHAPTER XVI. </SPAN></td>
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<td> <SPAN href="#chap17">CHAPTER XVII. </SPAN></td>
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<td> <SPAN href="#chap18">CHAPTER XVIII. </SPAN></td>
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<td> <SPAN href="#chap19">CHAPTER XIX. </SPAN></td>
</tr>
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<td> <SPAN href="#chap20">CHAPTER XX. </SPAN></td>
</tr>
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<td> <SPAN href="#chap21">CHAPTER XXI. </SPAN></td>
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<td> <SPAN href="#chap22">CHAPTER XXII. </SPAN></td>
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<td> <SPAN href="#chap23">CHAPTER XXIII. </SPAN></td>
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<td> <SPAN href="#chap24">CHAPTER XXIV. </SPAN></td>
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<td> <SPAN href="#chap25">CHAPTER XXV. </SPAN></td>
</tr>
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<td> <SPAN href="#chap26">CHAPTER XXVI. </SPAN></td>
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<td> <SPAN href="#chap27">CHAPTER XXVII. </SPAN></td>
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<td> <SPAN href="#chap28">CHAPTER XXVIII. </SPAN></td>
</tr>
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<td> <SPAN href="#chap29">CHAPTER XXIX. </SPAN></td>
</tr>
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<td> <SPAN href="#chap30">CHAPTER XXX. </SPAN></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td> <SPAN href="#chap31">CHAPTER XXXI. </SPAN></td>
</tr>
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<td> <SPAN href="#chap32">CHAPTER XXXII. </SPAN></td>
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<td> <SPAN href="#chap33">CHAPTER XXXIII. </SPAN></td>
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<td> <SPAN href="#chap34">CHAPTER XXXIV. </SPAN></td>
</tr>
</table>
<h2><SPAN name="chap01"></SPAN>CHAPTER I</h2>
<p class="letter">
Entrance of the Mississippi—Balize</p>
<p>On the 4th of November, 1827, I sailed from London, accompanied by my son and
two daughters; and after a favourable, though somewhat tedious voyage, arrived
on Christmas-day at the mouth of the Mississippi.</p>
<p>The first indication of our approach to land was the appearance of this mighty
river pouring forth its muddy mass of waters, and mingling with the deep blue
of the Mexican Gulf. The shores of this river are so utterly flat, that no
object upon them is perceptible at sea, and we gazed with pleasure on the muddy
ocean that met us, for it told us we were arrived, and seven weeks of sailing
had wearied us; yet it was not without a feeling like regret that we passed
from the bright blue waves, whose varying aspect had so long furnished our
chief amusement, into the murky stream which now received us.</p>
<p>Large flights of pelicans were seen standing upon the long masses of mud which
rose above the surface of the waters, and a pilot came to guide us over the
bar, long before any other indication of land was visible.</p>
<p>I never beheld a scene so utterly desolate as this entrance of the Mississippi.
Had Dante seen it, he might have drawn images of another Bolgia from its
horrors. One only object rears itself above the eddying waters; this is the
mast of a vessel long since wrecked in attempting to cross the bar, and it
still stands, a dismal witness of the destruction that has been, and a boding
prophet of that which is to come.</p>
<p>By degrees bulrushes of enormous growth become visible, and a few more miles of
mud brought us within sight of a cluster of huts called the Balize, by far the
most miserable station that I ever saw made the dwelling of man, but I was told
that many families of pilots and fishermen lived there.</p>
<p>For several miles above its mouth, the Mississippi presents no objects more
interesting than mud banks, monstrous bulrushes, and now and then a huge
crocodile luxuriating in the slime. Another circumstance that gives to this
dreary scene an aspect of desolation, is the incessant appearance of vast
quantities of drift wood, which is ever finding its way to the different mouths
of the Mississippi. Trees of enormous length, sometimes still bearing their
branches, and still oftener their uptorn roots entire, the victims of the
frequent hurricane, come floating down the stream. Sometimes several of these,
entangled together, collect among their boughs a quantity of floating rubbish,
that gives the mass the appearance of a moving island, bearing a forest, with
its roots mocking the heavens; while the dishonoured branches lash the tide in
idle vengeance: this, as it approaches the vessel, and glides swiftly past,
looks like the fragment of a world in ruins.</p>
<p>As we advanced, however, we were cheered, notwithstanding the season, by the
bright tints of southern vegetation. The banks continue invariably flat, but a
succession of planless villas, sometimes merely a residence, and sometimes
surrounded by their sugar grounds and negro huts, varied the scene. At no one
point was there an inch of what painters call a second distance; and for the
length of one hundred and twenty miles, from the Balize to New Orleans, and one
hundred miles above the town, the land is defended from the encroachments of
the river by a high embankment which is called the Levee; without which the
dwellings would speedily disappear, as the river is evidently higher than the
banks would be without it. When we arrived, there had been constant rains, and
of long continuance, and this appearance was, therefore, unusually striking,
giving to “this great natural feature” the most unnatural
appearance imaginable; and making evident, not only that man had been busy
there, but that even the mightiest works of nature might be made to bear his
impress; it recalled, literally, Swift’s mock heroic,</p>
<p class="poem">
“Nature must give way to art;”</p>
<p>yet, she was looking so mighty, and so unsubdued all the time, that I could not
help fancying she would some day take the matter into her own hands again, and
if so, farewell to New Orleans.</p>
<p>It is easy to imagine the total want of beauty in such a landscape; but yet the
form and hue of the trees and plants, so new to us, added to the long privation
we had endured of all sights and sounds of land, made even these swampy shores
seem beautiful. We were, however, impatient to touch as well as see the land;
but the navigation from the Balize to New Orleans is difficult and tedious, and
the two days that it occupied appeared longer than any we had passed on board.</p>
<p>In truth, to those who have pleasure in contemplating the phenomena of nature,
a sea voyage may endure many weeks without wearying. Perhaps some may think
that the first glance of ocean and of sky shew all they have to offer; nay,
even that that first glance may suggest more of dreariness than sublimity; but
to me, their variety appeared endless, and their beauty unfailing. The attempt
to describe scenery, even where the objects are prominent and tangible, is very
rarely successful; but where the effect is so subtile and so varying, it must
be vain. The impression, nevertheless, is perhaps deeper than any other; I
think it possible I may forget the sensations with which I watched the long
course of the gigantic Mississippi; the Ohio and the Potomac may mingle and be
confounded with other streams in my memory, I may even recall with difficulty
the blue outline of the Alleghany mountains, but never, while I remember any
thing, can I forget the first and last hour of light on the Atlantic.</p>
<p>The ocean, however, and all its indescribable charm, no longer surrounded us;
we began to feel that our walk on the quarter-deck was very like the exercise
of an ass in a mill; that our books had lost half their pages, and that the
other half were known by rote; that our beef was very salt, and our biscuits
very hard; in short, that having studied the good ship, Edward, from stem to
stern till we knew the name of every sail, and the use of every pulley, we had
had enough of her, and as we laid down, head to head, in our tiny beds for the
last time, I exclaimed with no small pleasure,</p>
<p class="poem">
“Tomorrow to fresh fields and pastures new.”</p>
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