<h2><SPAN name="XXI" id="XXI"></SPAN>XXI</h2>
<p>Stephen and Nevill Caird returned from Tlemcen
to Algiers, hoping for news of Victoria, but there
was none; and after two days they left for Grand
Kabylia.</p>
<p>The prophetic birds at Mansourah had flown in a south-easterly
direction, but when Stephen and Nevill started in
search of Josette's maid Mouni, they turned full east, their
faces looking towards the dark heights of Kabylia. It was not
Victoria they hoped to find there, however, or Saidee her sister,
but only a hint as to their next move. Nevertheless,
Nevill was superstitious about the birds, and said to Stephen
when the car had run them out of Algiers, past Maison Carré,
into open country: "Isn't it queer how the birds follow us?
I never saw so many before. They're always with us. It's
just as if they'd passed on word, the way chupatties are passed
on in India, eh? Or maybe Josette has told her protegées
to look after us."</p>
<p>And Stephen smiled, for Nevill's superstitions were engaging,
rather than repulsive; and his quaintnesses were endearing
him more and more to the man who had just taken up the
dropped thread of friendship after eight or nine years. What
an odd fellow Nevill was! Stephen thought, indulgently. No
wonder he was worshipped by his servants, and even his
chauffeur. No wonder Lady MacGregor adored her nephew,
though treating him as if he were a little boy!</p>
<p>One of Nevill's idiosyncrasies, after arranging everything
to fit a certain plan, was to rush off at the last minute and do
something entirely different. Last night—the night before<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_201" id="Page_201"></SPAN></span>
starting for Grand Kabylia—he had begged Stephen to be ready
by eight, at which time the car was ordered. At nine—having
sat up till three o'clock writing letters, and then having
visited a lately imported gazelle in its quarters—Nevill
was still in his bath. At length he arrived on the scene, beaming,
with a sulky chameleon in his pocket, and flew about
giving last directions, until he suddenly discovered that there
was a violent hurry, whereupon he began to be boyishly peevish
with the chauffeur for not getting off an hour ago. No sooner
had the car started, however, than he fell into a serious mood,
telling Stephen of many things which he had thought out in the
night—things which might be helpful in finding Victoria.
He had been lying awake, it seemed, brooding on this subject,
and it had occurred to him that, if Mouni should prove a disappointment,
they might later discover something really useful
by going to the annual ball at the Governor's palace. This festivity
had been put off, on account of illness in the chief official's
family; but it would take place in a fortnight or so now.
All the great Aghas and Caïds of the south would be there, and
as Nevill knew many of them, he might be able to get definite
information concerning Ben Halim. As for Saidee—to
hear of Ben Halim was to hear of her. And then it was, in
the midst of describing the ball, and the important men who
would attend, that Nevill suddenly broke off to be superstitious
about birds.</p>
<p>It was true that the birds were everywhere! little greenish
birds flitting among the trees; larger grey-brown birds flying
low; fairy-like blue and yellow birds that circled round the
car as it ran east towards the far, looming mountains of the
Djurdjura; larks that spouted music like a fountain of jewels
as they soared into the quivering blue; and great, stately storks,
sitting in their nests on tall trees or tops of poles, silhouetted
against the sky as they gazed indifferently down at the automobile.</p>
<p>"Josette would tell us it's splendid luck to see storks on<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_202" id="Page_202"></SPAN></span>
their nests," said Nevill. "Arabs think they bring good fortune
to places. That's why people cut off the tops of the trees and
make nests for them, so they can bless the neighbourhood and
do good to the crops. Storks have no such menial work here
as bringing babies. Arab babies have to come as best they
can—sent into the world anyhow; for storks are men who
didn't do their religious duties in the most approved style, so
they have to revisit the world next time in the form of beneficent
birds."</p>
<p>But Nevill did not want to answer questions about storks
and their habits. He had tired of them in a moment, and
was passionately interested in mules. "There ought to be
an epic written about the mules of North Africa!" he exclaimed.
"I tell you, it's a great subject. Look at those poor brave
chaps struggling to pull carts piled up with casks of beastly
Algerian wine, through that sea of mud, which probably goes
all the way through to China. Aren't they splendid? Wait till
you've been in this country as long as I have, and you'll respect
mules as I do, from army mules down to the lowest dregs of the
mule kingdom. I don't ask you to love them—and neither do
they. But how they work here in Africa—and never a groan!
They go on till they drop. And I don't believe half of them ever
get anything to eat. Some day I'm going to start a Rest Farm
for tired mules. I shall pay well for them. A man I know
did write a pæan of praise for mules. I believe I'll have it
translated into Arabic, and handed about as a leaflet. These
natives are good to their horses, because they believe they
have souls, but they treat their mules like the dirt under their
feet." And Nevill began quoting here and there a verse or a
line he remembered of the "mule music," chanting in time
to the throbbing of the motor.</p>
<div class="poem"><p>
"Key A minor, measure common,<br/>
One and two and three and four and—<br/>
Every hoof-beat half a second<br/>
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_203" id="Page_203"></SPAN></span>Every hoof-beat linked with heart-beat,<br/>
Every heart-beat nearer bursting.<br/>
Andantino sostenuto:<br/>
In the downpour or the dryness,<br/>
Hottest summer, coldest winter;<br/>
Sick and sore and old and feeble,<br/>
Hourly, hourly; daily, daily,<br/>
From the sunrise to the setting;<br/>
From the setting to the sunrise<br/>
Scarce a break in all the circle<br/>
For the rough and scanty eating,<br/>
For the scant and muddy drinking,<br/>
For the fitful, fearful resting,<br/>
For the master haunted-sleeping.<br/>
Dreams in dark of God's far heaven<br/>
Tempo primo; tempo sempre."<br/></p>
</div>
<p>And so, through pools of wild flowers and the blood of poppies,
their road led to wild mountain scenery, then into the
embrace of the Djurdjura mountains themselves—evil, snow-splashed,
sterile-seeming mountains, until the car had passed
the fortified town of Tizi Ouzou, an overgrown village, whose
name Stephen thought like a drunken term of endearment.
It was market-day there, and the long street was so full of
Kabyles dressed apparently in low-necked woollen bags, of
soldiers in uniform, of bold-eyed, scantily-clad children, and of
dyed sheep and goats, that the car had to pass at a walk. Nevill
bought a good deal of Kabyle jewellery, necklaces and long earrings,
or boxes enamelled in crude greens and reds, blues and
yellows. Not that he had not already more than he knew what
to do with; but he could not resist the handsome unveiled girls,
the wretched old women, or pretty, half-naked children who
offered the work of the neighbouring hill villages, or family
heirlooms. Sometimes he saw eyes which made him think of
Josette's; but then, all beautiful things that he saw reminded
him of her. She was an obsession. But, for a wonder, he had
taken Stephen's advice in Tlemcen and had not proposed
again. He was still marvelling at his own strength of mind,
and asking himself if, after all, he had been wise.<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_204" id="Page_204"></SPAN></span></p>
<p>After Tizi Ouzou the mountains were no longer sterile-seeming.
The road coiled up and up snakily, between rows
of leering cactus; and far below the densely wooded heights
lay lovely plains through which a great river wandered. There
was a homely smell of mint, and the country did not look to
Stephen like the Africa he had imagined. All the hill-slopes
were green with the bright green of fig trees and almonds,
even at heights so great that the car wallowed among clouds.
This steep road was the road to Fort National—the "thorn
in the eye of Kabylia," which pierces so deeply that Kabylia
may writhe, but revolt no more. Already it was almost as if
the car had brought them into another world. The men who
occasionally emerged from the woolly white blankets of the
clouds, were men of a very different type from the mild Kabyles
of the plains they had met trooping along towards Algiers in
search of work.</p>
<p>These were brave, upstanding men, worthy of their fathers
who revolted against French rule and could not be conquered
until that thorn, Fort National, was planted deeply in heart and
eye. Some were fair, and even red-haired, which would have
surprised Stephen if he had not heard from Nevill that in old
days the Christian slaves used to escape from Algiers and seek
refuge in Kabylia, where they were treated as free men, and no
questions were asked.</p>
<p>Without Fort National, it seemed to Stephen that this strange
Berber people would never have been forced to yield; for looking
down from mountain heights as the motor sped on, it was
as if he looked into a vast and intricate maze of valleys, and on
each curiously pointed peak clung a Kabyle village that seemed
to be inlaid in the rock like separate bits of scarlet enamel.
It was the low house-roofs which gave this effect, for unlike
the Arabs, whom the ancient Berber lords of the soil regard
with scorn, the Kabyles build their dwellings of stone, roofed
with red tiles.</p>
<p>This was a wild, tormented world, broken into a hun<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_205" id="Page_205"></SPAN></span>dred
sharp mountain ridges which seemed to cut the sky,
because between the high peaks and the tangled skein of far-away
villages surged foaming seas of cloud, which appeared to
separate high, bright peaks from shadowed vales, by incredible
distances. As far as the eye could travel with utmost straining,
away to the dark, imposing background of the Djurdjura
range, billowed ridges and ravines, ravines and ridges, each
pointing pinnacle or razor-shelf adorned with its coral-red
hamlet, like a group of poisonous fungi, or the barnacles on a
ship's steep side. Such an extraordinary landscape Stephen
had never imagined, or seen except on a Japanese fan; and it
struck him that the scene actually did resemble quaint
prints picturing half-real, half-imaginary scenes in old
Japan.</p>
<p>"What a country for war! What a country for defence!" he
said to himself, as Nevill's yellow car sped along the levels of
narrow ridges that gave, on either hand, vertical views far
down to fertile valleys, rushed into clouds of weeping rain, or
out into regions of sunlight and rainbows.</p>
<p>It was three o'clock when they reached Michélet, but they had
not stopped for luncheon, as both were in haste to find Mouni:
and Mouni's village was just beyond Michélet. Since Fort
National, they had been in the heart of Grand Kabylia; and
Michélet was even more characteristic of this strange mountain
country, so different from transplanted Arabia below.</p>
<p>Not an Arab lived here, in the long, straggling town, built
on the crest of a high ridge. Not a minaret tower pointed
skyward. The Kabyle place of worship had a roof of little
more height or importance than those that clustered round it.
The men were in striped brown gandourahs of camel's hair;
the lovely unveiled women were wrapped in woollen foutahs
dyed red or yellow, blue or purple, and from their little ears
heavy rings dangled. The blue tattoo marks on their brown
cheeks and foreheads, which in forgotten times had been Christian
crosses, gave great value to their enormous, kohl-encircled<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_206" id="Page_206"></SPAN></span>
eyes; and their teeth were very white as they smiled boldly, yet
proudly, at Stephen and Nevill.</p>
<p>There was a flight of steps to mount from the car to the hotel,
and as the two men climbed the stairs they turned to look,
across a profound chasm, to the immense mass of the Djurdjura
opposite Michélet's thin ledge. From their point of view,
it was like the Jungfrau, as Stephen had seen it from Mürren,
on one of his few trips to Switzerland. Somehow, those little
conventional potterings of his seemed pitiable now, they had
been so easy to do, so exactly what other people did.</p>
<p>It was long past ordinary luncheon time, and hunger constrained
the two men to eat before starting out to find the
village where Mouni and her people lived. It was so small
a hamlet, that Nevill, who knew Kabylia well, had never heard
of it until Josette Soubise wrote the name for him on one of
her own cards. The landlord of the hotel at Michélet gave
rapid and fluent directions how to go, saying that the distance
was two miles, but as the way was a steep mountain path,
les messieurs must go on foot.</p>
<p>Immediately after lunching they started, armed with a
present for the bride; a watch encrusted with tiny brilliants,
which, following Josette's advice, they had chosen as the one
thing of all others calculated to win the Kabyle girl's heart.
"It will be like a fairy dream to her to have a watch of her own,"
Josette had said. "Her friends will be dying of envy, and she
will enjoy that. Oh, she will search her soul and tell you
everything she knows, if you but give her a watch!"</p>
<p>For a little way the friends walked along the wild and beautiful
road, which from Michélet plunges down the mountains
toward Bougie and the sea; but soon they came to the narrow,
ill-defined footpath described by the landlord. It led
straight up a steep shoulder of rock which at its highest part
became a ledge; and when they had climbed to the top, at a
distance they could see a cluster of red roofs apparently falling
down a precipice, at the far end.<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_207" id="Page_207"></SPAN></span></p>
<p>Here and there were patches of snow, white as fallen lily-petals
on the pansy-coloured earth. Looking down was like
looking from a high wave upon a vast sea of other waves, each
wave carrying on its apex a few bits of broken red mosaic, which
were Kabyle roofs; and the pale sky was streaked with ragged
violet clouds exactly like the sky and clouds painted on screens
by Japanese artists.</p>
<p>They met not a soul as they walked, but while the village
was still far away and unreal, the bark of guns, fired quickly
one after the other, jarred their ears, and the mountain wind
brought a crying of raïtas, African clarionettes, and the dull,
yet fierce beat of tom-toms.</p>
<p>"Now I know why we've met no one," said Nevill. "The
wedding feast's still on, and everybody who is anybody at
Yacoua, is there. You know, if you're an Arab, or even a
Kabyle, it takes you a week to be married properly, and you
have high jinks every day: music and dancing and eating, and
if you've money enough, above all you make the powder
speak. Mouni's people are doing her well. What a
good thing we've got the watch! Even with Josette's
introduction we mightn't have been able to come near
the bride, unless we had something to offer worth her
having."</p>
<p>The mountain village of Yacoua had no suburbs, no outlying
houses. The one-story mud huts with their pointed red
roofs, utterly unlike Arab dwellings, were huddled together,
with only enough distance between for a man and a mule or a
donkey to pass. The best stood in pairs, with a walled yard
between; and as Stephen and Nevill searched anxiously for
some one to point out the home of Mouni, from over a wall
which seemed to be running down the mountain-side, came
a white puff of smoke and a strident bang, then more, one after
the other. Again the wailing of the raïta began, and there
was no longer any need to ask the way.</p>
<p>"That's where the party is—in that yard," said Nevill,<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_208" id="Page_208"></SPAN></span>
beginning to be excited. "Now, what sort of reception will
they give us? That's the next question."</p>
<p>"Can't we tell, the first thing, that we've come from Algiers
with a present for the bride?" suggested Stephen.</p>
<p>"We can if they understand Arabic," Nevill answered.
"But the Kabyle lingo's quite different—Berber, or something
racy of the soil. I ought to have brought Mohammed
to interpret."</p>
<p>So steeply did the yard between the low houses run downhill,
that, standing at the top of a worn path like a seam in
some old garment, the two Europeans could look over the mud
wall. Squalid as were the mud huts and the cattle-yard connecting
them, the picture framed in the square enclosure blazed
with colour. It was barbaric, and beautiful in its savagery.</p>
<p>Squatting on the ground, with the last rank against the house
wall, were several rows of women, all unveiled, their uncovered
arms jewelled to the elbows, embracing their knees. The afternoon
sunlight shone on their ceremonial finery, setting fire to
the red, blue and green enamel of their necklaces, their huge
hoop earrings and the jewelled silver chains pinned to their
scarlet or yellow head-wrappings, struck out strange gleams
from the flat, round brooches which fastened their gaily striped
robes on their shoulders, and turned their great dark eyes into
brown topazes. Twenty or thirty men, dressed in their best
burnouses, draped over new gandourahs, their heads swathed in
clean white muslin turbans, sat on the opposite side of the court,
watching the "powder play" furnished by two tall, handsome
boys, who handled with delicate grace and skill old-fashioned,
long-muzzled guns inlaid with coral and silver, heirlooms perhaps,
and of some value even to antiquaries.</p>
<p>While the powder spoke, nobody had a thought for anything
else. All eyes were upon the boys with the guns, only travelling
upward in ecstasy to watch the puffs of smoke that
belched out round and white as fat snowballs. Then, when
the music burst forth again, and a splendidly handsome young<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_209" id="Page_209"></SPAN></span>
Kabyle woman ran forward to begin the wild dance of the body
and of the hands—dear to the mountain men as to the nomads
of the desert—every one was at first absorbed in admiration
of her movements. But suddenly a child (one of a dozen in
a row in front of all the women) tired of the show, less amusing
to him than the powder play, and looking up, saw the two
Roumis on the hill behind the wall. He nudged his neighbour,
and the neighbour, who happened to be a little girl, followed
with her eyes the upward nod of his head. So the news went
round that strangers had come uninvited to the wedding-feast,
and men began to frown and women to whisper, while the
dancer lost interest in her own tinklings and genuflections.</p>
<p>It was time for the intruders to make it known that business
of some sort, not idle curiosity, had brought them on the scene,
and Nevill stepped forward, holding out the visiting card given
him by Josette, and the crimson velvet case containing the
watch which Stephen had bought in Algiers.<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_210" id="Page_210"></SPAN></span></p>
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