<h3>SOCIETY IN ALASKA</h3>
<p>The weather had changed during the night; and as the two friends stepped
on deck the following morning a chill and cutting wind met them from the
north. Away above them towered the mountains, their peaks dazzling white
against the sky. Behind them, to the south, was the Lynn Canal, walled
with mountains. Before them were mountains, and yet more mountains. The
cluster of tents and hastily constructed buildings, resting on a few
square miles of gravel flats—comprising the town of Skagway—were
robbed of any importance by the great uplifting walls of rock.</p>
<p>As they stood a voice hailed them. "Is this Skagway?" It was Mr.
Muggsley who spoke.</p>
<p>"I fancy so," said John; "better ask the purser—here he comes."</p>
<p>"Do we have to climb those mountains to get to the Klondike?"</p>
<p>"Yes."<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</SPAN></span></p>
<p>"But where is the White Pass?"</p>
<p>"There." The purser pointed to the mouth of a valley, which soon
appeared blocked by a mighty mountain.</p>
<p>"And that is the White Pass?"</p>
<p>"It is."</p>
<p>"Say, purser, is that berth I had taken for the trip down again? If not,
save it for me. I guess I'm wanted back in I-dee-ho."</p>
<p>Mr. Muggsley, the big man, the strong man, "Big Jack," as his friends
called him, was suddenly possessed of "cold feet." The great uplifting
mountains with their glittering peaks flung to heaven had quickened the
cowardice of his craven soul.</p>
<p>Berwick and his comrade struggled ashore through the rushing
freight-handlers and piled-up supplies. The freight which came from the
Canadian port, Vancouver, had to be passed by the United States Customs,
and the officers seemed few. There was a method of overcoming the
Customs—by employing a "convoy," an official of the United States
Customs, to escort the goods across the narrow strip into Canadian
territory again. John made inquiries, and addressed a fellow in a wild
garb, bespeaking a resident.</p>
<p>"Pay the duty, partner! These escort fellows are a bunch of grafters!
They ain't no credit to<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</SPAN></span> the United States, I can tell you. Yes, pay
duty, and hand an officer a ten-dollar bill on the side, or they'll keep
you here a week, you bet!"</p>
<p>John decided to pay the duty. The convoy would cost $5.00 per day and
expenses. He made an effort to get his goods passed, but without
success—till he paid the ten-dollar bribe. George did the same. John
did not like bribery; but—what else could he do?</p>
<p>It was afternoon ere they got through; and as they gained the town, a
rough board-building with a great white cloth sign painted on
it—"Restaurant, meals 50 cents"—met their gaze from the head of the
wharf. Other buildings of similar character composed generally this
section of the town, so they walked into the first.</p>
<p>It was a box of a place, as unfinished internally as externally. A dozen
or so men, perched on high stools, were leaning against a board counter
covered with white oilcloth. Behind the counter stood a woman and a
girl; a range, where the chef was operating, at their back. A board
partition divided off a sleeping apartment. The curtain that gave the
room privacy was but half drawn. Articles of clothing, trunks, and boxes
were strewn in disorder on the floor.</p>
<p>"Soup?" queried the lady as they took their seats. The cook filled two
flat tin plates with a watery solution of tomatoes and rice. This they<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</SPAN></span>
attacked. When the soup was finished two other tin plates were handed
them, laden with cubical chunks of beef and gravy. Dishes of potatoes
and boiled beans, with bread and butter in tin bowls, were lined upon
the counter for each man to help himself from. At the end of the second
course a plate, bearing a quarter section of sickly-looking apple-pie,
was slid over to each.</p>
<p>The old lady presiding wore the smile of prosperity, and looked
communicative, so John opened conversation. "Been in Skagway long?"</p>
<p>"Just a month."</p>
<p>"Doing well?"</p>
<p>"Sure thing! feed about three hundred people a day. Don't care if the
rush never lets up."</p>
<p>"You've got a gold-mine here without the trouble of going to Dawson."</p>
<p>"Sure!—that is if Soapy don't put the whole town out of business. He
makes the saloons and gambling-halls pay him royalty now, besides
running shows himself; and I guess he'll be after us soon to make us
anti-up too."</p>
<p>"I thought Alaska was a prohibition territory, no whisky sold here."</p>
<p>"Yes, that's what they say back East; but when you get up town you'll
find every second place a saloon with all the hootch you want to drink,
or have money to pay for."</p>
<p>"But how do they get the whisky?"<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</SPAN></span></p>
<p>"Oh, that's easy enough. The hootch is consigned through to the Canadian
side in bond; but when it is landed here they drill a hole in the barrel
and take out the whisky. They refill the barrel with water, and it is
packed over the summit."</p>
<p>"But it costs thirty cents a pound to put the water over the summit!"</p>
<p>"That don't matter—with whisky fifty cents a glass over the bar."</p>
<p>"Don't the officers know this is going on?"</p>
<p>"Sure thing they do; but they 'stand in. There is no graft like a whisky
graft."</p>
<p>"Stand in" and "graft"!—the two Australians felt they knew the meaning
of the terms, but they had yet to grasp how deep the meaning of
"standing in" and "grafting," as understood by officialdom in Alaska and
the Yukon, could be.</p>
<p>Berwick and his friend ate their pie, and departed to see the sights.</p>
<p>The main street of the town ran due north and south, and was lined with
tents and buildings, finished and under construction. The street was
devoid of snow, except in patches here and there; the ever-persistent
wind from the north having generally swept the gravel clean. Sleighs,
drawn by dogs or horses, passed smoothly over the ice, but shrieked in
protest against the stone. Dogs and horses seemed everywhere in that
rush<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</SPAN></span> of fifty thousand men. No man could enter the Yukon without a
year's provisions, which meant that he must transport at least a
thousand pounds in every case.</p>
<p>Along the streets vehicles were waiting to transport vast stores of
supplies to White Pass City, twelve miles distant; after which dog-teams
alone, or pack-animals, or the labour of the human animal, were
necessary. Some pack-horses, mules, and burroes were passing down the
streets to their stables, after having carried up their loads.</p>
<p>Men in outlandish garb were walking about; many wore what appeared to be
night-shirts coming down to their knees, with hoods attached, and rings
of fur around the wrists and the face of the hood. Some of the peculiar
garments were made of blue drill, others even of bed-ticking, showing
its dingy stripes. This garment was the parka.</p>
<p>Berwick and Bruce entered the Pack-Train Saloon and Gambling-hall, and
met there the leaders of Alaska society: men and women of diverse morals
and immoralities. In the great grab-bag system of the goldfields every
man has an equal chance; and on the frontier custom affords but one
field of diversion, which each may enjoy to the full extent of his purse
and inclination. As muscle and endurance alone give<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</SPAN></span> eminence on the
trail, so only money and extravagance command attention in the bar-room
and at the gaming-table; and it is there that the illiterate squander
their money over the bars and tables, finding pleasure in the
open-mouthed admiration of the yokel as well as in the stimulation of
the liquor or the excitement of the play.</p>
<p>At the bar of the Pack-Train stood a row of men, in widest diversity of
costume, talking together and to women numbered among the fallen. Behind
the bar were the roulette-wheel, the faro, the Black Jack tables, and
the crap game. A large percentage of these men were actively engaged in
putting supplies over the Passes, and were now squandering at the tables
the money received in payment of that work. The thought struck John that
probably not a man of them, wasting his money there, but had some one
dependent to whom that money would be as a gift from heaven. Alas, for
the recklessness of frontier life, where it so often happens that men
regard a show of contempt for money as tantamount to personal eminence!
Such scenes were not new to him. On the plains in his apprenticeship he
had seen a cowboy shoot his revolver through a bar mirror—and
cheerfully pay the exorbitant recompense demanded by the proprietor: and
in Sydney he had watched a drunken sailor place a five-pound note
between two slices of bread—and eat it!<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</SPAN></span></p>
<p>Such scenes as this in the mushroom Alaska town may be ever-interesting
to the students of human nature; they are also intensely pitiable, as
Berwick found. What sight is sadder than that which shows man degraded,
or woman fallen? Man, the noblest being in all creation; upbuilt,
evolved through the ages; practically perfect in his parts: his body
complex yet true; delicate and confident, enriched with a mind capable
of holding dominion; and conscious of the inspiration of his Creator. To
see him, mind and body, lost to dissipation, drawn from hope, truth, and
love, fallen into the mire, is truly sadder than death.</p>
<p>From the Pack-Train Saloon the two friends visited several shops, and,
notwithstanding the crowds therein, succeeded in adding to their
supplies such necessities as were recommended by Hugh Spencer. Their
purchases completed, they turned before the wind and went back to the
restaurant. The air had taken on a greater chill; the mountain peaks
shone with sunset gold.</p>
<hr style="width: 65%;"/><p><span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</SPAN></span></p>
<h2><SPAN name="CHAPTER_V" id="CHAPTER_V"></SPAN>CHAPTER V</h2>
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