<h4>46</h4>
<h4>WILD DUCK</h4>
<h4>(Anitra selvatica)</h4>
<p>Clean the duck, putting aside the giblets, and cut off the head and
legs. Chop fine a thick slice of ham with both lean and fat together,
with a moderate amount of celery, parsley, carrot and half medium sized
onion. Put the chopped ham and vegetables in a saucepan and lay the duck
on the whole, seasoning with salt and pepper. Brown on all sides and add
water to complete the cooking.</p>
<p>Cabbage or lentils, cooked in water and afterward allowed to complete
the cooking in the sauce obtained from the duck, form a good addition.</p>
<p>To remove the "gamey" taste from the wild duck, either wash it in
vinegar before cooking or scald it in boiling water.<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_39" id="Page_39"></SPAN></span></p>
<h4>47</h4>
<h4>STEWED SQUABS</h4>
<h4>(Piccioni in umido)</h4>
<p>Garnish the squabs with whole sage leaves and place them in a saucepan
over a bed of small slices of ham containing both lean and fat, season
with salt, pepper and olive oil. Place on the fire and when they begin
to be browned, add a piece of butter and complete the cooking by pouring
in some good broth. Before removing from the fire squeeze one lemon over
them and garnish with squares or diamonds of toasted bread. Take care
not to add too much salt on account of the ham and the broth both
containing salt.</p>
<p><b>Note</b>—Many of these dishes, it will be noticed, are made with broth.
When meat broth is not available, it can be prepared with bouillon cubes
or with Liebig or Armour Extracts. It is, however, always preferable to
use broth made with fresh meat.</p>
<h4>48</h4>
<h4>RAGOUT OF SQUABS</h4>
<h4>(Manicaretto di piccione)</h4>
<p>Cut two or more squabs at the joints, preferably in four parts each, and
put them on the fire with a slice of ham, a piece of butter, and a bunch
of parsley. When they begin to dry, add some broth and—before they are
completely<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_40" id="Page_40"></SPAN></span> cooked—their giblets and fresh mushrooms cut in slices.
Continue pouring in broth and allow the whole to simmer on a low fire.
Add another piece of butter over which some flour has been sprinkled, or
flour alone. Before serving, remove the ham and the bunch of greens and
squeeze some lemon juice over the squabs.</p>
<p>Some sweetbread may be added with good effect, but it must be first
scalded and the skin removed.</p>
<h4>49</h4>
<h4>SQUAB TIMBALE</h4>
<h4>(Timballo di piccioni)</h4>
<p>Chop together some ham, onion, celery and carrot, add a piece of butter
and place on the fire with one or two squabs, according to the number of
guests. Add the giblets from the squabs and some more of chicken, if at
hand. Season with salt and pepper, and when the pigeons are browned,
pour over some broth to complete the cooking, taking care, however, that
the sauce does not become too liquid. Remove the latter and place in it
some macaroni that has been half cooked and drained. Keep the macaroni
in the sauce on the fire, stirring them. Make a well reduced Béchamel
sauce, then cut the squabs at the joints, removing the neck, the legs
and the bones of the back, when you would not bone<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_41" id="Page_41"></SPAN></span> them entirely, which
would be better. Cut the giblets in small pieces and remove the soft
part of the onion.</p>
<p>When the macaroni have absorbed the sauce, season them with grated
cheese, pieces of butter, diamonds or squares of ham, a taste of nutmeg
and some truffles or dry mushrooms previously softened in water. Add
finally the Béchamel sauce and mix the whole.</p>
<p>Take a sufficiently large mold, butter it and line it with soft pastry.
Put everything in the mold, or timbale, cover it with the same pastry
and put in the oven. Take out of the mold and serve hot. Three quarters
of a pound of macaroni and two pigeons are enough for ten persons.</p>
<h4>50</h4>
<h4>SALMI OF GAME</h4>
<h4>(Uccelli in salmi)</h4>
<p>Roast the game completely, seasoning with salt and pepper. If the game
be small birds, leave them whole, if big cut them in four parts. Remove
all the heads and grind them together with some pieces of birds, or some
whole little birds. Put in a saucepan one tablespoonful of butter one
half pound of bacon or ham cut into dice, brown stock or broth, one
tablespoonful each of chopped onion and carrot, one tablespoonful each
of salt, thyme and sage.<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_42" id="Page_42"></SPAN></span> Allow the sauce to simmer for half an hour
then rub it through a sieve and place in it the roasted game. Make it
boil until the cooking is completed and serve with toasted diamonds of
bread.</p>
<h4>51</h4>
<h4>STEWED HARE</h4>
<h4>(Stufato di lepre)</h4>
<p>Take half of a good sized hare and, after cutting it in pieces, chop
fine one medium sized onion, one clove of garlic, a stalk of celery and
several leaves of rosemary. Put on the fire with some pieces of butter,
two tablespoonfuls of olive oil and four or five strips of bacon or salt
pork, when the whole has been browning for four or five minutes, put the
pieces of hare inside the saucepan and season them with salt, pepper and
spices. When it is browned, put a wineglass of white wine, some fresh
mushrooms, or dry mushrooms previously softened in water. Complete the
cooking with broth and tomato sauce and, if necessary, add another piece
of butter.</p>
<h4>52</h4>
<h4>STEWED RABBIT</h4>
<h4>(Coniglio in umido)</h4>
<p>After washing the rabbit, cut it in rather large pieces and put it on
the fire to drive away the water that is to be drained. When quite dry,
put<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_43" id="Page_43"></SPAN></span> in the saucepan a piece of butter, a little oil, and a hash
composed of the liver of the rabbit itself, a small piece of corned beef
and some onion, celery, carrot and parsley. Season with salt and pepper.
Stir often and when it is browned add some tomato sauce and another
piece of butter.</p>
<h4>53</h4>
<h4>GREEN SAUCE</h4>
<h4>(Salsa verde)</h4>
<p>Chop all together some capers that have been in vinegar, one anchovy, a
small slice of onion and just a taste of garlic. Crush the resulting
hash with the blade of a knife to make it very fine. Add a sprig of
parsley, chopped together with some leaves of basil and dissolve the
whole in very good olive oil and lemon juice.</p>
<p>This sauce is excellent to season boiled chicken or cold boiled fish or
hard boiled eggs.</p>
<p>Green Peppers can take the place of capers, if these are not at hand.</p>
<h4>54</h4>
<h4>WHITE SAUCE</h4>
<h4>(Salsa bianca)</h4>
<p>This sauce can be served with boiled asparagus or with cauliflower. The
ingredients are ¼ lb. of butter, a tablespoonful of flour, a
tablespoon<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_44" id="Page_44"></SPAN></span>ful vinegar, one yolk of egg, salt and pepper, broth or water
in sufficient quantity.</p>
<p>Put first on the fire the flour with half the butter and when it begins
to be browned pour over it the broth or the water little by little,
stirring with the wooden spoon and adding the rest of the butter and the
vinegar without making the water boil too much. When taken off the fire
add the yolk of the egg, stir and serve.</p>
<h4>55</h4>
<h4>YELLOW SAUCE</h4>
<h4>(Salsa gialla)</h4>
<p>This sauce is especially good for boiled fish, and the quantities
indicated below are sufficient for a piece of fish or a whole fish
weighing about a pound.</p>
<p>Put on the fire in a little saucepan one teaspoonful of flour and two
ounces of butter, and when the flour begins to be browned, pour over it
little by little one cup of the broth of the fish, that is to say of the
water in which the fish has been boiled. When you see that the flour
does not rise in the boiling water, take away the sauce from the flour
and pour over two tablespoonfuls of olive oil and the yolk of an egg,
stirring and mixing everything well. Squeeze in the sauce half a lemon
and season generously with salt and pepper. Let it cool and then pour
over the fish that is to be served with a sprig of parsley.<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_45" id="Page_45"></SPAN></span></p>
<p>This sauce must have the appearance of a cream and must not be too
liquid, in order that it may remain attached to the fish.</p>
<h4>56</h4>
<h4>SAUCE FOR BROILED FISH</h4>
<h4>(Salsa per pesce in gratella)</h4>
<p>This sauce is composed of yolks of eggs, salted anchovies, olive oil and
lemon juice. Boil the eggs in their shell for ten minutes and for every
hard yolk take one large anchovy or two small. Bone the anchovies and
rub them on the sieve together with the hard (or semi-hard) yolks, and
dissolve all with oil and lemon juice to reduce it like a cream. Cover
with this sauce the broiled fish before sending to the table, or serve
aside in a gravy boat.</p>
<h4>57</h4>
<h4>CAPER SAUCE</h4>
<h4>(Salsa con capperi)</h4>
<p>This sauce is especially adapted for boiled fish and the quantities are
for a little more than one pound of fish. The ingredients are two ounces
of butter, two ounces of capers soaked in vinegar one teaspoonful of
flour, salt, pepper and vinegar.</p>
<p>Boil the fish and, when it is left warm in its broth, prepare the sauce.
Put on the fire the flour<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_46" id="Page_46"></SPAN></span> with half of the butter, mix it and when it
begins to take color, add the remaining butter.</p>
<p>Let boil a little and then pour one half cup of the broth of the fish:
season generously with salt and pepper and take the saucepan from the
fire. Then throw in it the capers, half whole, half chopped, and some
drops of vinegar, but taste it to dose the sauce so that it is pleasant
to the taste and as thick as liquid cream.</p>
<p>It is well to observe here that these sauces in which butter is used
together with acids, such as vinegar, are not for weak stomachs and
should be partaken of sparingly.</p>
<h4>58</h4>
<h4>GENOVESE SAUCE</h4>
<h4>(Salsa genovese)</h4>
<p>Chop fine a sprig of parsley and half a clove of garlic. Then mix with
some capers soaked in vinegar, one anchovy, one hard yolk of egg, three
pitless olives, a crumb of bread as big as an egg, soaked in vinegar.
Grind all these ingredients, rub through a sieve and dissolve in olive
oil, dosing right by tasting.</p>
<h4>59</h4>
<h4>BALSAMELLA SAUCE</h4>
<h4>(Salsa balsamella)</h4>
<p>This sauce resembles the famous French Béchamel Sauce, but it is simpler
in its composition.<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_47" id="Page_47"></SPAN></span></p>
<p>Put in a saucepan one tablespoonful of flour and a piece of butter as
big as an egg. Stir the flour and the butter together while keeping them
over the fire. When the flour begins to be browned, pour over a pint of
milk, continually stirring with a wooden spoon until you see the liquid
condensed like a cream. This is the <b>Balsamella</b>. If it is too thick add
some milk, if too liquid put back on the fire with another piece of
butter dipped in flour.</p>
<p>A good <b>Balsamella</b> and some well prepared brown stock are the base and
the principal secret of many savory dishes.</p>
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