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<h2> CHAPTER SEVENTEEN </h2>
<p>IMPROVEMENT IN HEALTH AND SPIRITS—FELICITY OF THE TYPEES—THEIR
ENJOYMENTS COMPARED WITH THOSE OF MORE ENLIGHTENED COMMUNITIES—COMPARATIVE
WICKEDNESS OF CIVILIZED AND UNENLIGHTENED PEOPLE—A SKIRMISH IN THE
MOUNTAIN WITH THE WARRIORS OF HAPPAR</p>
<p>DAY after day wore on, and still there was no perceptible change in the
conduct of the islanders towards me. Gradually I lost all knowledge of the
regular recurrence of the days of the week, and sunk insensibly into that
kind of apathy which ensues after some violent outburst of despair. My
limb suddenly healed, the swelling went down, the pain subsided, and I had
every reason to suppose I should soon completely recover from the
affliction that had so long tormented me.</p>
<p>As soon as I was enabled to ramble about the valley in company with the
natives, troops of whom followed me whenever I sallied out of the house, I
began to experience an elasticity of mind which placed me beyond the reach
of those dismal forebodings to which I had so lately been a prey. Received
wherever I went with the most deferential kindness; regaled perpetually
with the most delightful fruits; ministered to by dark-eyed nymphs, and
enjoying besides all the services of the devoted Kory-Kory, I thought
that, for a sojourn among cannibals, no man could have well made a more
agreeable one.</p>
<p>To be sure there were limits set to my wanderings. Toward the sea my
progress was barred by an express prohibition of the savages; and after
having made two or three ineffectual attempts to reach it, as much to
gratify my curiosity as anything else, I gave up the idea. It was in vain
to think of reaching it by stealth, since the natives escorted me in
numbers wherever I went, and not for one single moment that I can recall
to mind was I ever permitted to be alone.</p>
<p>The green and precipitous elevations that stood ranged around the head of
the vale where Marheyo's habitation was situated effectually precluded all
hope of escape in that quarter, even if I could have stolen away from the
thousand eyes of the savages.</p>
<p>But these reflections now seldom obtruded upon me; I gave myself up to the
passing hour, and if ever disagreeable thoughts arose in my mind, I drove
them away. When I looked around the verdant recess in which I was buried,
and gazed up to the summits of the lofty eminence that hemmed me in, I was
well disposed to think that I was in the 'Happy Valley', and that beyond
those heights there was naught but a world of care and anxiety. As I
extended my wanderings in the valley and grew more familiar with the
habits of its inmates, I was fain to confess that, despite the
disadvantages of his condition, the Polynesian savage, surrounded by all
the luxurious provisions of nature, enjoyed an infinitely happier, though
certainly a less intellectual existence than the self-complacent European.</p>
<p>The naked wretch who shivers beneath the bleak skies, and starves among
the inhospitable wilds of Tierra-del-Fuego, might indeed be made happier
by civilization, for it would alleviate his physical wants. But the
voluptuous Indian, with every desire supplied, whom Providence has
bountifully provided with all the sources of pure and natural enjoyment,
and from whom are removed so many of the ills and pains of life—what
has he to desire at the hands of Civilization? She may 'cultivate his mind—may
elevate his thoughts,'—these I believe are the established phrases—but
will he be the happier? Let the once smiling and populous Hawaiian
islands, with their now diseased, starving, and dying natives, answer the
question. The missionaries may seek to disguise the matter as they will,
but the facts are incontrovertible; and the devoutest Christian who visits
that group with an unbiased mind, must go away mournfully asking—'Are
these, alas! the fruits of twenty-five years of enlightening?'</p>
<p>In a primitive state of society, the enjoyments of life, though few and
simple, are spread over a great extent, and are unalloyed; but
Civilization, for every advantage she imparts, holds a hundred evils in
reserve;—the heart-burnings, the jealousies, the social rivalries,
the family dissentions, and the thousand self-inflicted discomforts of
refined life, which make up in units the swelling aggregate of human
misery, are unknown among these unsophisticated people.</p>
<p>But it will be urged that these shocking unprincipled wretches are
cannibals. Very true; and a rather bad trait in their character it must be
allowed. But they are such only when they seek to gratify the passion of
revenge upon their enemies; and I ask whether the mere eating of human
flesh so very far exceeds in barbarity that custom which only a few years
since was practised in enlightened England:—a convicted traitor,
perhaps a man found guilty of honesty, patriotism, and suchlike heinous
crimes, had his head lopped off with a huge axe, his bowels dragged out
and thrown into a fire; while his body, carved into four quarters, was
with his head exposed upon pikes, and permitted to rot and fester among
the public haunts of men!</p>
<p>The fiend-like skill we display in the invention of all manner of
death-dealing engines, the vindictiveness with which we carry on our wars,
and the misery and desolation that follow in their train, are enough of
themselves to distinguish the white civilized man as the most ferocious
animal on the face of the earth.</p>
<p>His remorseless cruelty is seen in many of the institutions of our own
favoured land. There is one in particular lately adopted in one of the
States of the Union, which purports to have been dictated by the most
merciful considerations. To destroy our malefactors piece-meal, drying up
in their veins, drop by drop, the blood we are too chicken-hearted to shed
by a single blow which would at once put a period to their sufferings, is
deemed to be infinitely preferable to the old-fashioned punishment of
gibbeting—much less annoying to the victim, and more in accordance
with the refined spirit of the age; and yet how feeble is all language to
describe the horrors we inflict upon these wretches, whom we mason up in
the cells of our prisons, and condemn to perpetual solitude in the very
heart of our population.</p>
<p>But it is needless to multiply the examples of civilized barbarity; they
far exceed in the amount of misery they cause the crimes which we regard
with such abhorrence in our less enlightened fellow-creatures.</p>
<p>The term 'Savage' is, I conceive, often misapplied, and indeed, when I
consider the vices, cruelties, and enormities of every kind that spring up
in the tainted atmosphere of a feverish civilization, I am inclined to
think that so far as the relative wickedness of the parties is concerned,
four or five Marquesan Islanders sent to the United States as Missionaries
might be quite as useful as an equal number of Americans despatched to the
Islands in a similar capacity.</p>
<p>I once heard it given as an instance of the frightful depravity of a
certain tribe in the Pacific that they had no word in their language to
express the idea of virtue. The assertion was unfounded; but were it
otherwise, it might be met by stating that their language is almost
entirely destitute of terms to express the delightful ideas conveyed by
our endless catalogue of civilized crimes.</p>
<p>In the altered frame of mind to which I have referred, every object that
presented itself to my notice in the valley struck me in a new light, and
the opportunities I now enjoyed of observing the manners of its inmates,
tended to strengthen my favourable impressions. One peculiarity that fixed
my admiration was the perpetual hilarity reigning through the whole extent
of the vale.</p>
<p>There seemed to be no cares, griefs, troubles, or vexations, in all Typee.
The hours tripped along as gaily as the laughing couples down a country
dance.</p>
<p>There were none of those thousand sources of irritation that the ingenuity
of civilized man has created to mar his own felicity. There were no
foreclosures of mortgages, no protested notes, no bills payable, no debts
of honour in Typee; no unreasonable tailors and shoemakers perversely bent
on being paid; no duns of any description and battery attorneys, to foment
discord, backing their clients up to a quarrel, and then knocking their
heads together; no poor relations, everlastingly occupying the spare
bed-chamber, and diminishing the elbow room at the family table; no
destitute widows with their children starving on the cold charities of the
world; no beggars; no debtors' prisons; no proud and hard-hearted nabobs
in Typee; or to sum up all in one word—no Money! 'That root of all
evil' was not to be found in the valley.</p>
<p>In this secluded abode of happiness there were no cross old women, no
cruel step-dames, no withered spinsters, no lovesick maidens, no sour old
bachelors, no inattentive husbands, no melancholy young men, no blubbering
youngsters, and no squalling brats. All was mirth, fun and high good
humour. Blue devils, hypochondria, and doleful dumps, went and hid
themselves among the nooks and crannies of the rocks.</p>
<p>Here you would see a parcel of children frolicking together the live-long
day, and no quarrelling, no contention, among them. The same number in our
own land could not have played together for the space of an hour without
biting or scratching one another. There you might have seen a throng of
young females, not filled with envyings of each other's charms, nor
displaying the ridiculous affectations of gentility, nor yet moving in
whalebone corsets, like so many automatons, but free, inartificially
happy, and unconstrained.</p>
<p>There were some spots in that sunny vale where they would frequently
resort to decorate themselves with garlands of flowers. To have seen them
reclining beneath the shadows of one of the beautiful groves; the ground
about them strewn with freshly gathered buds and blossoms, employed in
weaving chaplets and necklaces, one would have thought that all the train
of Flora had gathered together to keep a festival in honour of their
mistress.</p>
<p>With the young men there seemed almost always some matter of diversion or
business on hand that afforded a constant variety of enjoyment. But
whether fishing, or carving canoes, or polishing their ornaments, never
was there exhibited the least sign of strife or contention among them. As
for the warriors, they maintained a tranquil dignity of demeanour,
journeying occasionally from house to house, where they were always sure
to be received with the attention bestowed upon distinguished guests. The
old men, of whom there were many in the vale, seldom stirred from their
mats, where they would recline for hours and hours, smoking and talking to
one another with all the garrulity of age.</p>
<p>But the continual happiness, which so far as I was able to judge appeared
to prevail in the valley, sprang principally from that all-pervading
sensation which Rousseau has told us be at one time experienced, the mere
buoyant sense of a healthful physical existence. And indeed in this
particular the Typees had ample reason to felicitate themselves, for
sickness was almost unknown. During the whole period of my stay I saw but
one invalid among them; and on their smooth skins you observed no blemish
or mark of disease.</p>
<p>The general repose, however, upon which I have just been descanting, was
broken in upon about this time by an event which proved that the islanders
were not entirely exempt from those occurrences which disturb the quiet of
more civilized communities.</p>
<p>Having now been a considerable time in the valley, I began to feel
surprised that the violent hostility subsisting between its inhabitants,
and those of the adjoining bay of Happar, should never have manifested
itself in any warlike encounter. Although the valiant Typees would often
by gesticulations declare their undying hatred against their enemies, and
the disgust they felt at their cannibal propensities; although they
dilated upon the manifold injuries they had received at their hands, yet
with a forbearance truly commendable, they appeared to sit down under
their grievances, and to refrain from making any reprisals. The Happars,
entrenched behind their mountains, and never even showing themselves on
their summits, did not appear to me to furnish adequate cause for that
excess of animosity evinced towards them by the heroic tenants of our
vale, and I was inclined to believe that the deeds of blood attributed to
them had been greatly exaggerated.</p>
<p>On the other hand, as the clamours of war had not up to this period
disturbed the serenity of the tribe, I began to distrust the truth of
those reports which ascribed so fierce and belligerent a character to the
Typee nation. Surely, thought I, all these terrible stories I have heard
about the inveteracy with which they carried on the feud, their deadly
intensity, of hatred and the diabolical malice with which they glutted
their revenge upon the inanimate forms of the slain, are nothing more than
fables, and I must confess that I experienced something like a sense of
regret at having my hideous anticipations thus disappointed. I felt in
some sort like a 'prentice boy who, going to the play in the expectation
of being delighted with a cut-and-thrust tragedy, is almost moved to tears
of disappointment at the exhibition of a genteel comedy.</p>
<p>I could not avoid thinking that I had fallen in with a greatly traduced
people, and I moralized not a little upon the disadvantage of having a bad
name, which in this instance had given a tribe of savages, who were as
pacific as so many lambkins, the reputation of a confederacy of
giant-killers.</p>
<p>But subsequent events proved that I had been a little too premature in
coming to this conclusion. One, day about noon, happening to be at the Ti,
I had lain down on the mats with several of the chiefs, and had gradually
sunk into a most luxurious siesta, when I was awakened by a tremendous
outcry, and starting up beheld the natives seizing their spears and
hurrying out, while the most puissant of the chiefs, grasping the six
muskets which were ranged against the bamboos, followed after, and soon
disappeared in the groves. These movements were accompanied by wild
shouts, in which 'Happar, Happar,' greatly predominated. The islanders
were now seen running past the Ti, and striking across the valley to the
Happar side. Presently I heard the sharp report of a musket from the
adjoining hills, and then a burst of voices in the same direction. At this
the women who had congregated in the groves, set up the most violent
clamours, as they invariably do here as elsewhere on every occasion of
excitement and alarm, with a view of tranquillizing their own minds and
disturbing other people. On this particular occasion they made such an
outrageous noise, and continued it with such perseverance, that for
awhile, had entire volleys of musketry been fired off in the neighbouring
mountains, I should not have been able to have heard them.</p>
<p>When this female commotion had a little subsided I listened eagerly for
further information. At last bang went another shot, and then a second
volley of yells from the hills. Again all was quiet, and continued so for
such a length of time that I began to think the contending armies had
agreed upon a suspension of hostilities; when pop went a third gun,
followed as before with a yell. After this, for nearly two hours nothing
occurred worthy of comment, save some straggling shouts from the hillside,
sounding like the halloos of a parcel of truant boys who had lost
themselves in the woods.</p>
<p>During this interval I had remained standing on the piazza of the 'Ti,'
which directly fronted the Happar mountain, and with no one near me but
Kory-Kory and the old superannuated savages I have described. These latter
never stirred from their mats, and seemed altogether unconscious that
anything unusual was going on.</p>
<p>As for Kory-Kory, he appeared to think that we were in the midst of great
events, and sought most zealously to impress me with a due sense of their
importance. Every sound that reached us conveyed some momentous item of
intelligence to him. At such times, as if he were gifted with second
sight, he would go through a variety of pantomimic illustrations, showing
me the precise manner in which the redoubtable Typees were at that very
moment chastising the insolence of the enemy. 'Mehevi hanna pippee nuee
Happar,' he exclaimed every five minutes, giving me to understand that
under that distinguished captain the warriors of his nation were
performing prodigies of valour.</p>
<p>Having heard only four reports from the muskets, I was led to believe that
they were worked by the islanders in the same manner as the Sultan
Solyman's ponderous artillery at the siege of Byzantium, one of them
taking an hour or two to load and train. At last, no sound whatever
proceeding from the mountains, I concluded that the contest had been
determined one way or the other. Such appeared, indeed, to be the case,
for in a little while a courier arrived at the 'Ti', almost breathless
with his exertions, and communicated the news of a great victory having
been achieved by his countrymen: 'Happar poo arva!—Happar poo arva!'
(the cowards had fled). Kory-Kory was in ecstasies, and commenced a
vehement harangue, which, so far as I understood it, implied that the
result exactly agreed with his expectations, and which, moreover, was
intended to convince me that it would be a perfectly useless undertaking,
even for an army of fire-eaters, to offer battle to the irresistible
heroes of our valley. In all this I of course acquiesced, and looked
forward with no little interest to the return of the conquerors, whose
victory I feared might not have been purchased without cost to themselves.</p>
<p>But here I was again mistaken; for Mehevi, in conducting his warlike
operations, rather inclined to the Fabian than to the Bonapartean tactics,
husbanding his resources and exposing his troops to no unnecessary
hazards. The total loss of the victors in this obstinately contested
affair was, in killed, wounded, and missing—one forefinger and part
of a thumb-nail (which the late proprietor brought along with him in his
hand), a severely contused arm, and a considerable effusion of blood
flowing from the thigh of a chief, who had received an ugly thrust from a
Happar spear. What the enemy had suffered I could not discover, but I
presume they had succeeded in taking off with them the bodies of their
slain.</p>
<p>Such was the issue of the battle, as far as its results came under my
observation: and as it appeared to be considered an event of prodigious
importance, I reasonably concluded that the wars of the natives were
marked by no very sanguinary traits. I afterwards learned how the skirmish
had originated. A number of the Happars had been discovered prowling for
no good purpose on the Typee side of the mountain; the alarm sounded, and
the invaders, after a protracted resistance, had been chased over the
frontier. But why had not the intrepid Mehevi carried the war into Happar?
Why had he not made a descent into the hostile vale, and brought away some
trophy of his victory—some materials for the cannibal entertainment
which I had heard usually terminated every engagement? After all, I was
much inclined to believe that these shocking festivals must occur very
rarely among the islanders, if, indeed, they ever take place.</p>
<p>For two or three days the late event was the theme of general comment;
after which the excitement gradually wore away, and the valley resumed its
accustomed tranquility.</p>
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