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<h2> CHAPTER XX </h2>
<p><br/>
Alarming News—Fremont Presses Forward and is Not Molested—Arrival at<br/>
South Pass—Fremont's Account of the Ascent of the Highest Peak of<br/>
the Rocky Mountains—The Return to Fort Laramie—Carson Starts for New<br/>
Mexico—End of Fremont's First Exploring Expedition.<br/></p>
<p>Alarming news awaited Fremont at Fort Laramie. A number of trappers
informed them that the Sioux, through whose country their route lay, were
excited to exasperation by several recent conflicts with hunters in which
the red men were worsted. The Sioux warriors were gathered in large
numbers and would attack any white men who ventured beyond the fort. They
had already massacred a number and it was impossible for Fremont and his
party to get through without a battle in which they were likely to be
overwhelmed.</p>
<p>Carson looked upon the situation as so serious that he made his will and
left it at the fort. When consulted by Fremont, he said he considered the
prospect full of peril, but he was ready to go the moment required. The
commander was confident the danger was greatly exaggerated, and, without
much misgiving, he resumed his journey westward, following up the north
fork of the Platte. Game and water were found, and, at the end of three
weeks, they arrived at the South Pass of the Rocky Mountains without
having exchanged a shot with a red man on the way.</p>
<p>They had now reached their destination and Lieutenant Fremont at once
began his observations. When they were concluded he undertook the ascent
of the highest mountain peak. The situation was anything but encouraging:
they were in the country of the hostile Blackfeet, some of whom were
observed hovering in the vicinity; men and animals were worn out and it
was hard to procure game. But the ascent was begun, Fremont taking
fourteen men with him. Those who were left in camp erected a rude but
strong fort, behind which they were confident they could sustain
themselves against any force the Indians were likely to muster.</p>
<p>The ascent of the mountain was laborious in the extreme. Kit Carson
climbed to one of the loftiest peaks from which he gained a full view of
the very highest elevation. The next day Fremont sent Carson and several
of the men back. He unquestionably intended that no one should share with
him the honor of climbing the most elevated point. This exploit is worthy
of description at the hands of the Pathfinder himself.</p>
<p>"At intervals we reached places where a number of springs gushed from the
rocks, and about 1,800 feet above the lakes came to the snow line. From
this point our progress was uninterrupted climbing. Hitherto, I had worn a
pair of thick moccasins, with soles of parfleche but here I put on a light
thin pair, which I had brought for the purpose, as now the use of our toes
became necessary to a further advance. I availed myself of a sort of comb
of the mountain, which stood against the wall like a buttress, and which
the wind and solar radiation, joined to the steepness of the smooth rock,
had kept almost entirely free from snow. Up this I made my way rapidly.
Our cautious method of advancing in the outset had spared my strength;
and, with the exception of a slight disposition to headache, I felt no
remains of yesterday's illness. In a few minutes we reached a point where
the buttress was overhanging, and there was no other way of surmounting
the difficulty than by passing around one side of it, which was the face
of a vertical precipice of several hundred feet."</p>
<p>Parfleche is the name given to buffalo hide. The Indian women prepare it
by scraping and drying. It is exceedingly tough and hard, and receives its
name from the circumstance that it cannot be pierced by arrows or spears.</p>
<p>The entire dress of Fremont and his party, on their ascent to the "top of
America," consisted of a blue flannel shirt, free and open at the neck,
the collar turning down over a black silk handkerchief tied loosely, blue
cloth pantaloons, a slouched broad brimmed hat, and moccasins as above
described. It was well adapted to climbing, quite light, and at the same
time warm, and every way comfortable.</p>
<p>"Putting hands and feet in the crevices between the blocks, I succeeded in
getting over it, and when I reached the top, found my companions in a
small valley below. Descending to them, we continued climbing, and in a
short time reached the crest. I sprang upon the summit and another step
would have precipitated me into an immense snow field five hundred feet
below. To the edge of this field was a sheer icy precipice; and then, with
a gradual fall, the field sloped off for about a mile, until it struck the
foot of another lower ridge. I stood on a narrow crest about three feet in
width, with an inclination of about 20 degrees N. 51 degrees E. As soon as
I had gratified the first feelings of curiosity I descended, and each man
ascended in turn, for I would only allow one at a time to mount the
unstable and precarious slab, which it seemed a breath would hurl into the
abyss below. We mounted the barometer in the snow of the summit, and,
fixing a ramrod in a crevice, unfurled the national flag, to wave in the
breeze, where never flag waved before. During our morning's ascent, we met
no sign of animal life, except a small bird having the appearance of a
sparrow. A stillness the most profound, and a terrible solitude forced
themselves constantly on the mind as the great features of the place.
Here, on the summit, where the stillness was absolute, unbroken by any
sound, and the solitude complete, we thought ourselves beyond the region
of animated life; but while we were sitting on the rock, a solitary bee
(bombus terrestris, the humble bee) came winging his flight from the
eastern valley, and lit on the knee of one of the men.</p>
<p>"Around us the whole scene had one main striking feature, which was that
of terrible convulsion. Parallel to its length, the ridge was split into
chasms and fissures, between which rose the thin, lofty walls, terminated
with slender minarets and columns, which are correctly represented in the
view from the camp on Island Lake. According to the barometer, the little
crest of the wall on which we stood was three thousand five hundred and
seventy feet above that place, and two thousand seven hundred and eighty
feet above the little lakes at the bottom, immediately at our feet.</p>
<p>"Our camp at the Two Hills (an astronomical station) bore south 30 east,
which, with a bearing afterward obtained from a fixed position, enabled us
to locate the peak. The bearing of the Trois Tetons was north 50 degrees
west, and the direction of the central ridge of the Wind River Mountains
south 39 degrees east. The summit rock was gneiss. Sienite and feldspar
succeeded in our descent to the snow line, where we found a felspathic
granite. I had remarked that the noise produced by the explosion of our
pistols had the usual degree of loudness, but was not in the least
prolonged, expiring almost instantaneously. Having now made what
observations our means afforded, we proceeded to descend. We had
accomplished an object of laudable ambition, and beyond the strict order
of our instructions. We had climbed the loftiest peak of the Rocky
Mountains and looked down upon the snow a thousand feet below, and,
standing where human foot had never stood before, felt the exultation of
first explorers. It was about two o'clock when we left the summit; and
when we reached the bottom the sun had already sunk behind the wall, and
the day was drawing to a close. It would have been pleasant to linger here
and on the summit longer; but we hurried away as rapidly as the ground
would permit, for it was an object to regain our party as soon as
possible, not knowing what accident the next hour might bring forth."</p>
<p>This mountain which bears the name of Fremont's Peak, in honor of the
great Pathfinder, was found to be 13,570 feet above the Gulf of Mexico.</p>
<p>The object of the expedition was accomplished and preparations were made
for the return to the states. No accident worth the mention had befallen
the explorers, and the Blackfeet, from whom so much was feared, did not
molest them. It may have been that when their scouts reconnoitred the
camp, they found the barricades so strong and the garrison so watchful
that they decided it would be too costly to make an attack upon them. It
is not impossible that some one or more of them recognized the daring
mountaineer who more than once years before had given their warriors such
severe defeat and punishment. If such was the truth, we cannot but respect
the discretion they showed.</p>
<p>Fort Laramie was reached in the month of September 1842. There as Kit
Carson's labors were ended, he bade his commander and friends goodbye and
started for New Mexico. Fremont and his men reached the states in safety
and thus ended his first exploring expedition.</p>
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