<h2><SPAN name="XX" id="XX"></SPAN>XX</h2>
<p>My own sense of the great matter, meanwhile—that is of our
possibilities, still more than of our actualities, of Italy in general
and of Florence in particular—was a perfectly recoverable little
awareness, as I find, of certain mild soft irregular breathings thence
on the part of an absent pair in whom our parents were closely
interested and whose communications, whose Roman, Sorrentine, Florentine
letters, letters in especial from the Baths of Lucca, kept open, in our
air, more than any other sweet irritation, that "question of Europe"
which was to have after all, in the immediate years, so limited, so
shortened, a solution. Mary Temple the elder had, early in our
Fourteenth Street period, married Edmund Tweedy, a haunter of that
neighbourhood and of our house in it from the first, but never more than
during a winter spent with us there by that quasi-relative, who, by an
extension of interest and admiration—she was in those years quite
exceedingly handsome—ranked for us with the Albany aunts, adding so a
twist, as it were, to our tie with the Temple cousins, her own close
kin. This couple must have been, <span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_274" id="Page_274"></SPAN></span>putting real relatives aside, my
parents' best friends in Europe, twitching thereby hardest the fine firm
thread attached at one end to our general desire and at the other to
their supposed felicity. The real relatives, those planted out in the
same countries, are a chapter by themselves, whose effect on us, whose
place in our vision, I should like to trace: that of the Kings, for
instance, of my mother's kin, that of the Masons, of my father's—the
Kings who cultivated, for years, the highest instructional, social and
moral possibilities at Geneva, the Masons, above all, less strenuous but
more sympathetic, who reported themselves to us hauntingly, during a
considerable period, as enjoying every conceivable <i>agrément</i> at Tours
and at the then undeveloped Trouville, even the winter Trouville, on the
lowest possible terms. Fain would I, as for the "mere pleasure" of it,
under the temptation to delineate, gather into my loose net the
singularly sharp and rounded image of our cousin Charlotte of the former
name, who figured for us, on the field of Europe, wherever we looked,
and all the rest of time, as a character of characters and a marvel of
placid consistency; through my vague remembrance of her return from
China after the arrest of a commercial career there by her husband's
death in the Red Sea—which somehow sounded like a dreadful form of
death, and my scarce less faint recovery of some<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_275" id="Page_275"></SPAN></span> Christmas treat of our
childhood under her roof in Gramercy Park, amid dim chinoiseries and, in
that twilight of time, dimmer offspring, Vernon, Anne, Arthur, marked to
us always, in the distincter years, as of all our young relatives the
most intensely educated and most pointedly proper—an occasion followed
by her permanent and invidious withdrawal from her own country. I would
keep her in my eye through the Genevese age and on to the crisis of the
Civil War, in which Vernon, unforgiven by her stiff conservatism for his
Northern loyalty, laid down before Petersburg a young life of
understanding and pain, uncommemorated as to the gallantry of its
end—he had insistently returned to the front, after a recovery from
first wounds, as under his mother's malediction—on the stone beneath
which he lies in the old burial ground at Newport, the cradle of his
father's family. I should further pursue my subject through other
periods and places, other constantly "quiet" but vivid exhibitions, to
the very end of the story—which for myself was the impression, first,
of a little lonely, soft-voiced, gentle, relentless lady, in a dull
Surrey garden of a summer afternoon, more than half blind and all
dependent on the <i>dame de compagnie</i> who read aloud to her that Saturday
Review which had ever been the prop and mirror of her opinions and to
which she remained faithful, her children estranged and<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_276" id="Page_276"></SPAN></span> outworn, dead
and ignored; and the vision, second and for a climax, of an old-world
rez-de-chaussée at Versailles, goal of my final pilgrimage, almost in
presence of the end (end of her very personal career, I mean, but not of
her perfectly firm spirit or of her charmingly smooth address).</p>
<p>I confess myself embarrassed by my very ease of re-capture of my young
consciousness; so that I perforce try to encourage lapses and keep my
abundance down. The place for the lapse consents with difficulty,
however, to be <i>any</i> particular point of the past at which I catch
myself (easily caught as I am) looking about me; it has certainly
nothing in common with that coign of vantage enjoyed by me one June
afternoon of 1855 in the form of the minor share of the box of a
carriage that conveyed us for the first time since our babyhood, W. J.'s
and mine, through so much of a vast portentous London. I was an item in
the overflow of a vehicle completely occupied, and I thrilled with the
spectacle my seat beside the coachman so amply commanded—without
knowing at this moment why, amid other claims, I had been marked for
such an eminence. I so far justify my privilege at least as still to
feel that prime impression, of extreme intensity, underlie, deep down,
the whole mass of later observation. There are London aspects which, so
far as they still touch me, after all the years, touch me as just<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_277" id="Page_277"></SPAN></span>
sensible reminders of this hour of early apprehension, so penetrated for
me as to have kept its ineffaceable stamp. For at last we had come to
Europe—we had disembarked at Liverpool, but a couple of days before,
from that steamer Atlantic, of the Collins line, then active but so soon
to be utterly undone, of which I had kept a romantic note ever since a
certain evening of a winter or two before. I had on that occasion
assisted with my parents at a varied theatrical exhibition—the theatre
is distinct to me as Brougham's—one of the features of which was the at
that time flourishing farce of Betsy Baker, a picture of some
predicament, supposed droll, of its hero Mr. Mouser, whose wife, if I am
correct, carries on a laundry and controls as she may a train of young
assistants. A feature of the piece comes back to me as the pursuit of
Mr. Mouser round and round the premises by the troop of laundresses,
shouting his name in chorus, capture by them being abject, though
whether through fear of their endearments or of their harsher violence I
fail to remember. It was enough that the public nerve had at the moment
been tried by the non-arrival of the Atlantic, several days overdue, to
the pitch at last of extreme anxiety; so that, when after the fall of
the curtain on the farce the distracted Mr. Mouser, still breathless,
reappeared at the footlights, where I can see him now abate by his
plight<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_278" id="Page_278"></SPAN></span> no jot of the dignity of his announcement, "Ladies and
gentlemen, I rejoice to be able to tell you that the good ship Atlantic
is safe!" the house broke into such plaudits, so huge and prolonged a
roar of relief, as I had never heard the like of and which gave me my
first measure of a great immediate public emotion—even as the incident
itself to-day reminds me of the family-party smallness of the old New
York, those happy limits that could make us all care, and care to fond
vociferation, for the same thing at once. It was a moment of the golden
age—representing too but a snatch of elation, since the wretched Arctic
had gone down in mortal woe and her other companion, the Pacific,
leaving England a few months later and under the interested eyes of our
family group, then temporarily settled in London, was never heard of
more. Let all of which show again what traps are laid about me for
unguarded acute reminiscence.</p>
<p>I meet another of these, though I positively try to avoid it, in the
sense of a day spent on the great fusty curtained bed, a mediæval
four-poster such as I had never seen, of the hotel at the London and
North-Western station, where it appeared, to our great inconvenience,
that I had during the previous months somewhere perversely absorbed
(probably on Staten Island upwards of a year before) the dull seed of
malaria, which now suddenly<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_279" id="Page_279"></SPAN></span> broke out in chills and fever. This
condition, of the intermittent order, hampered our movements but left
alternate days on which we could travel, and as present to me as ever is
the apprehended interest of my important and determinant state and of
our complicated prospect while I lay, much at my ease—for I recall in
particular certain short sweet times when I could be left alone—with
the thick and heavy suggestions of the London room about me, the very
smell of which was ancient, strange and impressive, a new revelation
altogether, and the window open to the English June and the far off hum
of a thousand possibilities. I consciously took them in, these last, and
must then, I think, have first tasted the very greatest pleasure perhaps
I was ever to know—that of almost holding my breath in presence of
certain aspects to the end of so taking in. It was as if in those hours
that precious fine art had been disclosed to me—scantly as the poor
place and the small occasion might have seemed of an order to promote
it. We seize our property by an avid instinct wherever we find it, and I
must have kept seizing mine at the absurdest little rate, and all by
this deeply dissimulative process of taking in, through the whole
succession of those summer days. The next application of it that stands
out for me, or the next that I make room for here, since I note after
all so much less than I remember,<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_280" id="Page_280"></SPAN></span> is the intensity of a fond
apprehension of Paris, a few days later, from the balcony of an hotel
that hung, through the soft summer night, over the Rue de la Paix. I
hung with the balcony, and doubtless with my brothers and my sister,
though I recover what I felt as so much relation and response to the
larger, the largest appeal only, that of the whole perfect Parisianism I
seemed to myself always to have possessed mentally—even if I had but
just turned twelve!—and that now filled out its frame or case for me
from every lighted window, up and down, as if each of these had been,
for strength of sense, a word in some immortal quotation, the very
breath of civilised lips. How I had anciently gathered such stores of
preconception is more than I shall undertake an account of—though I
believe I should be able to scrape one together; certain it is at any
rate that half the beauty of the whole exposed second floor of a
<i>modiste</i> just opposite, for instance, with the fittings and figurings,
as well as the intent immobilities, of busy young women descried through
frank, and, as it were, benignant apertures, and of such bright fine
strain that they but asked to work far into the night, came from the
effect on the part of these things of so exactly crowning and comforting
I couldn't have said what momentous young dream. I might have been
<i>right</i> to myself—as against some danger of<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_281" id="Page_281"></SPAN></span> being wrong, and if I had
uttered my main comment on it all this must certainly have been "I told
you so, I told you so!" What I had told myself was of course that the
impression would be of the richest and at the same time of the most
insinuating, and this after all didn't sail very close; but I had had
before me from far back a picture (which might have been hung in the
very sky,) and here was every touch in it repeated with a charm. Had I
ever till then known what a charm <i>was</i>?—a large, a local, a social
charm, leaving out that of a few individuals. It was at all events, this
mystery, one's property—that of one's mind; and so, once for all, I
helped myself to it from my balcony and tucked it away. It counted all
immensely for practice in taking in.</p>
<p>I profited by that, no doubt, still a few days later, at an hour that
has never ceased to recur to me all my life as crucial, as supremely
determinant. The travelling-carriage had stopped at a village on the way
from Lyons to Geneva, between which places there was then no railway; a
village now nameless to me and which was not yet Nantua, in the Jura,
where we were to spend the night. I was stretched at my ease on a couch
formed by a plank laid from seat to seat and covered by a small mattress
and other draperies; an indulgence founded on my visitation of fever,
which, though not now checking our progress, assured<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_282" id="Page_282"></SPAN></span> me, in our little
band, these invidious luxuries. It may have been that as my body was
pampered so I was moved equally to pamper my spirit, for my
appropriative instinct had neglected no item of our case from the
first—by which I mean from the moment of our getting under way, that
morning, with much elaboration, in the court of the old Hôtel de
l'Univers at Lyons, where we had arrived two days before and awaited my
good pleasure during forty-eight hours that overflowed for us perhaps
somewhat less than any pair of days yet, but as regards which it was
afterwards my complacent theory that my contemplative rest at the
ancient inn, with all the voices and graces of the past, of the court,
of the French scheme of manners in general and of ancient inns, as such,
in particular, had prepared me not a little, when I should in due course
hear of it, for what was meant by the <i>vie de province</i>—that expression
which was to become later on so <i>toned</i>, as old fine colour and old fine
opinion are toned. It was the romance of travel, and it was the
<i>suggested</i> romance, flushed with suppositions and echoes, with
implications and memories, memories of one's "reading," save the mark!
all the more that our proper bestowal required two carriages, in which
we were to "post," ineffable thought, and which bristled with every kind
of contradiction of common experience. The <span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_283" id="Page_283"></SPAN></span>postilion, in a costume
rather recalling, from the halls of Ferrero, that of my débardeur,
bobbed up and down, the Italian courier, Jean Nadali, black-whiskered
and acquired in London, sat in the rumble along with Annette Godefroi of
Metz, fresh-coloured, broad-faced and fair-braided, a "bonne Lorraine"
if ever there was, acquired in New York: I enjoy the echo of their very
names, neither unprecedented nor irreproducible, yet which melt together
for me, to intensification, with all the rest; with the recovered
moment, above all, of our pause at the inn-door in the cool sunshine—we
had mounted and mounted—during which, in my absurdly cushioned state, I
took in, as I have hinted, by a long slow swig that testified to some
power of elbow, a larger draught of the wine of perception than any I
had ever before owed to a single throb of that faculty. The village
street, which was not as village streets hitherto known to me, opened
out, beyond an interval, into a high place on which perched an object
also a fresh revelation and that I recognised with a deep joy—though a
joy that was doubtless partly the sense of fantastic ease, of abated
illness and of cold chicken—as at once a castle and a ruin. The only
castle within my ken had been, by my impression, the machicolated villa
above us the previous summer at New Brighton, and as I had seen no
structure rise beyond that<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_284" id="Page_284"></SPAN></span> majesty so I had seen none abased to the
dignity of ruin. Loose boards were no expression of this latter phase,
and I was already somehow aware of a deeper note in the crumbled castle
than any note of the solid one—little experience as I had had either of
solidity. At a point in the interval, at any rate, below the slope on
which this memento stood, was a woman in a black bodice, a white shirt
and a red petticoat, engaged in some sort of field labour, the effect of
whose intervention just then is almost beyond my notation. I knew her
for a peasant in sabots—the first peasant I had ever beheld, or beheld
at least to such advantage. She had in the whole aspect an enormous
value, emphasising with her petticoat's tonic strength the truth that
sank in as I lay—the truth of one's embracing there, in all the
presented character of the scene, an amount of character I had felt no
scene present, not even the one I had raked from the Hôtel Westminster;
the sort of thing that, even as mere fulness and mere weight, would sit
most warmly in the mind. Supremely, in that ecstatic vision, was
"Europe," sublime synthesis, expressed and guaranteed to me—as if by a
mystic gage, which spread all through the summer air, that I should now,
only now, never lose it, hold the whole consistency of it: up to that
time it might have been but mockingly whisked before me. Europe mightn't
have been<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_285" id="Page_285"></SPAN></span> flattered, it was true, at my finding her thus most signified
and summarised in a sordid old woman scraping a mean living and an
uninhabitable tower abandoned to the owls; that was but the momentary
measure of a small sick boy, however, and the virtue of the impression
was proportioned to my capacity. It made a bridge over to more things
than I then knew.</p>
<hr />
<p><span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_286" id="Page_286"></SPAN></span></p>
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