<h2><SPAN name="Letter_6" id="Letter_6"></SPAN>Letter 6.</h2>
<p class="right"><span class="smcap">London.</span></p>
<p><span class="smcap">Dear Charley</span>:—</p>
<p class="text">All round London there are the most exquisite
villages or towns, full of charming retreats, boxes of
wealthy tradesmen, and some very fine rows of brick
and stone residences, with gardens in front. I am
amused to see almost every house having a name.
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_47" id="Page_47" title="47"></SPAN></span>Thus you find one house called, on the gateway,
Hamilton Villa, the next Hawthorne Lodge, whilst
opposite their fellows rejoice in the names, Pelham
House, Cranborne Cottage; and so it is with hundreds
of neat little domiciles. I think the road up
to St. John's Wood is one of the prettiest I have
seen; and there are in it perhaps two hundred habitations,
each having its <i>sobriquet.</i> Since writing
to you last we have been to Camberwell, a very
pretty place, two or three miles from the city. We
called on a gentleman who had a party that night,
and we were politely invited, and spent an agreeable
evening. The supper was elegant, and the ladies
were quite inquisitive as to our social manners.
One gentleman present had a son in Wisconsin, and
he seemed to fancy that, as that state was in the
United States, it was pretty much like the rest of
the country. We told him that Wisconsin was
about as much like New York and Massachusetts
as Brighton, in 1851, was like what it was one hundred
years ago. When we talk with well-educated
persons here, we are much amused at their entire
unacquaintedness with American geography and
history. I think an importation of Morse's School
Geography would be of great service. We very
often lose our patience when we hear about the
great danger of life in America. I find very intelligent
and respectable persons who fancy that life is
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_48" id="Page_48" title="48"></SPAN></span>held by a slight tenure in the Union, and that law
and order are almost unknown. Now, the first
week we were in London the papers teemed with
accounts of murders in various parts of England.
One newspaper detailed no less than eleven oases
of murder, or executions on account of murders.
Poison, however, seems just at present the prevailing
method by which men and women are removed.</p>
<p class="text">As to accidents in travel, we, no doubt, have our
full share; but since our arrival in England the
railroad trains have had some pretty rough shakings,
and the results in loss of life and limb would have
passed for quite ugly enough, even had they happened
in the west. I very much wish you could
have been with us on Easter Monday, when we
passed the day at Greenwich, and were at the renowned
Greenwich Fair, which lasts for three days.
The scene of revelry takes place in the Park, a
royal one, and really a noble one. Here all the riff-raff
and bobtail of London repair in their finery,
and have a time. You can form no notion of the
affair; it cannot be described. The upper part of
the Park, towards the Royal Observatory, is very
steep, and down this boys and girls, men and women,
have a roll. Such scenes as are here to be witnessed
we cannot match. Nothing can exceed the
doings that occur. All the public houses swarm,
and in no spot have I ever seen so many places for
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_49" id="Page_49" title="49"></SPAN></span>drinking as are here. The working-men of London,
and apprentices, with wires and sweethearts,
all turn out Easter Monday. It seems as though all
the horses, carts, chaises, and hackney coaches of
the city were on the road. We saw several enormous
coal wagons crammed tightly with boys and
girls. On the fine heath, or down, that skirts the
Park, are hundreds of donkeys, and you are invited
to take a halfpenny, penny, or twopenny ride. All
sorts of gambling are to be seen. One favorite
game with the youngsters was to have a tobacco
box, full of coppers, stuck on a stick standing in a
hole, and then, for a halfpenny paid to the proprietor,
you are entitled to take a shy at the mark. If
it falls into the hole, you lose; if you knock it off,
and away from the hole, you take it. It <i>requires,</i> I
fancy, much adroitness and experience to make any
thing at "shying" at the "bacca box." At night,
Greenwich is all alive—life is out of London and
in the fair. But let the traveller who has to return
to town beware. The road is full of horses and
vehicles, driven by drunken men and boys; and, for
four or five miles, you can imagine that a city is besieged,
and that the inhabitants are flying from the
sword. O, such weary-looking children as we saw
that day! One favorite amusement was to draw a
little wooden instrument quick over the coat of
another person, when it produces a noise precisely
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_50" id="Page_50" title="50"></SPAN></span>like that of a torn garment. Hundreds of these
machines were in the hands of the urchins who
crowded the Park. Here, for the first time, I saw
the veritable gypsy of whose race we have read so
much in Bòrrow's Zincali. The women are very
fine looking, and some of the girls were exquisitely
beautiful. They are a swarthy-looking set, and
seem to be a cross of Indian and Jew. Those we
saw were proper wiry-looking fellows. One or two
of the men were nattily dressed, with fancy silk
handkerchiefs. They live in tents, and migrate
through the midland counties, but I believe are not
as numerous as they were thirty years ago. You
will not soon forget how we were pleased with the
memoirs of Bamfield Moore Carew, who was once
known as their king in Great Britain. I wonder
that book has never been reprinted in America. I
am pretty sure that Greenwich Park would please
your taste. I think the view from the Royal Observatory,
and from whence longitude is reckoned, is
one of the grandest I have ever seen. You get a
fine view of the noble palace once the royal residence,
but now the Sailor's Home. You see the Thames,
with its immense burden, and, through the mist, the
great city. As to the Hospital, we shall leave that
for another excursion: we came to Greenwich at
present merely to witness Easter Fair, and it will
not soon be forgotten by any of us.</p>
<p class="center">Yours, &c.,</p>
<p class="right"><span class="smcap">james.</span></p>
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