<h2> CHAPTER XIV <br/> <span class="s08">We Make for Elephant Island</span> </h2>
<p>During the middle watch commencing at midnight of
March 5 it froze hard, but the pack was more open,
and, after running north for some time, we altered
course and made more to the westward, Commander
Wild’s idea being to skirt the pack as far as possible.
We entered the ice again in the morning. During the
previous few days remarkably little animal life had
greeted our eyes; there was practically nothing to break
the awful, monotonous desolation; but on this day we
saw a single Adelie penguin, dignifiedly in command of
a solitary hummock—looking for all the world, so old-timers
said, like the skipper of an old-world windjammer—one
of the kind who wore a frock coat and tall hat:
a gaff-topsail hat, as they used to call them—even when
rounding Cape Horn in a rip-snorter—loftily conning
his ship through the smother and haloed in his own
enormous dignity. Desirous of disturbing this colossal
equanimity—and I have seen honest Kirk elders on a
Sabbath morning who looked frivolous by comparison—we
made rude remarks to the bird, who treated us with
lofty disdain, and beyond showing a supercilious interest—as
a pretty waitress in a café might show to a chafing
client—took no further notice of us, until Captain
Worsley, who is rather clever at mimicry, gave a loud
“caa-aa,” which started Master Penguin’s hoops and
lifted him from his god-like aloofness. He took to
flight with all speed, casting scared glances backwards
as he went, as if he thought the special Antarctic devil
were after him. Still laughing at the ludicrous spectacle,
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN id='Page_161' name='Page_161' href='#Page_161'>161</SPAN></span>
we tied up to a large floe and iced ship, an operation
occupying the greater part of the afternoon, and causing
us much amusement by reason of Jeffrey’s agility. He
offered to catch any ice that was thrown to him, and we
were resolved to beat him—much, I fear, being thrown
at him. Nevertheless, he held his own pretty well, spite
of the thunderous fusillade with which he was assailed.</p>
<p>Query ventured on to the floe on this occasion and
betrayed great interest in a killer whale that was swimming
about near at hand. He barked himself hoarse at
the monster without causing it any perturbation; but of
a sudden, as if bored by his exhibition of ill-feeling, the
killer rose quite close to the floe and “blew” for all the
world like a Bowery tough spitting disdain, whereupon
Query tucked tail between his quarters and bolted like
a scared rabbit.</p>
<p>The following day was marked by an increase in the
cold and a tightening of the ice. I spent the day in proper
sailorizing work, under the excellent tutelage of old
Mac; helping him to repair the mizen tack and secure
the gaff. He was a very capable instructor, and from
him I learnt how to perform most intricate tricks of
seamanship—he was always patient and ready to answer
questions, and I look on him to this day as my sea-daddy.
He had a way of imparting information that left
a definite impression in the mind, and many a University
professor might have benefited by adopting his plan.
Coming to very heavy pack we had to interrupt our
westward course and once more to head away to the
nor’ard, where we passed large bergs.</p>
<p>Sunrise of extraordinary beauty heralded yet another
day. Beautiful though the dawning was we considered
it pessimistically, for a fair dawn down in these latitudes
so often portends a foul day: our prognostications were
fulfilled, for by eight o’clock it was blowing and snowing
to beat the band. The day grew dull and ominous
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN id='Page_162' name='Page_162' href='#Page_162'>162</SPAN></span>
by contrast with the early brightness; and away on the
horizon, owing to the unnatural refraction, strange black
shapes appeared like towering mountains and frowning
coast-line. It required much mental concentration to
avoid giving a false alarm of land, so vivid was the impression
conveyed by this Antarctic mirage. Darkness
closing in on top of the flurry made it dangerous to
proceed, and the <i>Quest</i> was accordingly hove-to for the
night.</p>
<p>I was called to keep the middle watch, and as I had
evidently convinced the after-guard that I was beginning
to understand my job, charge of the ship was given to
me during this watch; I was left alone on the lookout.
Orders were left with me by Mr. Wilkins to call Mr.
Jeffrey at once if the ship drifted too near the ice. The
ship was hove-to in a large pool and it was still blowing
with considerable violence from the south-west. There
was not a soul to talk to or to borrow confidence from,
and all around and about me was that vast cold wilderness
of ice. The loneliness was a sort of wall that
seemed to shut me off from all my kind. A salutary
lesson in man’s minuteness as compared with gigantic
natural forces!</p>
<p>We drifted slowly across the pool, and I, feeling
that we might come to harm by hitting heavy ice, called
Mr. Jeffrey at a quarter to one. He promptly came on
the bridge—his presence sent a warm glow clean through
me, and my sighs of relief must have ascended to highest
heaven. But there was really no cause for alarm, for
at one o’clock we came slowly alongside the ice, as if
we had been warped into dock, and lay snugly alongside
as though in a peaceful harbour. But at 2 a.m.
I called Dell and got below—where even sleeping berth-mates
seemed genial companions.</p>
<p>Way was got on the ship again during the morning
watch, and we proceeded through fairly heavy pack
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN id='Page_163' name='Page_163' href='#Page_163'>163</SPAN></span>
which was open in places and dotted with big bergs.
The temperature fell considerably at midday, and when
on lookout at the masthead, the cut of the wind was
bitingly fierce. In the afternoon the floes were larger
still and hummocky, and small groups of penguins
mounted solemn guard on many of them. The sun
shone at intervals through a very hazy sky, and the
refraction was even more pronounced than ever, the
most astonishingly fantastic shapes appearing on the
horizon and sparkling with a silvery light in the sun.
Once again we hove-to for the night.</p>
<p>Followed a strenuous day with Dr. Macklin and
Naisbitt, tallying and restowing stores, which was not
a bad job for cold weather. Outboard the outlook was
not inviting: the floes being large and heavy—old
Weddell Sea ice, they said it was—and the intervening
water frozen over thinly with young ice, which naturally
delayed our by no means considerable speed still more.
The temperature had dropped to 9 F. At 10 a.m. a
noisy commotion on deck fetched us up into the open
like corks popping out of a bottle, curiosity overcoming
our sense of duty. We found several of the more active-minded
of the crew chasing penguins round and round
a big floe. The game was a pure farce, the birds
stolidly refusing to leave their harbourage, and showing
a clever readiness in dodging their pursuers, twisting
this way and that like professional footballers, until
Argles started playing footer, too. He hurled himself
full-stretch at one penguin, tackled it low in approved
Rugby style, and fetched it down, squawking and vociferous
as a fishwife. The catch was brought aboard
alive, and Query displayed canine curiosity in its quaintness,
but the penguin was a match for the dog, and
once again he had to retreat with his tail between his
legs.</p>
<p>At eight p.m. the bosun and I took a sounding; it
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN id='Page_164' name='Page_164' href='#Page_164'>164</SPAN></span>
was intensely cold, and by the time we had wound in the
last fathom I found myself frozen to the rail. The cold
also burst the water-jacket of the paraffin engine that ran
the main dynamo, so it became necessary to start the
spare dynamo in the engine-room, to run which there
was a small steam-engine.</p>
<p>Throughout the night we lay to in rapidly freezing
ice, and the skipper grew concerned, for the outlook
displeased him greatly. To be frozen in hard and fast
would be fatal, consequently just enough way to prevent
this happening was maintained on the ship; and then,
at 4.30, a full head of steam was raised and an attempt
made to get clear. But though we backed and rammed
and stopped, and backed and rammed again, making a
furious bobbery all the time, the ship, shaking fore and
aft at the impact of her bows on the thickening ice and
the harsh grind and rattle of the broken stuff filling the
air, we made paltry progress, advancing a bare mile
during the entire morning watch. To burn coal at that
rate without any commensurate progress was foreign
to our best interests, so we gave up the attempt and
lay to alongside a convenient floe, there to await the
pleasure of the elements, and whistle for a favouring
breeze. That breeze coming, we drifted to the northward
with the ice, which during the forenoon gradually
opened. So precious was our coal becoming now that
the small quantity required to run the steam-driven
dynamo could not be spared, and as the paraffin-run
dynamo was out of action, I busied myself in filling and
trimming lamps for the ship.</p>
<p>When I went on watch at midnight it was still blowing
very strongly from the south. The mere words
convey no adequate impression of what an Antarctic
gale is like; but if you imagine a northerly blizzard
blowing its hardest and then magnify all the unrest and
bitter discomfort and annoying insistence of the driving
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN id='Page_165' name='Page_165' href='#Page_165'>165</SPAN></span>
sleet and noisy wind by about a hundred, you may
gain some idea of the real thing. We were fast frozen
into the ice, which every now and then bore against
our sides with an impressive and somewhat alarming
squeaking sound that was very weird, underrunning the
main diapason roar of the storm as it did.</p>
<p>The gale was not long-lived; with the flush of dawn
the wind subsided, and the morning broke beautifully
clear and calm. All hands turned to after breakfast
to ice ship—and there was ice enough and to spare, for
even the young ice that had recently formed was now
thicker and whiter and older looking, and seemed to be
merging into the main pack. Certain of us busied ourselves
in squaring off the decks—ridding them of snow,
coiling down ropes fairly and stowing away loose gear;
and whilst we were so employed a big killer came up
close alongside, breaking the ice as he came. These
killers are particularly evil-looking brutes, and the
nearer view of them you get, the nastier they seem. It
must have been a killer that swallowed Jonah—this
fellow seemed almost capable of swallowing the <i>Quest</i>.</p>
<p>In assisting Mr. Douglas and Mr. Jeffrey to make
magnetic observations on the floe during the rest of
the morning, working in the hold with Dr. Macklin
after lunch and then pumping out the always filling
bilges with old Mac, putting a harbour-stow on the
topsail and so on, time did not hang very heavily on my
hands. My leisure time I spent in heaving chunks of
ice along the floe for the edification and amusement of
Query, who never tired of chasing the fragments and
took a keen delight in the vigorous exercise. Then, at
night, a sounding was taken; but after the lead touched
bottom the steam winding-engine gave out and we had
to leave our cast on the sea’s bed until the necessary
repairs were effected; and then, as a gigantic red moon
came slowly sailing up the sky, we sat back and watched
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN id='Page_166' name='Page_166' href='#Page_166'>166</SPAN></span>
the lovely picture it made of the spectral ice that was
all about.</p>
<p>Being now, as it were, in dock, regular watches
were abandoned: all hands turned to at eight o’clock
and continued working until 1 p.m., after which their
time was more or less their own for purposes of recreation,
with one man standing a two-hour watch during
the night, like an ordinary anchor watch aboard an
ordinary sea-going ship. The ice was now thickening
rapidly; the temperature having dropped to 5 F., but
despite this, the water rose steadily in our hold, and
first thing in the forenoon Mac, Dell and myself pumped
out the ship. Various duties, such as preparing the oil
stoves for the boats—very necessary precautions remember,
for the threat of being nipped and sunk was
very real—overhauling the lamp-room and trimming the
lamps occupied my day; but before dinner we younger
ones climbed overside and had a rousing game of football
on the ice. A lone, lorn penguin, interested in that
queerly curious way these birds adopt towards happenings
beyond their normal experience, slithered near and
begged to be enrolled in our company. Quite unabashed,
it held its own against all our tacklings and
charges; and when Query took a hand in the game, it
chased him incontinently all over the floe—a most
comical sight. It was what the Yankees would call
<i>some</i> football. Penguins and dogs do not usually figure
in a Cup Final, nor do the players fall through the ice,
as Naisbitt did, at places where floes imperfectly joined
up with one another. But it was invigorating exercise
enough, and after the close confinement of shipboard,
very welcome to men who looked on exercise as a religious
rite. We managed to pull Naisbitt out, and he
was really none the worse for his adventure. Our football
was composed of tied-together gunny-sacks that
had held ship’s bread. Whilst we played others
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN id='Page_167' name='Page_167' href='#Page_167'>167</SPAN></span>
worked; Kerr, for instance, repaired the burst water-jacket
of the dynamo engine, so that we were able to
run it again and get a light that at least made darkness
visible below.</p>
<p>I slept like a log that night, and found myself reluctant
to turn out when I was called at 6 a.m., but needs
must; and when I got to the bridge I saw the outlook
was more promising. The ice was slacker, its nip on our
sides less pronounced and the floes were beginning to
come apart—a welcome sign. The run of a growing
swell caused them to bend visibly, and there was much
groaning and snapping, so that one might easily have
thought the ice a great living monster that was trying to
burst its bonds. Throughout the day, with a slightly
higher temperature, the ice opened up more and more.
We lost our sounding lead, though—the wire parted
owing to the strain—and we had to resign ourselves
to the fact with such equanimity as we could command.
By evening we lay in a pool of open water, the nip was
gone, and we looked forward hopefully to getting under
way again on the morrow.</p>
<p>But our hopes proved to be nothing more than ropes
of sand; the following day, although the pack was distinguishably
thinning, it was still far too close for us
to go ahead. A strong gale bellowed furiously from
the north-west, but, being from the northerly quarter,
it was actually warmer than usual—though its force
was so great that the impression conveyed to the senses
was that the temperature was falling. In the forenoon
Dell rigged up the dredging machine and for Mr.
Wilkins’s benefit let out 3,300 metres of wire, with
dredge and deep-sea thermometer attached. It required
the whole afternoon to get it inboard again, with the
steam-winch fussing away, very certainly, no doubt,
but also very slowly—so slowly, indeed, that after a
while, becoming exasperated, we man-handled it and
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN id='Page_168' name='Page_168' href='#Page_168'>168</SPAN></span>
made better progress. It was pretty ticklish work, for
the dredge wire was constantly being fouled by small
floes, and Mr. Douglas out-Blondined Blondin by his
dexterity in balancing himself on the wobbling floes
and keeping the wire clear with an extended boat-hook.
The result justified the exertion, for the dredge contained
fifty-seven specimens of quartzite, tuffs and so
on; but there was no living matter in the haul, though
the rocks were plentifully threaded with worm-cells.</p>
<p>Next day, thanks to a falling thermometer, the ice
had thickened, and the floes were compacted once more
into a solid mass. Some of these floes, scattered here
and there like gaunt icy islands in a sea of ice, were
very big, with noticeable hummocks uprearing from the
main mass. As a strong southerly wind was blowing,
which was favourable to our purpose, we got busy and
set topsail and staysail. Seen from outboard we must
have looked much more like an ice-yacht than a sea-going
ship, I fancy; but under the weight of this canvas
we edged a very slow and very difficult way to the north.
Our movement was actually with the ice rather than
from it—we were acting as motive power to the entire
ice-field. Although the ship was officially under way,
there was no difficulty in slipping outboard and walking
on the ice; and Commander Wild and Captain Worsley,
together with Watts, did this. During their promenade
they happened upon a large sea-leopard asleep, and the
skipper promptly killed it, bringing its head triumphantly
back to Mr. Wilkins as spoil of war.</p>
<p>Many of us went for walks during the forenoon,
and I took several photographs of the <i>Quest</i> in her icebound
condition. She drifted into a pool of open water
during the afternoon, and the skipper and Dr. Macklin
went out on the floe with a line to pull her alongside,
because we desired to play football again. We found
a large, convenient floe and had a hectic game, beating
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN id='Page_169' name='Page_169' href='#Page_169'>169</SPAN></span>
the other side 7-4. It is astonishing what a lot of confused
exercise you can get out of football on the ice—much
more than during ordinary games, even on the
muddiest days. It’s a fine tonic for depression and
ennui and lethargy, and the various ills shipboard life is
apt to breed. You have to exert yourself terrifically to
make any real headway, and the ball, weighing about
a ton when thoroughly sodden, needs the driving force
of a steam ram behind it to move it at all. Our side
was composed of Dr. Macklin, Mr. Douglas, the
skipper, Naisbitt (cook’s mate) and myself. Our opponents
were the Chief, the Second, Ross and Young
(stokers), Major Carr and Watts.</p>
<p>Turning from play to work, we set the squaresail at
6 p.m. and began to move; but almost as we started we
had to lower the canvas in a hurry, to avoid what might
have been a serious collision with a large floe ahead,
and our progress was stopped. In the event of opportunity
offering for getting under way during the night,
I kept the binnacle lights trimmed and ready for
immediate use.</p>
<p>Another day came, to show no practical alteration
in the ice-conditions. The wind came away strongly
from the S.S.E. and the outlook was bad, for the sky
showed no vestige of a “water-sky,” and with a lowered
temperature the ice was freezing more thickly than ever.
Very grim conditions again; but in the Antarctic you
don’t grouse about circumstances—you make the best
of them, and thank your lucky stars when each succeeding
day finds your ship still afloat and not crushed to
flinders in the pack.</p>
<p>Whatever else we were doing, we were certainly
making progress either with the ice or through it. We
had made about ninety miles since working into our
frozen dock, and that was something to be thankful for.</p>
<p>After breakfast I went for a walk with Dr. Macklin
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN id='Page_170' name='Page_170' href='#Page_170'>170</SPAN></span>
and Major Carr. There was a large berg in the distance
which we wanted to inspect at close quarters, and this
appeared to be a promising opportunity. But we could
not get quite close up to it because of the scattered
character of the ice in its vicinity, though from our position
we could see it making its way through the pack,
leaving a long lane of clear water behind as it came.
The <i>Quest</i> bore up against the pack, throwing broken ice
from the bows as a ship throws up spray; and we
admired the spectacle—myself a little awestruck—never
realizing that Commander Wild was feeling the gravest
anxiety aboard, fearing lest the iceberg should charge
the <i>Quest</i> and damage her badly. Fortunately the
menace passed more than half a mile astern and then
disappeared over the northern horizon.</p>
<p>These movements of icebergs in the pack are caused
by strong currents under the ice which grip the vast
submerged portions and urge the giant masses relentlessly
onward through everything that lies in their path;
and when, owing to the wind or other circumstances,
the pack is moving in an opposite direction you get a
wonderful illusion of uncontrolled speed and power
charging blindly forward.</p>
<p>Getting back aboard, Dell and myself cleared the
wire of the Kelvin sounding machine. After a hearty
lunch we enjoyed another game of football with a more
respectable ball this time—a ball composed of a canvas
bag stuffed with cotton waste, which didn’t take so much
out of our feet and shins. We found a perfectly flat
floe whereon to play, though owing to the swell causing
the ice to bend and undulate we got a new effect: it was
like playing football on a rubber floor.</p>
<p>Throughout the night a sharp lookout was kept for
bergs bearing down upon us: a menace of the Polar
wastes not often taken into consideration, I fancy, by
those who do not know the peculiarities of those parts.
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN id='Page_171' name='Page_171' href='#Page_171'>171</SPAN></span>
Several such bergs were in the vicinity and one crossed
our bows rather too closely to be pleasant. The temperature
was rising during the night, and, in anticipation of
a start, the hands were turned to at 6 a.m., with instructions
to ice ship. The pack was now much more open,
and the engines were gingerly started at six bells—seven
o’clock. Once more we were definitely under way,
forging ahead with innumerable stoppages and much
wheel-work, with “Hard a-port!” “Hard a-starboard!”
“Midships!” flying from the watch-officer’s
mouth like machine-gun fire. Tediously we wound in
and out among the floes; but presently, coming to a
clear lane of water, sail was set, which quickened our
speed, and by eleven o’clock in the morning we were
pretty nearly clear of the pack. During the day I
counted fifty-six bergs, most of them large.</p>
<p>With an overcast sky and a strong easterly wind
blowing, another dawn came. As the day continued
the wind increased to a moderate gale. Commander
Wild had practically proved to his own satisfaction that
Ross’s “Appearance of land” was merely a flight of
fancy, and he now decided to make for Elephant Island—primarily
to obtain blubber for fuel. But apart from
any material reason I think there is no doubt that he
was inspired by a longing to see again the place where
he had spent those famous four and a half months with
the survivors of the ill-fated <i>Endurance</i> expedition. All
aboard who had borne part and lot in that memorable
adventure were imbued with the same desire. We
headed to the westward and, with a stiff breeze to help
us, bowled along at a merry six knots—for us, real
clipper speed. But at 5 p.m. we came suddenly on very
heavy pack and, dropping our squaresail with alacrity
in order to avoid disaster, eased down for the night.
With the morning we set sail again, amid extraordinary
surroundings. The entire ship was sheeted in ice:
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN id='Page_172' name='Page_172' href='#Page_172'>172</SPAN></span>
upperworks, bridge and deck-house appeared to be
determined to give an imitation of their environment.
Ice was everywhere: bulwarks like hummocks, monstrous
icicles pendant from every salient. The deck
itself was overlaid with the frozen stuff; and all tackles,
ropes and hamper were grotesquely distorted; whilst
the rigging was simply solid. The <i>Quest</i> was completely
transmogrified, like a fairy ship at first glance;
but, owing to the freezing up, anything but a ship of
dreams when it came to handling her. To go aloft
meant breaking a way like pioneers—and, my! it <i>was</i>
cold. Mac and I shovelled what seemed like half the
frozen Antarctic overboard during the morning watch,
and even then the other half was still aboard. Breaking
off from this necessary task, we set the squaresail,
which seemed scared at the changed appearance of the
ship, for it took charge for several hectic minutes, slamming
and banging—hammering its blocks against the
bulwarks as though determined to sink the <i>Quest</i> out of
hand. We philosophically decided that the sail was
lending a hand in clearing the ice from the upperworks,
and I must say the ice-splinters flew vigorously. Being
under shell-fire was a small matter by comparison. As
a foot or so of water was sluicing across the decks every
time the ship rolled, work was not easy; but this water
was nothing to worry about, it was merely the <i>Quest’s</i>
happy little way of acting up to her usual reputation,
though she did not lift big water over her rails. It
was blowing hard and the cold was terrific as the wind
came away from the southward; indeed, I believe that
this day and the following—March 23 and 24—were
about the worst we had experienced. Certain of the old-timers
wondered what on earth had ever tempted them
down again to the southern seas. Commander Wild said
that any man who went Antarctic exploring once was
mad, if he went twice he was an adjectived idiot, so that
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN id='Page_173' name='Page_173' href='#Page_173'>173</SPAN></span>
he himself—having made five voyages—was competent
to inhabit an asylum all to himself. He said this with
trimmings—not with flowers.</p>
<p>Conditions were more than a little unpleasant—quite
enough to ruffle the normally placid calm of our
souls. Every minute some whipping wisp of spindrift
came slogging in our faces, and everything
was saltily damp. The only place where it was
possible to be even moderately dry was in one’s
bunk; and the <i>Quest</i> did her best to heave a man out
into the slopping water that flooded the floors below,
even when he coiled down in blanket-haven. Poor
Query suffered a lot. Dogs may be philosophers, but
their philosophy deserts them under such conditions
as those we endured when working along the edge of
the pack. And although we were salted, pickled indeed,
any amount of the people—even the hardiest veterans—succumbed
to <i>mal-de-mer</i>; or, as this particular brand
was even more atrocious than seasickness, let’s call it
<i>mal-de-Quest</i>.</p>
<p>Wearing ship at midnight under these conditions
among Antarctic combers was horrible. After a while
we hove her to under a topsail, her head pointed to the
east; and under these circumstances she revelled in
dirtiness. Her rolls were jerky and fitful—so that, even
below a fellow felt as if he’d been dropped down a
bottomless pit with a long rope attached, which tautened
at the unexpected moment and nearly jerked the teeth
up through the skull. Whilst wondering what it was all
about, another heave and lurch pitched him out of his
bunk, and so on.</p>
<p>But even the worst of gales do not endure for ever;
and after a while conditions improved. A great orgy
of straightening up followed, for everything was filthy
and saturated. Then we sighted land from aloft, what
time the topsail was being made fast. After living in a
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN id='Page_174' name='Page_174' href='#Page_174'>174</SPAN></span>
wilderness of ice and water for so long my heart warmed
to that good sight, for I had begun to wonder whether
land really existed at all.</p>
<p>By seven o’clock on the morning of March 25, we
had Elephant Island on the starboard bow and Clarence
Rocks to port. The summits of the peaks were hidden
by low clouds, but it was perfectly good land, and heart-warming
to a degree, even though snow-flurries frequently
hid it from sight. It was something stable in a
whirling world of instability.</p>
<p>To the old-timers it was like sighting the Promised
Land itself, I fancy. Those who had been with Shackleton
in the <i>Endurance</i> expedition spent all their spare
time staring through binoculars at remembered landmarks—swapping
reminiscences and recollections.
They shouted and pointed at Cape Valentine, where the
draggled survivors of that unfortunate expedition landed
after being two hard years adrift in the ice desert, and
where Shackleton, who had not slept for eight days,
coiled down on the shingle of the beach and slept for
eighteen hours without moving an eyelid. We others
worked, getting rid of the fresh accumulations of ice
and taking running soundings as the ship went forward.
It was necessary to hack the purchase blocks clear of
their congealment before the rope would run over the
sheaves. The evening favoured us with an exceptional
mirage—with vast icebergs floating apparently in a sky
of purest gold, and shoals of spouting whales swimming
in between them, most marvellous to behold. The
ensuing sunset was like something by Doré: both the
islands in sight seemed to be blazing with fire, and the
sky was a flaming crimson, awe-inspiring in its magnificence.
I wished I could paint so that I could have
transferred that memorable sight to enduring canvas,
for my poor words entirely fail to give an adequate
description of the atmospheric miracle.
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN id='Page_175' name='Page_175' href='#Page_175'>175</SPAN></span></p>
<p>By four o’clock the following morning, when I went
on the bridge, we were coasting along the shore of
Elephant Island, which we did not approach too closely,
for obvious reasons. And now our minds were filled
with the history of that desolate rock; it was the topic of
general conversation. They told of how Commander
Wild had cheered and brought nineteen men through
four of the most difficult months in all the terrible
history of Antarctic navigation. They told of how
Shackleton, with Worsley and four other stalwarts, had
made that amazing passage from Elephant Island to
South Georgia in an open boat, and how subsequently
the staunch-souled Boss had left no stone unturned till
he had brought his stranded comrades back from Elephant
Island to civilization. It was a narrative to warm
the blood and to make one glory in the pride of race,
for it was an epic, no less, told simply as it was, in curt
expressions for the most part, without gestures but
modestly, in the way that Britons have when narrating
heroic deeds.</p>
<p>A high, precipitous coast met our gaze as the ship
ploughed forward, with high-soaring crags and a
general machicolated effect that made the whole place
show as a gigantic mediæval fort; whilst between the
jutting crags showed frequent glaciers and glimpses of
the towering ice-cap that tops the island. A picture of
stern majesty it showed to our ice-wearied eyes. And,
too, on the port beam was Cornwallis Island, whilst
on the bow were five smaller islands, as though whoever
threw the land down there had sprinkled a few handfuls
extra for luck.</p>
<p>After breakfast the boatswain and myself re-marked
the deep sea leadline, and made a clearance forward to
have everything in readiness to let go our long-disused
anchor at the appointed time. We rounded-to in a
small bay, some hundred yards or so from the sheer
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN id='Page_176' name='Page_176' href='#Page_176'>176</SPAN></span>
face of a glacier end, and there dropped our hook and
came to rest for a blissful while. Blissful, I mean, by
comparison with recent episodes; though no doubt there
are some who might count Elephant Island a curious
sort of a pleasure resort. But all things go by contrast,
and to our tired eyes the most romantic of South Sea
Islands could hardly have appeared more desirable.</p>
<p>Magnificent, lofty crags held us in on two sides;
the scenery indeed was so striking as to be almost overwhelming;
and on the placid water the <i>Quest</i> floated like
a swan. It was possible at last to lie down without
holding on, and for that blessed boon we returned heartfelt
thanks.</p>
<p>The party detailed to go ashore was lowering away
a boat in preparation, when Query, who had almost
gone mad ever since land was sighted and smelt, in
his eagerness to get ashore overdid it and dived overboard.
We let the boat go by the run and secured
him—almost frozen, but really none the worse for his
bath. Commander Wild went away in charge of the
boat, and to my great delight included me in the party.
Before we landed he shot a sea-leopard that showed
pugnacious symptoms. They can be very terrifying in
the water, these evil-avised brutes. We tied up to a big
boulder right underneath the towering blue face of the
glacier, and whilst walking ashore it struck me how
crazy and rotten that ice-face looked. It seemed as if
any minute might fetch down a few hundred tons of it
on top of the boat; but we were used to ice by then, and
didn’t worry.</p>
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN id='Page_177' name='Page_177' href='#Page_177'>177</SPAN></span>
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