<SPAN name="startofbook"></SPAN>
<div id="cover" class="fig">>
<ANTIMG id="coverpage" src="images/cover.jpg" alt="Amphibians and Reptiles in Captivity" width-obs="500" height-obs="782" /></div>
<div class="box">
<h1><span class="ss">AMPHIBIANS <br/><span class="smaller">AND</span> <br/>REPTILES <br/><span class="smaller">IN</span> <br/>CAPTIVITY</span></h1>
<p class="center"><span class="ss">Tom R. Johnson
<br/>Robert N. Bader
<br/>Donald J. Coxwell</span></p>
<p class="tbcenter"><span class="ss">SPECIAL ISSUE NUMBER 2</span>
<br/><i>SEPTEMBER 1975</i></p>
<p class="center"><i>Cover design, booklet format, and photographs by</i> Tom R. Johnson</p>
</div>
<p class="center"><span class="ss">EXECUTIVE COMMITTEE
<br/>ST. LOUIS HERPETOLOGICAL SOCIETY</span></p>
<div class="verse">
<p class="t0">Tom R. Johnson, President</p>
<p class="t0">2820 Oakland Ave.</p>
<p class="t0">St. Louis, Mo. 63143</p>
</div>
<div class="verse">
<p class="t0">Craig Petefish, Vice-President</p>
<p class="t0">11220 Hi-Tower</p>
<p class="t0">St. Ann, Mo. 63074</p>
</div>
<div class="verse">
<p class="t0">Diane M. Johnson, Sec.-Treas.</p>
<p class="t0">2820 Oakland Ave.</p>
<p class="t0">St. Louis, Mo. 63143</p>
</div>
<div class="verse">
<p class="t0">Donald J. Coxwell, Editor</p>
<p class="t0">11908 San Remo</p>
<p class="t0">St. Louis, Mo. 63138</p>
</div>
<div class="fig"> id="fig1"> <p class="pcap"><SPAN href="#cover">Cover</SPAN>: Cuban treefrog, <i>Hyla septentrionalis</i>, and boa constrictor, <i>Boa c. constrictor</i></p> </div>
<div class="pb" id="Page_ii">ii</div>
<h2 class="center"><span class="small">CONTENTS</span></h2>
<br/><SPAN href="#c1">Introduction</SPAN> iii
<br/><SPAN href="#c2">Salamanders</SPAN> 1
<br/><SPAN href="#c3">Toads and Frogs</SPAN> 6
<br/><SPAN href="#c4">Turtles and Tortoises</SPAN> 13
<br/><SPAN href="#c5">Lizards</SPAN> 20
<br/><SPAN href="#c6">Snakes</SPAN> 25
<br/><SPAN href="#c7">Bibliography</SPAN> 35
<div class="fig">> <ANTIMG src="images/p00.jpg" alt="Author autograph" width-obs="400" height-obs="211" /></div>
<div class="pb" id="Page_iii">iii</div>
<h2 id="c1"><span class="small">INTRODUCTION</span></h2>
<p>In recent years the number of people
interested in keeping amphibians and reptiles
in captivity has grown rapidly. All too often,
these same people have little knowledge of the
proper care needed for their captives, nor do
they know where to turn in order to learn the
needs of their animals.</p>
<p>Pet stores generally do not have the expertise
to give out proper information on the
identification and care of amphibians or
reptiles. The booklets they sell on the subject
are too general and too vague.</p>
<p>It is the intent of the authors of this
special issue to offer the proper information
needed to successfully keep amphibians and
reptiles in captivity. We are by no means
THE experts on the subject, nor do we claim
to cover all the facts. However, we do hope
that enough information is furnished to answer
most of the common questions asked by
people.</p>
<p>The bibliography has a list of books
which go into more detail on amphibians and
reptiles: their identification, and natural
history, range, and care in captivity. Room
did not permit the inclusion of amphibian
diseases—thus, the bibliography will be
of help there.</p>
<p>Due to the decline in the majority of
crocodilians in the world, the authors do
not condone their being kept in captivity
by amateur herpetologists. We also contend
that venomous reptiles, as well, do
not belong in a private collection.</p>
<h3>Acknowledgments.</h3>
<p>A note of thanks goes
to the authors listed in the bibliography;
for, without their works, this special issue
would have been extremely difficult.</p>
<div class="verse">
<p class="t0">Tom R. Johnson</p>
<p class="t0">Robert N. Bader</p>
<p class="t0">Donald J. Coxwell</p>
</div>
<div class="pb" id="Page_1">1</div>
<h2 id="c2"><span class="small">SALAMANDERS</span> <br/>(Order Caudata)</h2>
<h3>Background.</h3>
<p>Salamanders have been on earth
a very long time; as a matter of fact, the
first land vertebrate animal was a type of
salamander that evolved from air-breathing fresh
water fish—around 300 million years ago (late
Devonian period). Today, they range in size
from a few inches to over five feet long (the
giant salamander of China and Japan reach nearly
5 feet in length).</p>
<p>Salamanders require a moist environment of
various degrees—from slightly moist (as with
a newt eft stage), to a completely aquatic
existence (as with the mudpuppy, hellbender, or
adult newt). Nearly all salamanders require
water for breeding and egg laying, but there are
some varieties which lay their eggs on land,
under logs or in leaf litter.</p>
<p>There are approximately 280 species of
salamanders in the world—North America, Europe,
and Asia sharing the majority of species.
Missouri is the home of some two dozen species
and subspecies.</p>
<h3>Selection of Species to be Kept.</h3>
<p>It would be erroneous to say that <span class="u">all</span> species of salamanders
can be successfully kept in captivity,
because, as with other groups of animals, there
are types which are hardy in captivity, and
there are types which are extremely delicate.
It is recommended that only the more hardy
species be considered for keeping in the home.</p>
<p>As far as local species are concerned, the
various mole salamanders (genus <i>Ambystoma</i>: the
tiger, spotted, and small-mouthed salamanders)
seem to do well in captivity. They may live a
long time (up to 10 or 12 years for some). They
are large (hence, will eat food that is more
available), and they do not require a special
temperature range.</p>
<p>The central newt, <i>Notophthalmus v. louisianensis</i>,
which is locally common, or the
red-spotted newt, <i>N. v. viridescens</i>, which is
<span class="pb" id="Page_2">2</span>
sold in pet stores, are rather hardy, if
kept properly. The mudpuppy and hellbender
may do well, but they require considerably
more space, and should be
given a few flat rocks to hide under.</p>
<div class="fig"> id="fig2"> <ANTIMG src="images/p00a.jpg" alt="" width-obs="800" height-obs="433" /> <p class="pcap">Eastern Tiger Salamander <br/><i>Ambystoma t. tigrinum</i></p> </div>
<p>The smaller salamanders of Missouri are
on the whole delicate and require cool temperatures.
The best one to try to keep for a
while in captivity is the slimy salamander,
<i>Plethodon g. glutinosus</i>. The rest of the
smaller salamanders (genus <i>Plethodon</i> and
<i>Eurycea</i>) are usually difficult to maintain.
If you do secure some of these, it
is recommended that they be kept a short
time for observation, and then released
in the same area where they were taken.</p>
<p>Remember: several species of Missouri
salamanders are protected by the Missouri
Conservation Department. If you plan to
collect your own specimens, be sure to follow
all laws of the Conservation Dept.
No animal can be collected in a state or
national park, or taken from any cave.</p>
<h3>Housing Your Captive Salamanders.</h3>
<p>1. Terrestrial (land) species. The
first consideration for keeping terrestrial
<span class="pb" id="Page_3">3</span>
forms is proper moisture. The home terrarium
with deep soil and rooted plants is
very good for many salamanders, but it affords
<span class="u">too</span> many hiding places, and you may never see
your specimens.</p>
<p>A 1 to 2 inch layer of soil (⅓ black
dirt, ⅓ peat moss, ⅓ fine sand) works very
well for most land salamanders (mole salamanders,
slimy salamanders, and the California newt).
A few flat rocks or slabs of bark, or some dead
leaves will furnish hiding places, and a small,
shallow water dish should be provided. A 5-
or 10-gallon aquarium would be about the right
size for keeping several salamanders. Painting
the sides and back with black or dark brown
paint will furnish them with added security.
Never crowd too many salamanders into a small
aquarium. In the wild you seldom see more than
one or two individuals in any one hiding place.</p>
<p>The soil mixture should be changed every 2
to 3 weeks, because it will tend to sour from
your captive’s excrement.</p>
<p>As far as lighting your vivarium, it is not
necessary for the salamanders. They are all
nocturnal, and shy away from any direct light.
Thus, too much light can be harmful, and can
also cause the vivarium to heat up. The proper
temperature for most land living salamanders is
from 65 to 72°F.</p>
<p>Whatever size aquarium you intend to use
to house your salamander, be very sure it has
a tight screen lid. An all glass lid should not
be used because it prevents circulation of air,
and allows the humidity to build up to nearly
100%. The soil mixture on the bottom of the
vivarium should be slightly damp, not wet or
soggy. For best results—a gradient of
moisture from nearly dry to damp will furnish
your salamanders with an environment in which
they can choose their own “dampness”.</p>
<p class="tb">2. Aquatic Species. Aquatic salamanders
do well in an aquarium with a thin layer of
<span class="pb" id="Page_4">4</span>
gravel on the bottom, a few rocks, and a few
plants. Once again, a 5- or 10-gallon aquarium
would be the right size—but be sure
that the top is tight—aquatic salamanders
can also climb out. The water should be
changed as often as necessary to keep it
clear and odor free. Use spring water or
aged tap water to insure that they are not
exposed to any chlorine. The use of an
aquarium filter will help keep the salamanders
clean.</p>
<p>The water temperature should be kept at
between 65 to 72°F. If you wish to illuminate
the aquarium, use a fluorescent lamp,
not an incandescent lamp. Never expose
your salamanders to long periods of light,
or very harsh light.</p>
<h3>Food and Feeding.</h3>
<p>The universal food item
that can be fed to most of the salamanders
discussed above is the earthworm. Worms
are the natural food for many of them, they
can be stored alive, they can be collected
easily, or purchased at a bait shop. They
supply most of the nutritional needs for
salamanders, and they come in various sizes.
For large salamanders the worms can be fed to
them whole. Or for smaller species the
worms can be chopped into small pieces and
offered to the salamander on the end of a
thin wire. Of course, insects of all sorts
can be offered to salamanders. You can
collect them yourself or purchase crickets
or meal worms at a bait shop or pet shop.
You may even try feeding small pieces of
liver, beef, or even canned dog food, as
well as small strips of raw fish. Salamanders,
like other amphibians, will do
well if fed three times per week. Dusting
the food with calcium/phosphorus
powder will help to keep your specimens
healthy. Salamanders feed on live, moving
animals, thus they usually eat best
<span class="pb" id="Page_5">5</span>
if stimulated by movement. The food can be
held with long forceps or on a thin wire,
and waved in front of the salamander. Food not
eaten should be removed at once.</p>
<p class="tb">Salamanders are rather delicate animals,
and they do best if they are handled as little
as possible. With proper care and attention,
salamanders can be very interesting and attractive
animals in captivity.</p>
<p><span class="lr">T.R.J.</span></p>
<div class="fig">> <ANTIMG src="images/p01.jpg" alt="Salamander" width-obs="800" height-obs="521" /></div>
<div class="pb" id="Page_6">6</div>
<h2 id="c3"><span class="small">TOADS AND FROGS</span> <br/>(order Anura)</h2>
<h3>Background.</h3>
<p>The toads and frogs evolved from
salamanders some 180 million years ago (Triassic
period). They have changed little since
they developed the large, jumping-type legs,
and have become very successful. Today there
are over 2,600 species of toads and frogs, and
they live in a variety of environments.</p>
<p>With proper care, most toads and frogs do
quite well in captivity. Knowing their natural
history can help to furnish the keeper with the
information necessary to keep these amphibians
in good health.</p>
<h3>Selection of Species to be Kept.</h3>
<p>The selection
of the proper anuran (toads and frogs) for you
to keep depends partially on where your interests
lie. If you are interested in toads, then
the common species in your area may be selected
(Missouri common toads include the American and
the Fowler’s toad). The very large Marine toad,
<i>Bufo marinus</i>, is a species that is quite hardy
in captivity, and are not expensive to purchase.</p>
<p>Spadefoot toads (genus <i>Scaphiopus</i>) are
rather difficult to collect, except during their
breeding season, and they are extremely shy and
rather difficult to keep. They do not make a
very good study animal because they tend to
spend a great deal of time buried at the bottom
of their vivarium.</p>
<p>The treefrogs generally do well in captivity,
but only the larger species should be
considered. The very small varieties should be
delicate, and require very small insects to
feed on. The gray treefrog (<i>Hyla versicolor</i>)
and green treefrog (<i>Hyla cinerea</i>), both are
found in Missouri, as well as the barking treefrog
and Cuban treefrog (Florida species), are
easily kept, provided they are given a variety
of live insects to eat.</p>
<p>The majority of true frogs (genus <i>Rana</i>) can
be kept with little trouble, but—as with all
<span class="pb" id="Page_7">7</span>
animals—they should be kept as clean as
possible. The leopard frog (<i>Rana pipiens</i>,
<i>blaira</i>, and <i>utricularia</i>) will do well, so also
will the green and bull frog (<i>Rana clamitans</i>
and <i>R. catesbeiana</i>).</p>
<p>Because they are bred in captivity, the
clawed frog, <i>Xenopus</i>, of Africa is available
in many pet stores at reasonable prices. These
completely aquatic frogs can do quite well in
captivity. Another tropical frog species that
is often sold in pet stores is the South American
horned frog, <i>Ceratophrys</i>, which will
eat both crickets and baby mice.</p>
<p>Choosing other species not listed in this
section will have to be done at the discretion
of the person keeping them. You may choose a
species that is either too fragile (as with
very small toads or treefrogs), or, if exotic
species are what you are interested in, their
price may be the deciding factor (some Central
American frogs can be expensive).</p>
<p>No matter what type of toad or frog you
intend to keep, remember that they require live
food, and should never be kept in crowded
conditions. Thus, keep in mind that insects
are difficult to secure in the winter, and,
the more specimens you have, the greater the
problem will be to feed them. It is recommended
that only one or two toads or frogs be
kept at one time—get to know the animals,
learn from them, and then move on to other
species. Release native species in a suitable
area—but never release non-native species
into a new area ... give them to a zoo or biology
teacher.</p>
<p>One last reminder: always wash your hands
after having handled your captives. The skin
secretions can be very irritating to the eyes.</p>
<h3>Housing Your Captive Toad or Frog.</h3>
<p>As with
salamanders, the toads and frogs can be put
into two categories: 1. Aquatic, and 2. Terrestrial
(living on land). Both types of
<span class="pb" id="Page_8">8</span>
amphibians can be successfully kept in aquaria.</p>
<div class="fig"> id="fig3"> <ANTIMG src="images/p02.jpg" alt="" width-obs="800" height-obs="526" /> <p class="pcap">American Toad <br/><i>Bufo a. americanus.</i></p> </div>
<p>1. Aquatic and semi-aquatic toads and frogs.
The truly aquatic toads and frogs that are
often kept in captivity by amateur herpetologists
are the South American Surinam
toad, <i>Pipa pipa</i>, and the African clawed
frog, <i>Xenopus laevis</i>. Both forms can be kept
in a 10-gallon aquarium with gravel on the
bottom, a few rocks, and some aquatic plants.
A secure top should always cover the top of the
aquarium. The water should be filtered, and
a temperature of 70 to 78°F will do nicely for
these species. The water level of the aquarium
can be from 6 to 10 inches.</p>
<p>Many of the true frogs (genus <i>Rana</i>) can
be kept in a semi-aquatic condition. That is,
a few inches of water on one end of the aquarium,
and some type of land area on the other end.
In this way, the frog can either be in the water
or out—whatever it wishes. One way to set
up this situation would be to use a 10-gallon
aquarium with a little gravel on the bottom,
and a few large, flat rocks for the frogs to
climb onto can be put in. A screen top must
be put on the top to keep the frogs inside.
If bullfrogs (<i>Rana catesbeiana</i>) are to be kept,
<span class="pb" id="Page_9">9</span>
a 15 or 20-gallon aquarium would be needed.
With this set-up, the water should be changed
at least twice per week. To give the amphibians
a sense of security, the back and sides of
the aquarium should be painted a dark brown or
black (paint the outside glass). Try to avoid
any bright lights over your toads’ or frogs’
aquarium.</p>
<p class="tb">2. Terrestrial and Arboreal Species. All of
our native toads are adapted to life on land.
In captivity they will do well if given a few
inches of soil (⅓ black dirt, ⅓ peat moss,
and ⅓ fine sand), a few pieces of bark to hide
under, and a small, shallow water dish. A 5 or
10-gallon aquarium will do. The sides and back
should be painted a dark brown or black, and a
screen top will be needed to keep them inside.
The soil mixture should be replaced every few
weeks for proper sanitation. If the soil mixture
becomes too wet, it should be replaced.</p>
<p>Besides most toads, the South American
horned frog, <i>Ceratophrys</i>, the African burrowing
frog, <i>Pyxicephalus</i>, and the spadefoot toads,
<i>Scaphippus</i>, can be kept in this type vivarium.
However, if you notice that the bottom of the
toads’ or frogs’ hind feet are becoming raw from
too much digging, it may be best to keep them
on wet paper towels rather than on any soil.</p>
<h3><i>Treefrogs.</i></h3>
<p>A typical terrarium set-up
will work very well for most treefrogs. But,
even though you may have the most beautiful
terrarium plants—the treefrogs will spend
most of their time sticking to the upper corners
of the aquarium. Besides plants, a few small
branches and a shallow water dish are also required.
Spraying the terrarium once-a-day will
do the treefrogs and the plants some good.</p>
<p>The temperature for most treefrogs or
terrestrial toads and frogs can range from 68
to 75°F. However, tropical species should not
fall below 70°F.</p>
<div class="pb" id="Page_10">10</div>
<div class="fig"> id="fig4"> <ANTIMG src="images/p03.jpg" alt="" width-obs="800" height-obs="525" /> <p class="pcap">Green Frog <br/><i>Rana clamitans</i></p> </div>
<h3>Food and Feeding.</h3>
<p>Becoming familiar with the
natural history of your captive amphibian
will help you determine what they can be fed.
Giving your toad or frog a variety of live
insects is a good practice. For the totally
aquatic species; earthworms, minnows, goldfish,
shrimp, and even small tadpoles, are
all eaten by them. If these are not available,
try small pieces of raw fish, liver, or
beef. Toads and large frogs will eat mice—the
size depending on the size of the toad or
frog.</p>
<p>Feeding your animals by just dumping in
a number of crickets, worms, or flies is a
very poor management practice. For one thing,
if you have several toads or frogs in one
aquarium, the stronger, more alert animal will
probably eat more than the others, and one or
two will be under fed. Also, if you add live
crickets to a well planted terrarium, many
of the plants will be eaten by the crickets
before they are eaten up themselves. It is
thus strongly recommended that all your toads
and frogs be fed by hand, using a thin wire or
long pair of forceps. Place the cricket or
worm on the end of the wire and move it in
front of the amphibian. In this way you can
<span class="pb" id="Page_11">11</span>
be sure all are getting the proper amount of
food, and this is also a good way to feed such
things as liver or pieces of raw beef.</p>
<p>As a general rule, all your toads and frogs
will do well if fed on a regular basis of 2 to
3 times per week. It is good practice to dust
the worms or insects once a week with a
calcium/phosphorus powder. This will supply
your specimens with the much needed minerals.</p>
<h3>Tadpoles.</h3>
<p>It happens so often that people have
seen tadpoles (Toad and frog larvae) in ponds
or puddles while out in the country, and have
taken them home—only to find out they have
no idea how to care for them. The development
of these amphibians can be a real learning experience
for children, and with proper care,
your tadpoles can mature to small toads or frogs.</p>
<p>Overcrowding and lack of proper food are
two mistakes made most often by people who try
to keep tadpoles. One half to one dozen is
more than enough to try to keep. Put them in a
shallow pan, with 1 to 3 inches of water in it.
The larger the tadpoles, the deeper the water
should be. Insert an air stone to keep the
water in motion. No rocks or gravel are needed,
but some live aquatic plants can be put in with
them. <span class="u">KEEP THEM CLEAN.</span> Never allow the water to
stand dirty for more than a few hours. Be sure
that the clean water is free from chlorine.</p>
<p>To feed your tadpoles, it is essential to
give them a variety, and to furnish them with
both plant and animal foods. Their staple diet
could be boiled lettuce, rabbit chow, and cooked
liver. Give them small amounts of food at one
time. You can feed them 3 or 4 times a day.
When you see the water is becoming dirty—change
it. You may want to try and feed them a
tropical fish food called “molly flake food”;
or you might try some hard boiled egg. Keep the
water temperature at 70 to 72°F.</p>
<p>Once the tadpoles begin to lose their
<span class="pb" id="Page_12">12</span>
tails, grow front legs, and take in air at the
surface, they are beginning to turn into a toad
or frog. At this stage, they should not be disturbed.
When they no longer have any tail, and
stay out of the water, they can be fed a variety
of small insects, or small pieces of earthworms.</p>
<p><span class="lr">T.R.J.</span></p>
<div class="fig">> <ANTIMG src="images/p04.jpg" alt="Tadpole" width-obs="800" height-obs="248" /></div>
<div class="pb" id="Page_13">13</div>
<h2 id="c4"><span class="small">TURTLES AND TORTOISES</span> <br/>(order Chelonia)</h2>
<h3>Overview:</h3>
<p>Large numbers of hatchling and adult
turtles are sold or traded each year in
the United States. Unfortunately, from the point
of view of the turtles themselves, the majority
of them are condemned to death by unintentional
maltreatment and few manage to survive a
year. The species most often abused is the
red-eared slider, <i>Chrysemys scripta elegans</i>.
Next most common are the map turtles, <i>Graptemy</i>,
and third in abundance are the painted
turtles, <i>Chrysemys picta</i>. All are water turtles
and require much the same care in captivity.
Since the red-eared slider is the most common
of all, the general account that follows is based
upon the slider group of turtles. This is
the largest group of native turtles, including
some 16 different kinds. All live in ponds and
lakes, and may be given about the same care in
captivity. Comparisons with other groups follow
the general account, save the tortoises, or dry
land turtles, which will be discussed in more
detail after the aquatic turtle account.</p>
<h3>Aquatic Species:</h3>
<p>Description and diet: Water
turtles, such as the red-eared slider, vary in
color and usually have webbed feet for swimming.
These turtles are generally carnivorous
(meat eaters), and their primary diet consists
of chopped raw beef, horsemeat, fish, worms,
and also aquatic greens. Some water turtles
will eat bits of green leafy vegetables, such
as fresh greens, lettuce, endive, and spinach.
All turtles are different, however, and a variety
of foods should be offered to determine
their likes and dislikes. Food supplements
should also be used. Some of these are: cod
liver oil, liquid multiple vitamins, and
powdered calcium or bone meal. These may be
added directly to their food.</p>
<p>Box, wood, and Muhlenberg’s turtles or
other semi-aquatic species do well in captivity
<span class="pb" id="Page_14">14</span>
when a basin of shallow water is provided for
soaking. Diamondbacks need brackish or slightly
salty water. These also generally eat vegetable
matter as well as meat.</p>
<div class="fig"> id="fig5"> <ANTIMG src="images/p05.jpg" alt="" width-obs="800" height-obs="460" /> <p class="pcap">Red-Eared Slider <br/><i>Pseudemys scripta elegans</i></p> </div>
<p>All weather care: As these turtles are
generally kept indoors, an aquarium is the
best means of maintaining them. Temperatures
may be controlled by the use of a heater, thermostat,
and thermometer. The best temperature
will range between 72 to 85° F. A filter
and pump may be used to keep the water clean.
It is advisable to feed the turtles in a separate
container, as foods foul the water
quickly.</p>
<p>The aquarium and accessories should be
kept clean and scrubbed periodically. Water
turtles may be kept out of water for some
time, if necessary, with no ill effects. However,
they cannot eat out of the water. These
turtles must also have sunlight in order to
grow and maintain a hard shell and sound
bones. They should be allowed to sun at least
twice a week ... always with a shade of some
type over a portion of the container, so they
will not become over-heated.</p>
<p>The aquarium itself should be arranged so
that the turtles can leave the water at will
<span class="pb" id="Page_15">15</span>
and dry themselves periodically. A cluster
of smooth, flat rocks in the middle, or at one
end of the aquarium will permit them to do so.</p>
<h3>Dry Land Species:</h3>
<p>Description and diet:
Tortoise is the term generally used in referring
to dry land turtles. They seldom swim
or enter the water. Carapace and plastron
(upper and lower shell) range from light tan to
dark brown in color; The skin is rough appearing
and the legs are scaled and elephant-like, with
no webbing of the feet. Food consists of vegetables,
fruits, grass cuttings, dandelions,
petals from various garden flowers, bits of
raw meat that is finely chopped, and canned dog
food. Foods such as carrots, string beans, and
corn are valuable in the diet, and should be
ground or scraped. Many of the tortoises are
fond of earthworms, so these should also be
offered. Food supplements, such as cod liver
oil, liquid multiple vitamins, powdered calcium,
and bone meal, should also be added to
foods periodically. Box, wood, and Muhlenberg’s
turtles (as well as other semi-aquatic
species) will do well in captivity if a shallow
water dish is provided. These species will
generally eat meat as well as vegetable matter.</p>
<p>Cold weather care: In the fall, around
late October or early November, your tortoise
will want to hibernate. It will probably dig
its own burrow out of doors, given it is in the
correct environment. If the conditions outside
are not proper for your tortoise to burrow,
he may be placed in a box in a cool, dry
area where a constant temperature can be maintained,
such as a garage. Cover him with a
layer or two of old, shredded newspapers. He
is now ready to be “stored” for the winter.
If your tortoise is to spend the winter in the
house, be sure to keep food and water available.
House temperatures do not permit a tortoise to
hibernate properly, and starvation is possible
if he is not allowed to eat when he stirs about
during the winter.</p>
<div class="pb" id="Page_16">16</div>
<p>Hot weather care: Hibernation ends
some time in spring, usually in March. The
tortoise may be a little sluggish at first,
but as the weather becomes warmer, interest
and appetite improve. Water, food, and
shelter from the sun must always be available,
and a night shelter is advised.</p>
<p>Illness and treatments: Most turtle
owners are familiar with the basic care requirements
of their pets; however, there are
a few common ailments that may require prompt
treatment. The simple remedies here have
been found to be successful in many cases.</p>
<p>Respiratory ailments: Turtles and tortoises
are usually susceptible to colds and
pneumonia. Bubbling of the nose and mouth
and “gasping” are symptoms of this. Isolation
from the other turtles in a heated box or
aquarium is mandatory. A heat lamp may be
used several times a day—but always with
a shaded corner into which the turtle can
crawl when he gets too hot. Cold-remedy
salves can also be rubbed on the turtle’s
nose to help relieve congestion. The turtle
should be kept warm and isolated until all
traces of his cold have disappeared. (Injection
of an anti-biotic serum into the leg
or forelimb, once a day, is sometimes successful,
as well as anti-biotic pills given
orally; but consult a veterinarian or
Society member before attempting this as
some drugs are dangerous for turtles.) If
caught in its early stages pneumonia can be
overcome. The turtle in question should be
isolated and kept warm, and the following
medicine should be administered with an eye
dropper: Dissolve together</p>
<div class="verse">
<p class="t0">½ ounce of water</p>
<p class="t0">1 tablet Chlortetracycline</p>
<p class="t0">4-5 drops liquid vitamins</p>
</div>
<p>Administer daily for two days and then skip
a day. Repeat. This formula has proven itself
quite effective after 5 or 6 days.</p>
<div class="pb" id="Page_17">17</div>
<p>Cracked shell: Immediately place injured
turtle in a clean, paper towel-lined box, and
bring indoors so that ants and flies will not
torment him. If shell is bleeding, gently wash
it with a mild solution of boric acid and pat
dry. This may have to be done several times
before bleeding stops. Put his box in a warm,
quiet spot in the house, and leave him completely
alone except for offering a shallow bowl
of drinking water from time to time. If he survives
the first 24 hours, he will probably pull
through. (The lungs are under the carapace, and
if the broken shell has penetrated the lung
area, there is practically nothing that can be
done for the turtle.) If the wound is bad or
jagged, it may be filled with Canadian Balsam—after
bleeding has stopped and then securely
tape with electrician’s tape. The tape may be
left on for several months if necessary, but
it should be checked every six weeks or so, to
make sure infection has not set in. Once the
turtle has started eating and resumed his normal
routine, he is probably well on the road
to recovery.</p>
<p>Soft shell, and swollen eyes: This is
almost always due to an improper diet and lack
of direct sunlight. Add vitamins and ground
bone meal to the food; offer raw, lean chopped
meat; and see that the turtle is placed in
direct sunlight for several hours each day.
(When turtles are placed in direct sun, they
must have a shaded area into which they can
retreat when the temperature goes too high.)
Swollen eyes may also be bathed in a dilute
solution of boric acid to alleviate swelling
and puffiness.</p>
<p>Fungus: This appears as white spots,
lumps, or flakes on the skin or shell. Addition
of plain table salt to the aquarium water
will often cure the condition. Fungus on the
shell may be helped by painting the area with
5% iodine or 2% gentian violet solution. Always
keep the turtle out of the water for a
period of 2 to 4 hours after applying either
<span class="pb" id="Page_18">18</span>
iodine or gentian violet, so as not to wash
the medication from the shell or skin.
If the fungus continues after several treatments,
allow a week or so before experimenting
with another medication, as many
times the combination of medications can be
detrimental to the turtle.</p>
<div class="fig"> id="fig6"> <ANTIMG src="images/p06.jpg" alt="" width-obs="800" height-obs="542" /> <p class="pcap">Ornate Box turtle <br/><i>Terrapene o. ornata</i></p> </div>
<p>Parasites: Parasites may be suspected
if the turtle suffers a great loss of weight
or a loss of appetite without apparent cause,
or if he has a ravenous appetite. Parasites
may be evident in the stools, but are not
always readily seen. If suspected, have a
veterinarian diagnose and treat this condition.
In addition, shots of vitamins can
be administered periodically for maintaining
good health. If, however, the turtle is
on the proper diet, shots such as these may
not be needed.</p>
<h3>Conclusion:</h3>
<p>Many different kinds of turtles
make satisfactory additions for your collection.
Actually, every one of our native
turtles, at least when small in size, can
be acceptable. Larger examples of some species,
<span class="pb" id="Page_19">19</span>
however, are sometimes unpleasant and even
positively dangerous as members of your collection.
Below is a list of those turtles that
should be avoided by the amateur herpetologist:</p>
<div class="verse">
<p class="t0">Adults:</p>
<p class="t2">Common Snapping Turtles</p>
<p class="t2">Alligator Snapping Turtle<SPAN class="fn" id="fr_1" href="#fn_1">[1]</SPAN></p>
<p class="t2">Soft-shelled Turtles</p>
<p class="t2">Very Large Sliders</p>
<p class="t2">Musk Turtles</p>
<p class="t2">Mud Turtles</p>
</div>
<p>The larger species, or large adults of
some species, tend to become aggressive and
dangerous as they grow older, and many times
a finger is mistaken for a morsel of food.
Avoid the aforementioned turtles if your interest
in these hard-shelled friends is new.</p>
<p>These are some turtles, of course, that
can be handled without fear of biting or scratching.
Any of the smaller species of sliders
can make acceptable additions to your collection.
Below is a list of those turtles that are, and
may be handled and studied by the amateur:</p>
<div class="verse">
<p class="t0">Young:</p>
<p class="t2">Common Snapping Turtle</p>
<p class="t2">Soft-shelled Turtles</p>
<p class="t2">Sliders</p>
<p class="t2">Musk Turtles</p>
<p class="t2">Mud Turtles</p>
<p class="t2">Diamond Back Terrapin</p>
</div>
<p>Although young turtles make safe additions
to your collection, land turtles of all kinds
are best, seldom if ever bite, feed readily, and
survive a long time in captivity. They include:
Eastern, Florida, Three-toed, and Ornate Box
Turtles, and the Red-Foot Tortoise.
None of these are commonly available from
commercial dealers, however.</p>
<p><span class="lr">D.J.C.</span></p>
<div class="pb" id="Page_20">20</div>
<h2 id="c5"><span class="small">LIZARDS</span> <br/>(order Squamata) (suborder Lacertilia)</h2>
<p>Keeping lizards as “pets” can be a very
challenging task, because, it has been found
that many species will not thrive in captivity.</p>
<p>When looking for a lizard to buy or catch,
keep in mind some of the basic requirements
the animal should have while you are choosing
a lizard. The lizard should be alert and
active. Check its mouth for signs of sores,
bad teeth or gums, or other indications of
mouth rot. Check the eyes for discharges,
make sure the eyes are not sunken into the
head. Observe it walking to insure that there
is no damage to the limbs. Do not accept a
lizard that has a discharge from the nose,
this could be a symptom of a respiratory infection.</p>
<p>Lizards vary a great deal in their dietary
requirements, therefore, it is very important
that you are very sure of the animal’s identification
before you purchase or collect it. You
cannot always rely on the pet store dealer for
an accurate identification. If the lizard is
one that you have caught, then you can refer
to a field guide for a positive identification.</p>
<p>Some lizards are strictly insect eaters,
others eat only fruits and vegetables, some
will only eat meat, a few lizards will only
eat eggs, and then there are some that will
eat nearly anything. Most insectivores will
only eat live insects. If it is hard to get
live insects, you may be able to get the lizard
to accept dead food by offering it on the
end of a thin wire. By moving the insect, the
lizard will think it is alive, and often will
grasp the food. Insectivores require a large
amount of food, and the food should be varied:
don’t feed all meal worms, or all crickets, but
try to offer a variety of insects.</p>
<div class="pb" id="Page_21">21</div>
<p>The vegetarians or herbivores need to be
fed a mixed variety of fruits and vegetables.
Often, color will induce a lizard to eat, so
always include some apple or tomato to the
diet if the lizard doesn’t seem interested in
food. The meat eaters are often the easiest
to induce to eat. Canned dog food is usually
used as a basic, but whole mice are much more
of a balanced diet. Sometimes it is necessary
to skin the mouse in order to get the lizard to
eat it. Whatever dietary requirements your
lizards have, their food should be supplemented
with a vitamin and mineral powder. Steamed
bone meal is often used. Just sprinkle a small
amount on the food, and then mix it in so the
lizards will take it in with their food.</p>
<p>Although the size of the cage is usually
not critical for lizards, cage props may be
essential in order to insure that the animal
thrives. If the lizard is a burrower in the
wild then it is often necessary that it be
able to burrow in captivity. If the animal is
normally arboreal, Then you must have a branch
for it to climb on. Because of this, it is
most important that you know what species of
lizard you have; then learn as much as possible
about its habits and habitat.</p>
<p>Besides cage decorations, always have
clean drinking water in the cage. Many species
of lizards do not drink from a water dish.
They obtain their water from dew drops or rain
drops that they lap with their tongues.
<span class="pb" id="Page_22">22</span>
It is advisable to spray the lizards’ cage daily
with a fine mist of warm water.</p>
<div class="fig"> id="fig7"> <ANTIMG src="images/p07.jpg" alt="" width-obs="800" height-obs="502" /> <p class="pcap">Common Iguana <br/><i>Iguana iguana</i></p> </div>
<p>An important requirement for lizards is
sunlight. Often, a lizard seems to be eating
and doing well in captivity, but suddenly dies.
This may be due to a lack of sunlight. In many
instances the animal may not eat at all.
If direct sunlight is not available, it can
be substituted by the use of a vita-lite bulb.
This bulb, which looks like a fluorescent
bulb, can often be purchased from a large
plant store or directly from the manufacturer.</p>
<p>Lizards often have a more precise temperature
requirement than other reptiles. A daytime
temperature range of 85 to 90°F, and dropping
to 80°F at night is usually best for the
tropical species. Many of the North American
desert species also require a high daytime
temperature. Adult tegus and monitors can be
kept at slightly lower temperatures, usually
from 72 to 76°F. As with snakes, the temperature
in the lizard cage can be controlled
with a light bulb. The size of the cage will
determine the size of the bulb needed. As
previously stated, temperature can be critical,
and many lizards will die if not kept
<span class="pb" id="Page_23">23</span>
warm enough. Never guess at the cage temperature—always
have a small thermometer in the
cage, and check it often.</p>
<p>Keeping lizards healthy can be a challenging
but also frustrating experience. There
is very little information available on lizard
diseases. These reptiles are susceptible to
many of the diseases that snakes get, and often
the symptoms are the same. Lizards can get
mouth rot, respiratory infections, parasites
(both internal and external), eye infections,
and other common reptile diseases. One disease
that is common in lizards is impaction of the
intestines. This is common in insect eaters that
are being fed only meal worms. Often, the impaction
is not noticed until after the animal
dies. If the lizard is alone, keep track of its
food intake and fecal output. If an extended
period goes by and the lizard is not
making fecal matter, then there could be a physical
blockage in the intestine. Put a little
mineral oil up the cloaca—this will help to
loosen the blockage. The best cure is preventive
procedures. Feed a variety of insects if possible,
but don’t feed all meal worms.</p>
<p>The other diseases that lizards are susceptible
to can be treated by using the same
medications used for snakes. Dosages, of course,
must be less, for we are usually dealing with a
much smaller animal.</p>
<p>Good husbandry along with preventive medicine
are the best ways to keep your lizard healthy.
Keep the cage clean, feed a proper diet, supply
sunlight or artificial light, and most important:
know the lizards’ requirements and natural history.</p>
<p>The following is a list of lizards that
usually can be kept successfully in captivity:</p>
<div class="pb" id="Page_24">24</div>
<table class="center" summary="">
<tr><td class="l">Green Iguana: </td><td class="l">A lizard from Central and South America, mostly herbivorous, is arboreal, and can grow to 6 feet.</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">Tegu: </td><td class="l">A large carnivore from South America, feeds on mice, not tame.</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">Monitors: </td><td class="l">Large carnivores from the Old World, most do well.</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">Glass Lizards: </td><td class="l">Insectivores from North America, will eat dog food, tail breaks off easily.</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">Tokay Gecko: </td><td class="l">Will eat any small animal or insect. Make good pets.</td></tr>
<tr><td class="l">Amevias: </td><td class="l">Same as tegu.</td></tr>
</table>
<div class="fig"> id="fig8"> <ANTIMG src="images/p08.jpg" alt="" width-obs="800" height-obs="435" /> <p class="pcap">Great Plains Skink <br/><i>Eumeces obsoletus</i></p> </div>
<p>Most lizards from Missouri should be kept
during the summer, then released in early fall
where they were collected. Lizards that do not
make good pets are: horned lizards, anoles,
collared lizards and fence lizards.</p>
<p>As with all animals, there are exceptions
to the rule; an iguana may refuse to eat, or
a collared lizard may do well for years. Each
reptile within a species may act differently
from how the whole species may act in captivity.
Knowing the lizards’ habitat and habits will
be the deciding factor in keeping the animal
alive and healthy in captivity.</p>
<p><span class="lr">R.N.B.</span></p>
<div class="pb" id="Page_25">25</div>
<h2 id="c6"><span class="small">SNAKES</span> <br/>(order Squamata) (suborder Serpentes)</h2>
<p>There are many species of snakes throughout
the world (over 2,700 species). Some of
these make very good “pets”, while others never
seem to thrive in captivity. Because of the
many varieties of snakes, the care of them can
vary quite a bit. There are a few basic needs
that all snakes, regardless of the species, require
in order to do well in captivity.</p>
<p>All snakes are carnivorous. They eat only
whole animals. This food may vary from termites
to rabbits—with all types of animals in
between. This sometimes includes other snakes.</p>
<p>Snakes require clean drinking water, a
clean cage to live in, and an all around healthy
environment.</p>
<p>The above requirements are easy to meet, but
they must not be treated lightly. After the
basics are met, there are other requirements
that individual species may need.</p>
<p>A common problem with keeping snakes is
they often will not eat. Sometimes the reason
is simply that they are not satisfied with their
environment. Snakes that are arboreal will need
a limb in their cage. If they don’t have something
to climb on they may refuse to eat. Tropical
snakes require a higher cage temperature
than what is normal room temperature. This can
be accomplished by putting a heat lamp above
the cage. Always monitor the temperature with
a thermometer and try to maintain it around 85°F.
Certain species of snakes spend a great deal of
time burrowing, and unless they can burrow in
their cage they may not eat. Many of the more
nervous species of snakes, like the racers, require
a hiding box so that they will feel secure.
The hiding box is often a good idea for any
snake that may refuse to eat if all other conditions
are favorable.</p>
<div class="pb" id="Page_26">26</div>
<div class="fig"> id="fig9"> <ANTIMG src="images/p09.jpg" alt="" width-obs="800" height-obs="528" /> <p class="pcap">Speckled King Snake <br/><i>Lampropeltis getulus holbrooki</i></p> </div>
<p>Food preference can be an important factor,
even with snakes of the same species.
Snakes from aquatic habitats generally eat only
fish and amphibians. Non-constricting snakes
(racers and coachwhip snakes) generally do not
eat large rodents or birds, but limit their
diet to amphibians, baby rodents, bird eggs,
lizards, and even small snakes. The constrictors
are usually entirely rodent and bird feeders.
There are of course, exceptions, and some
snakes, like the large (non-constricting)
eastern indigo, <i>Drymarchon corais couperi</i>,
which will eat nearly anything from toads and
frogs to adult rats. Just as species of snakes
vary in their diet, so do individuals within
a species. Fortunately this is not very common.
There are cases of a particular snake
eating only a specific food animal. If a rat
snake is not eating mice, it might be induced
to feed on a different type of rodent or a bird.
Many snakes in the wild are nocturnal, and
sometimes a particular snake will only eat if
fed at night, with all the lights out.</p>
<p>Always feed the rodent eaters dead food.
Often, this will cause a problem with newly
<span class="pb" id="Page_27">27</span>
collected animals, but with a little time,
your snake will usually learn to accept dead
food. The reason for feeding dead food animals
is to protect the snake from getting a serious
bite from a rat or mouse. If the snake is feeding
on insects, fish, or amphibians, the food
can simply be placed in the cage with the snake.
If there is more than one snake in the cage,
you should observe the feeding so as to insure
that one snake does not swallow the other snake
along with its meal. If one or both snakes
are nervous feeders, they should be separated
during the feeding procedure.</p>
<p>Occasionally, one will come across a snake
that will absolutely refuse to eat under any
type of condition. Even though snakes can go
for months without food, eventually a snake
will starve to death. If a snake doesn’t eat,
it is most advisable to try to release it in an
area where it is native to. Ideally, it should
be released where it was collected. If the
snake is not native to your area, you may have
to force feed the snake—as a last resort.
It is usually best to try to force a small food
animal into the snake. Always use a blunt, rounded
rod and be very careful not to injure the
gums or mouth of the snake. Snakes can be sustained
for long periods of time by force feeding,
but this procedure will only forestall
death for a short time in many cases.</p>
<p>Once your snake proves to be a “feeder”,
your next major concern is health. Snakes,
like other animals, are susceptible to many
types of diseases. Many of these diseases can
be prevented with good husbandry practices.</p>
<p>A common ailment is mouth rot or canker
mouth. This is a bacterial infection of the
mouth and gums that generally starts from an
injury to the snake’s mouth. The first symptoms
are sores in the mouth—especially
along the edges of the gums. As the disease
progresses a white cheesy-like substance is
formed in the mouth and under the lips. The
<span class="pb" id="Page_28">28</span>
more advanced the infection, the more substance
is formed. Although the actual mouth
rot might not kill the snake, the animal will
often refuse food, and is also very susceptible
to secondary infections, which could be
fatal.</p>
<p>Treatment in the early stages is very
simple, and can be very successful. Many
different drugs can be used, most of which
have a sulphur base. Sul-met is a common
medication that is often used. Treatment
is by making a solution according to directions,
and then irrigating the infected mouth
two or three times a day. Also, add some
medication to the drinking water. More advanced
cases would need to be treated with
anti-biotic injections. Dosage depends on the
size of the snake and the concentration of
the medication.</p>
<p>Respiratory infections are a major concern
to anyone keeping snakes. They generally
catch colds from being kept in drafts or at low
temperatures for an extended length of time.
The species of snake will determine its temperature
requirements. A native North American
snake will have a higher tolerance for cooler
temperatures than a snake from the tropics.</p>
<p>The first symptom of a respiratory infection
to look for would be bubbles in the
mouth. As the cold advances, bubbles will be
blown out the nose, and the mouth will become
full of mucus. Untreated, a cold can develop
into pneumonia and cause death. Treatment is
easy and effective if given soon enough.
First, keep the snake warm. A temperature between
80 to 88°F is recommended. The snake will
need injections of an antibiotic, such as
tetracycline or chlormyciten. The size of the
snake will determine the dosage. The injections
are usually given at daily intervals for several
days. If you are in an area where there is a
veterinarian that can treat exotic animals, he
should be consulted before any treatment is used.</p>
<div class="pb" id="Page_29">29</div>
<p>There are several other physiological
diseases that snakes are susceptible to, but
the above mentioned are the most common.</p>
<p>Knowing your snake and observing it daily
will be a good way to keep track of its health.
Any unusual activity could be an indication of
an illness. Refusing to eat; regurgitation
after eating; inactivity for long periods of
time; or even difficulty in shedding its skin,
are all signs that something may be wrong with
your reptile. Keeping good records on the snake
will be very beneficial in determining if the
snake is acting normal or not. Write down when
and what the snake eats, when it sheds (you may
want to measure the skin each shedding to see
if the snake has grown), when there is a stool,
and if the animal regurgitates. The above are
some of the basic routine procedures that should
be kept track of in order for you to
better determine the health of your snake.</p>
<p>The second major health problem you may
have to deal with is parasites: both internal
and external. There are many types of internal
parasites which snakes are susceptible to.
Only proper diagnosis of the type of parasite
will determine the right medication for treatment.
Determining the type of parasite involved
is done by fecal analysis. If a snake is eating
and losing weight, or if it regurgitates
a day or so after eating, then there is reason
to suspect worms. Worming of snakes is a simple
procedure, but it must not be done unless you
are using the proper medicine. Most worming
medications are in liquid form, and they can be
squirted down the snake’s throat, or injected
into a food animal. Any snake that is suspected
of having parasites, or any new snake in your
collection should have a fecal analysis done
by a veterinarian.</p>
<p>External parasites are of two types: mites
and ticks. Ticks are usually encountered on
newly purchased or captured specimens. Removal
is done by pulling them off with a pair of
<span class="pb" id="Page_30">30</span>
forceps. Try to get all of the tick out from
under the skin.</p>
<p>Mites can be a serious problem and once
they appear in a collection, they may show up
again and again, even after it was thought that
they had all been eradicated. Mites appear as
little tiny black specks which are most often
seen on the lower jaw and around the eyes.
They are often seen in the water dish even
before they are seen on the snake. Control is
very simple. The No-Pest strip is very effective
in controlling mites. It is generally recommended
to attach a <span class="u">piece</span> of the strip on the
inside top of the cage. Since the vapor fumes
are heavier than air, they will float to the
bottom of the cage. The water dish should thus
be taken out of the cage, but everything else,
including the snake, should be left in the cage.
Allow the strip to remain in the cage for two
days. Remove the strip, thoroughly disinfect
the cage and all decorations in it. The strip
will have killed all the adult mites, but not
the eggs. It is most important to replace the
strip in about two weeks, then repeat the cleaning
procedure. The No-Pest strip will also
help to control ticks and flies.</p>
<p>Housing requirements are not as critical
for snakes as they may be for other amphibians
and reptiles. Some collectors build their
own cages, others use store bought cages.
This author prefers glass aquarium-type cages,
with screen tops. The aquarium-type is easy to
clean. It is often recommended to darken
three sides of the aquarium, in order to give
the snake a sense of security. Cage bedding
is up to the keeper. Natural rock or sand
may look good, but are much harder to keep
clean. It is recommended that newspaper be
used on the bottom of your aquarium or wooden
snake cage.</p>
<p>The amount of space required by your snake
is rather small. Snakes spend so much time
coiled up in one corner, or on a tree branch,
<span class="pb" id="Page_31">31</span>
that the large snake cage is of little value.
A cage the size of a 10-gallon aquarium will
be large enough for all but the large pythons
or boas (over 5 feet). Remember to keep the
snake’s native habitat in mind if you are going
to decorate the cage. A snake cage should not
be kept wet or even damp. Even water snakes
need only a dish of water for drinking.</p>
<p>What snake makes the best pet is a hard
question to answer. The following list will
give you an idea of some of the species commonly
kept as “pets”:</p>
<p class="revint">Rat Snakes (genus <i>Elaphe</i>), rodent eaters from
eastern and southern U.S., average size up
to 4 feet. Are prone to bite when first
caught, but usually tame down. The red
rat snake (<i>Elaphe g. guttata</i>) is one of the
most beautiful of North American snakes.</p>
<p class="revint">King Snakes and Milk Snakes (genus <i>Lampropeltis</i>),
usually eat small rodents, lizards, and
small snakes. Disposition, same as rat
snakes.</p>
<p class="revint">Bull Snake (<i>Pituophis melanoleucus sayi</i>), a
large constrictor, and the largest snake
native to Missouri. Will eat adult rats,
mice, and baby chicks. Usually do well in
captivity.</p>
<p class="revint">Water Snakes (genus <i>Natrix</i>), will eat minnows,
frogs, tadpoles, and sometimes mice. They
will bite when captured, and will at times
continue to bite after being in captivity
for a long time.</p>
<p class="revint">Hognosed Snake (genus <i>Hetrodon</i>), a smaller variety,
averages 2 to 2½ feet. Feeds only on
toads, but nearly always eats in captivity.</p>
<p class="revint">Boa Constrictor (<i>Boa constrictor</i>), one of the
most commonly kept snakes. Being a tropical
snake—it must be kept warm (80 to
88°F). Will eat rodents and birds.</p>
<div class="pb" id="Page_32">32</div>
<p class="revint">Burmese python (<i>Python molurus bivittatus</i>), which
may reach 20 to 24 feet long, is often kept
as a pet by the amateur snake collector.
They require the same temperature and food
as the boa constrictor.</p>
<p class="revint">Reticulated Python (<i>Python reticulatus</i>), same
as the Burmese python, but will grow longer.
Large specimens will eat rabbits.</p>
<p class="revint">African Rock Python (<i>Python sebae</i>), same in
general needs as the Burmese Python. Will
grow slightly longer, and may not tame as
easily as some other species. Large specimens
will eat rabbits.</p>
<p class="revint">Ball Python (<i>Python regius</i>), another species
from Africa, but averages 3 to 4 feet in
length. Usually a good feeder on rodents,
but at times may only eat birds. Require
the same needs as other tropical
species.</p>
<div class="fig"> id="fig10"> <ANTIMG src="images/p10.jpg" alt="" width-obs="800" height-obs="467" /> <p class="pcap">Black Rat Snake <br/><i>Elaphe o. obsoleta</i></p> </div>
<div class="pb" id="Page_33">33</div>
<p>The following is a list of snakes that
may have a few drawbacks as pets, or are not
recommended to keep in captivity:</p>
<p class="revint">Racers and Coachwhips (<i>Coluber</i> and <i>Masticophis</i>),
very nervous ... seldom eat in
captivity.</p>
<p class="revint">Ringneck, Brown, and other small burrowing
snakes; these secretive species often will
not eat in captivity, and require animal
foods which may be difficult to secure.</p>
<p class="revint">Ribbon, Garter, and Green snakes; because
they may be hard to feed in winter, it is
best to keep only during the summer months.</p>
<p class="revint">Eastern Indigo Snake (<i>Drymarchon corais couperi</i>),
this species is protected in the
state of Florida, and is becoming rare
over all its range.</p>
<p class="revint">Cook’s Tree Boa (<i>Corallus enydris cookii</i>), this
species, as well as other tree boas, often
have a bad disposition, and may feed only
on birds.</p>
<p class="revint">Emerald Tree Boa (<i>Corallus canina</i>), not only
does this species prefer birds to eat,
they also seem to require a very high
humidity.</p>
<p class="tb">Most tropical snakes do not do well in
captivity. This may be due to the fact that
they are taken out of their natural environment
and it is next to impossible to duplicate
the climatic conditions that they are used to.</p>
<p class="tb">Although the above lists are far from
complete, it is hoped that they will give the
reader some basic ideas on how to select the
snakes for his small, home collection. Once
again, it should be emphasized that within a
particular species of snake, there may be some
<span class="pb" id="Page_34">34</span>
differences in individual personalities.
It is possible to get a black rat snake that
doesn’t eat, or a racer (genus <i>Coluber</i>) that
does not bite and eats well in captivity.
A person should learn from their own experiences,
and also from the experiences of others,
both professional and amateur.</p>
<p class="tb">The keeping of snakes can be a very rewarding
and enjoyable experience, but it must
be remembered that it is also a responsibility.
You are responsible for the care and well-being
of the animal. You must learn as much
as possible about the requirements of a particular
snake before you decide to keep it as
a “pet”.</p>
<p><span class="lr">R.N.B.</span></p>
<div class="pb" id="Page_35">35</div>
<h2 id="c7"><span class="small">BIBLIOGRAPHY</span></h2>
<p class="revint">Allen, E.E., and W.T. Neill. 1950. Keep them
alive! The Reptile Inst., Silver Springs, Fla.</p>
<p class="revint">Anderson, P. 1965. The reptiles of Missouri.
Univ. Mo. Press, Columbia, Mo.</p>
<p class="revint">Anon. 1969. Leaflet #1-5 (turtle and tortoise
care), International Turtle & Tortoise Soc.,
Los Angeles, Calif.</p>
<p class="revint">Breen, J.F. 1967. Reptiles and Amphibians in
your home. T.F.H. Publications, Jersey City,
N.J.</p>
<p class="revint">Conant, R. 1975. A field guide to reptiles and
amphibians. <i>2nd</i> ed. Houghton Mifflin Co.,
Boston, Mass.</p>
<p class="revint">Cochran, D.M. 1961. Living Amphibians of the
World. Doubleday, Garden City, N.Y.</p>
<p class="revint">Goin, C.J., and O.B. Goin. 1971. Introduction
to herpetology. <span class="u">2nd</span> ed. Freeman, San Francisco,
Calif.</p>
<p class="revint">Johnson, T.R. 1970. Salamanders in captivity.
The Kentucky Herpetologist, Ky. Herp. Soc.,
Vol. 1(3):9-10.</p>
<p class="revint">Johnson, T.R., and R.N. Bader. 1974. Annotated
checklist of Missouri amphibians and reptiles.
Special Issue No. 1, St. Louis Herp. Soc.</p>
<p class="revint">Kauffeld, C. 1969. Snakes: The keeper and the
kept. Doubleday, N.Y.</p>
<p class="revint">Leviton, A.E. 1972. Reptiles and amphibians
of North America. Doubleday, N.Y.</p>
<p class="revint">Nace, G., <i>et al.</i> 1974. Amphibians, guidelines
for the breeding, care, and management of
laboratory animals. Nat. Acad. Sci., Washington,
D.C.</p>
<p class="revint">Pritchard, P.C.H. 1967. Living turtles of the
World. T.F.H. Publications, N.Y.</p>
<p class="revint">Reichenbach-Klinke, H., and E. Elkan. 1965.
Diseases of Amphibians. T.F.H. Publications,
Hong Kong.</p>
<p class="revint">——. 1965. Diseases of Reptiles. T.F.H. Publications,
Hong Kong.</p>
<p class="revint">Schmidt, K.P., and R.F. Inger. 1957. Living
reptiles of the World. Hanover House, N.Y.</p>
<p class="revint">Smith, H.M. 1969. Turtles. T.F.H. Publications,
Jersey City, N.J.</p>
<div class="pb" id="Page_36">36</div>
<h2 id="c8"><span class="small">- NOTES -</span></h2>
<div class="pb" id="Page_37">37</div>
<h2 id="c9"><span class="small"><span class="smaller">THE</span> ST. LOUIS HERPETOLOGICAL SOCIETY</span></h2>
<p>The St. Louis area amateur and professional
herpetologists have organised a regional
herpetological society. The S.L.H.S. is interested
in promoting public education and conservation
of the herpetofauna of Missouri. The
organisation has a monthly meeting, guest
speaker, a monthly newsletter, as well as special
publications. All areas of herpetology are
the concern of its members; herp management,
taxonomy, conservation, and so on.</p>
<p class="tb">People of all ages have become members of
this active group. They are interested in all
forms of amphibians and reptiles, both of the
state of Missouri and species outside our
state. Dues are $5.00 per year, after July <i>1st</i>
the dues are $2.50. For more information,
please write to any of the persons listed on
the inside front cover.</p>
<h2 id="c10"><span class="small">FOOTNOTES</span></h2>
<div class="fnblock"><div class="fndef"><SPAN class="fn" id="fn_1" href="#fr_1">[1]</SPAN>Endangered Species</div>
</div>
<h2>Transcriber’s Notes</h2>
<ul>
<li>Silently corrected a few typos.</li>
<li>Retained publication information from the printed edition: this eBook is public-domain in the country of publication.</li>
<li>In the text versions only, text in italics is delimited by _underscores_.</li>
</ul>
<SPAN name="endofbook"></SPAN>
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