<h2>CHAPTER XIII<br/> <span class="small">ROCKS, STONES, AND SCENERY</span></h2>
<p class="hanging">An old wall—Beautiful colours—Insects—Nature's chief aim—Hard
times of lichens—Age of lichens—Crusts—Mosses—Lava flows of
great eruptions—Colonizing plants—Krakatoa—Vesuvius—Greenland
volcanoes—Sumatra—Shale-heaps—Foreigners on railway lines—Plants
keep to their own grounds—Precipices and rocks—Plants
which change the scenery—Cañons in America.</p>
<p><span class="dropcap">A</span>T first sight, and when one is striding along at some
four miles an hour, there seems to be nothing at all
interesting in an old wall. But if one stops and carefully
examines the stones, there is a great deal that is
interesting.</p>
<p>Rocks and walls possess a fascination of their own.
Probably at least 2000 British plants are <em>only</em> found upon
them, and yet of these, the vast majority are so small and inconspicuous
that an ordinary person never perceives a single
one of them.</p>
<p>It is perhaps on rocks or old walls near the sea that this
stone flora is most richly developed. The nearly circular
orange-yellow patches of the Lichen <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Physcia parietina</i> are
quite distinct and conspicuous. But any old wall, provided
it is well out in the country, is pretty sure to be interesting.</p>
<p>At first it seems to have only a dull grey or neutral tint.
But if one goes to four or five feet distance, one discovers
that many shades of brown, red, white, and black go to make
this grey.</p>
<p><span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_167" id="Page_167">167</SPAN></span>
But the extraordinary beauty of such a wall is only visible
when one peers and scrutinizes the surface very slowly and
carefully with the eyes six or seven inches away from it.</p>
<p>In doing this, one is often troubled by rude and ribald
boys. A botanical friend indeed complained that he had
been for months avoided and shunned as a dangerous wandering
lunatic on account of his botanical enthusiasm. But
true botanists get accustomed to disagreeable incidents like
that, and pay no attention to the vulgar crowd.</p>
<p>The change in an old wall when one looks at it from a few
inches distance is most remarkable. The entire surface is
spotted or dusted, sprinkled or entirely covered by thick
lichen stains and crusts.</p>
<p>The original colour of the stone is nowhere visible. The
lichens show the most delicate shades and contrasts in colour;
all pleasing and all blending together in harmonious general
tones. The fruit of these lichens is like a minute saucer or
platter generally with a thin rim or border, but it is exceedingly
small, probably only one-sixteenth of an inch in
diameter, or even less. The smallest of these crust lichens
form continuous, very thin, coatings, covering the stone;
and against this background the little saucer-like fruits
show up quite distinctly.</p>
<p>The coating itself varies from "bright yellow, pale ochre,
citron, chestnut colour, to mouse colour, different shades of
grey and green, cream colour, lead colour, blue-black or pure
black, tawny, brown, rusty red or pure white." The cups of
one kind (<i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Lecidea</i><SPAN name="FNanchor_77" id="FNanchor_77" href="#Footnote_77" class="fnanchor">[77]</SPAN>) are black, whilst those of <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Lecanora</i> are
generally reddish-brown. But they may be a ghostly pale
hue which stands out plainly against the grey-green background
of the frond.</p>
<p><span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_168" id="Page_168">168</SPAN></span>
Sometimes they are of the richest deep crimson or lake,
set against a pure snow-white crust. Those of <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Lecanora
vitellina</i> are, though tiny, a brilliant yellow, and quite
startling when first one notices them. Many of these contrasts
and shades are never used by artists, and even from
the mere artistic point of view they have great interest.</p>
<p>But if, after spending a few minutes in carefully looking
over the rocks at a distance of six or seven inches, one stands
up and goes back to four or five feet away, the whole of this
colour scheme fades away and there is only the monotonous
indeterminate grey or neutral tint of the wall.</p>
<p>Now why is this? Why should these delicate and exquisite
shades be wasted on such minute and scarcely distinguishable
forms?</p>
<p>There are always two sides from which one can look at
any subject, namely the <em>inside</em> and the <em>outside</em>.</p>
<p>From the inside (that is from the point of view of the
little lichen itself) these colours are decidedly useful. Small
insects crawl about on such walls or hover a few inches in
front of them, and to those insects these cups will be as conspicuous
and attractive as a scarlet geranium is to ourselves.</p>
<p>Just as we habitually go to look at a geranium, so those
insects fly towards the cups and crawl about on them. Then
when the spores and dust of the lichen begin to stick in
their hairs and feet, they go to a bare place and clean or
brush them off. Thus the spores and dust are carried to a
new part of the rock, where they will grow if they can find
an unoccupied place. The taste in colour of these insects,
moreover, is apparently not very different from that of man.</p>
<p>But perhaps a still more interesting point of view is that
from the outside. Why are those lichens there? What are
they doing, and are they of any use?</p>
<p><span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_169" id="Page_169">169</SPAN></span>
The general scheme of Nature is to cover the whole
world with green, so that every ray of sunlight may find a
working leaf or green frond ready to welcome it and use it.
Nature abhors bare rock, barren sand, and empty water,
and never ceases to try to bring it under that beautiful
covering of green plants and active vegetable life which
supports both man and animals.</p>
<p>We all know that there is a romance in the story of man's
colonies. First the explorer searches out the country; then
the pioneer frontiersman settles and builds his log-hut or
rough shanty. Next comes the frontier village, which may
perhaps in many years' time become a crowded city where
active, valuable work is carried on.</p>
<p>The story of the colonizing of rocks and stones by plants
is just as vividly interesting. These tiny lichens are almost
the first pioneers, and prepare the ground for those that
follow. Upon that bare rock, life is terribly severe. The
frost shatters it, sunshine heats it until it almost burns the
hand in summer. Floods of rain or of sleet beat against it,
and it may be frozen over for weeks.</p>
<p>What plant can stand such conditions? Only these
minute, tiny, scarce visible lichen films!</p>
<p>Gradually new lichen crusts develop upon it. They
cover over the first pioneers; first they suffocate them and
afterwards devour their remains. Nature is very businesslike
and severe in her working. The lichen crust may be now
about one-sixteenth of an inch thick. It is a very slow
process. There is a story of a boy who noticed a patch of
lichen near his father's door. He went away to Kamschatka
or somewhere and came back a very old man of eighty-five
years; but he found that the lichen patch was just the same
size as when he went away. That, however, is just a story!</p>
<p><span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_170" id="Page_170">170</SPAN></span>
At any rate, one of these little crust-lichens called <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Variolaria</i>
has been known to increase half a millimetre in size
(about a sixtieth part of an inch) between the end of
February and that of September.</p>
<p>Now if one tries to realize what the life of such a lichen
crust or crottle must be, it is obvious that the stone below
it must be a little corroded or weathered, and remains of the
first choked pioneers, bacteria, and possibly tiny insects or
animalcula will be under the crust, which may now be one-sixteenth
of an inch thick.</p>
<p>It is the turn now of other lichens to colonize it. These
may be the little trumpet or horn and cup lichens, <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Cladonias</i>,
or perhaps the larger grey kinds, <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Parmelias</i> and <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Physcias</i>,
which have leaf-like fronds and form circles of perhaps
eight to ten inches in diameter. The crust-lichen is overgrown,
broken up, disorganized, and devoured by the <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Parmelias</i>
and <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Cladonias</i>, who are helped by bacteria, insects, and
animalcula which shelter below them. These leafy lichens
grow much more rapidly.</p>
<p>They may increase two-thirds of an inch in one year.</p>
<p>But very soon after this, one notices a few inconspicuous
green mosses; at first in crevices between the stones or in
hollows, and not remarkable, they soon increase and form trailing
sprays or branches which grow very quickly. Branches
of moss four or five inches long extend over the leafy
lichens in a season. The <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Parmelias</i> and <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Cladonias</i> struggle
on, but they cannot keep pace with the rapid life of the
moss, and soon our wall is covered by beautiful moss turfs.</p>
<p>Underneath such a turf there may be an inch or so of
good soil (dead moss and dust with lichen and insect bodies).
Worms, insects, etc., shelter and flourish and multiply in this
soil.</p>
<p><span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_171" id="Page_171">171</SPAN></span>
But the turn of the moss is coming. Here a few grass-blades,
there a tiny plant of Sandwort, possibly a Rock Bedstraw,
begin to root themselves in the moss.</p>
<p>If people would only let the wall alone, it would soon be
festooned with hanging plants, and producing quantities of
grass, but somebody is sure to find that it looks very untidy,
and everything is torn off the wall, which again looks new
and raw and clean. Then of course the pioneer lichens begin
again!</p>
<p>Some very interesting and remarkable facts have been discovered
about the way in which lavas and basalts have been
occupied by the plant world.</p>
<p>In the great volcanic eruption of 1883, the whole island of
Krakatoa was covered by hot lava and glowing ashes. In
1884 and 1885 the sunsets were remarkable for a curious
fiery red or orange glow, which was popularly supposed to be
due to the volcanic dust of that explosion. It is said
that the dust travelled three times round the earth, though
I do not know on what authority.</p>
<p>However, on Krakatoa island there was left a clean "slate."
There were neither bacteria, nor leaf-mould, nor living plants
of any kind; no spores or seeds could have endured the fiery
furnace of the eruption.</p>
<p>Three years afterwards the botanist Treub visited the
island. He found that the rocks had been first covered by
thin layers of minute freshwater Algæ, but that ferns were
then occupying and inhabiting the lavas. Eleven kinds of
ferns, and but very few other plants, were discovered.</p>
<p>People were interested in this, and Dr. A. F. W. Schimper
then visited another volcano which had been pouring out
huge streams of lava in 1843. He found that there were
still plenty of ferns, but also numbers of shrubs and other
<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_172" id="Page_172">172</SPAN></span>
plants. Yet even then there were no trees, and there was no
continuous mantle of green plants such as we are accustomed
to in this country. He also found many plants growing on
the lava which are generally found on the branches of trees,
that is, which can do without a thick layer of soil. He also
found quantities of a pitcher plant, Nepenthes (which lives
mainly on insects caught in its pitchers).</p>
<p>This does not at first sight seem to agree at all with what
has been given for the walls. It is true that sometimes in the
Highlands, or Lowland and Lakeland Hills, one comes across
quantities of the Bladderfern and others growing on the
"screes." (These last may be described as streams of broken,
angular stones, filling small gullies, and spreading out at the
base over a considerable space.) Often these ferns seem to
be all that can thrive in amongst the stones. But in a mild
and temperate country like our own, one would expect
things to proceed differently.</p>
<p>And in fact they do so. Every one must have noticed a
green stain which covers wet walls, stones, stucco, even
marble statues, and especially tree bark in wet or damp
situations. This is a minute green seaweed rejoicing in the
name of Pleurococcus. It is a pretty object for the microscope.</p>
<p>This, of course, is the first stage of colonization. It is
followed by mosses of sorts.</p>
<p>But there is a more interesting series still in a climate
resembling our own. The lava-flows from Mount Vesuvius
have been investigated by several observers.</p>
<p>There it was found that the first inhabitants were <i>lichens</i>
and small green seaweeds; then "different mosses occupied
the lava over which a certain quantity of vegetable dust had
been scattered." After this, scattered ferns and even small
<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_173" id="Page_173">173</SPAN></span>
shrubs could be seen even on flows which were red-hot only
twenty years before, whilst on old lava-fields herbs, shrubs,
bushes, trees, and even true woods had developed.<SPAN name="FNanchor_78" id="FNanchor_78" href="#Footnote_78" class="fnanchor">[78]</SPAN></p>
<p>Yet in Greenland lava-flows dating from 1724-29 are still
only covered by crust-lichens and a very few of the stone-mosses!
In Sumatra, on the other hand, the volcano of
Tamboro, which in 1815 had entirely destroyed its vegetation,
was covered with a fine young wood in 1874!<SPAN name="FNanchor_79" id="FNanchor_79" href="#Footnote_79" class="fnanchor">[79]</SPAN> The strong
heat and abundant moisture of Sumatra favours, whilst the
horrible climate of Greenland prevents, the rapid growth of
good soil. Just as cities of 20,000 inhabitants can spring
up in a few months in the Western United States, whilst the
Esquimaux of Greenland have not managed as yet even to
live in villages!</p>
<p>The full beauty of this gradual colonization and occupation
of bare rock and stones only impresses one properly
if one tries to trace the stages, but it is an interesting
history.</p>
<p>Near Glasgow one sees great heaps of shale or blaes
(generally <i>blackband</i>), which are often mistaken for natural
hills. This is or was virgin soil, never occupied by plants,
and entirely destitute of leaf-mould or any sort of organic
plant-food.</p>
<p>If one scrambles to the top of one of these heaps, it is easy
to see all the details of the occupation. Long underground
runners of coltsfoot and of horsetail are climbing up the
sides, fringes of creeping buttercup, couchgrass, and other
hardy weeds occupy, every year, a little more of the flanks,
but, on the top, one very soon finds that the dust of the
atmosphere, aided by weathering, has afforded a chance to
<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_174" id="Page_174">174</SPAN></span>
mosses, to hawkweeds, and other rock plants. These in time
cover the top, and soon hardy grasses and weeds form a
regular turf on the top of the shale.</p>
<p>It is interesting to scramble to the top of one of these
heaps, especially in summer. One then begins to realize how
every plant attends strictly to its own business.</p>
<p>All over the sides of the heap there will be hundreds of
a rare groundsel (<i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Senecio viscosus</i>), which is not really a
native, and <em>never</em> occurs except on such places. In a grass
field close by hundreds of thousands of Ragwort (<i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Senecio
jacobæa</i>) make a glorious golden carpet; in the marshy part
of the meadow the Water Ragwort (<i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Senecio aquaticus</i>) may
be found. In the cottage gardens and here and there
along the roadside the groundsel (<i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Senecio vulgaris</i>) is
flourishing abundantly.</p>
<p>These plants never interfere with or encroach upon one
another's grounds. Every year thousands of ragweed and
groundsel seeds must be blown on to the shale-heap, but
they never manage to grow there.</p>
<p>It is only the foreigner (<i lang="la" xml:lang="la">S. viscosus</i>), accustomed to a very
hot and dry climate, and with sticky leaves which catch atmospheric
dust and probably insects, that can exist on the bare
shaly sides. These slopes of shale are easily heated by the
sun, and at the same time radiate the heat rapidly away, so
that the Viscid Groundsel must have a very hard time of it.
When its roots have worked up the shale a little, and its
dead leaves have covered the surface with mould and organic
matter, then possibly others (true British plants) can get
a footing and suppress it.</p>
<p>Along railway tracks, also, the ballast forms a very hot,
a very dry, and a very barren soil. Many of the regular
railway-track plants are foreigners from the far south, even
<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_175" id="Page_175">175</SPAN></span>
from the sunny shores of the Mediterranean. They are
mostly annuals, such as the little Toadflax (<i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Linaria minor</i>),
which can just manage to exist under those conditions.</p>
<p>Of course, the sides of the banks and of cuttings on railways
are generally formed of good earth or soil, and support
a rich and flourishing flora of true Britons.</p>
<p>Besides these slow, laborious lichens, mosses, and others
which attack rock, there are other plants which are generally
called rock plants, though they behave quite differently.</p>
<p>These are those fine hardy Hawkweeds, Roseroots, Sempervivums,
Mew, and others which establish their roots in cracks
or crevices of the rocks.</p>
<p>Such cracks are soon full of good soil, for the wind blows
decayed leaves and dust into them, and the roots are always
burrowing into, eating into, and shattering the rocks.
Most of them have a circle of leaves which are pressed flat
to the ground. Thus they escape the violent winds and
storms always common on such crags and precipices. The
flowers, however, supported on tough, strong, and flexible
stalks, sway freely to and fro in the wind, and can be seen by
insects a long way off.</p>
<p>These rock plants are of some importance as stonebreakers
and pioneers in a very interesting process.</p>
<p>Wherever a cliff or precipice of stone is exposed, it is
"weathered." Water gets into the cracks and freezes in
winter. But when water is frozen it expands or widens, and
as this happens to the water in the crevices and cracks of
rocks, pieces of rock are shivered and broken off. Besides
frost and wind and rain, these rock plants help to attack
the cliff. Their roots get into the crevices, and there
widen and expand, tearing off great slabs and splinters of
rock which fall down to the foot of the cliff.</p>
<p><span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_176" id="Page_176">176</SPAN></span>
Down below plants are every year growing over and
covering up or "happing up" with green these bare fragments
and splinters. A considerable amount falls down every year,
so that the ground is always being raised up below the
precipice. At the brow or edge above the precipice, there is
also always a loss of rock and stone every year.</p>
<p>So that every year the bare rock exposed becomes smaller
and smaller, until eventually a steep, green, grass-covered
slope covers over the entire site of that precipice.</p>
<p>Moreover that is not by any means all that plants do in the
way of changing the scenery of the country. Look at the outlines
of the hills in any part of Great Britain except in the
broken, jagged, rocky mountain ranges of Scotland and
Wales (also Cumberland, Westmorland, parts of Derbyshire
and Dartmoor tors). Everywhere there are smooth,
flowing, gently undulating rises and falls. No sharp, abrupt
descents break these graceful sweeping curves. If you compare
the scenery of a cañon in the rainless deserts of Western
America, the contrast is very striking. There the sides of the
valleys are steep cliffs; it is all harsh, precipitous, horrible
country, which is obviously very unpleasant and very unattractive
to civilized people.</p>
<p>It is this green covering of plants which makes the
difference. The rain that falls is not allowed to cut out
ragged ravines; it is intercepted and soaks into the grasses,
which so keep a smooth, gentle outline over hill and valley.</p>
<p>If you notice the effect of a heavy shower of rain on a road
or bare earth, you will see how soon tiny valleys and cañons
and beds of streamlets are cut out. But on the green fields
beside the road, there is no change in the surface at all! It
seems to be quite unaffected by the heaviest storm of rain.</p>
<p><span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_177" id="Page_177">177</SPAN></span></p>
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