<h2> CHAPTER I </h2>
<h3> LANDING AT HAVRE—TORTONI'S—FOLLOW<br/> THE TRAM LINES—ORDERS FOR THE FRONT </h3>
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<p>Gliding up the Seine, on a transport crammed to the lid with troops, in
the still, cold hours of a November morning, was my debut into the war.
It was about 6 a.m. when our boat silently slipped along past the great
wooden sheds, posts and complications of Havre Harbour. I had spent most
of the twelve-hour trip down somewhere in the depths of the ship,
dealing out rations to the hundred men that I had brought with me from
Plymouth. This sounds a comparatively simple process, but not a bit of
it. To begin with, the ship was filled with troops to bursting point,
and the mere matter of proceeding from one deck to another was about as
difficult as trying to get round to see a friend at the other side of
the ground at a Crystal Palace Cup final.</p>
<p>I stood in a queue of Gordons, Seaforths, Worcesters, etc., slowly
moving up one, until, finally arriving at the companion (nearly said
staircase), I tobogganed down into the hold, and spent what was left of
the night dealing out those rations. Having finished at last, I came to
the surface again, and now, as the transport glided along through the
dirty waters of the river, and as I gazed at the motley collection of
Frenchmen on the various wharves, and saw a variety of soldiery, and a
host of other warlike "props," I felt acutely that now I was <i>in</i> the
war at last—the real thing! For some time I had been rehearsing in
England; but that was over now, and here I was—in the common or garden
vernacular—"in the soup."</p>
<p>At last we were alongside, and in due course I had collected that
hundred men of mine, and found that the number was still a hundred,
after which I landed with the rest, received instructions and a guide,
then started off for the Base Camps.</p>
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<p>These Camps were about three miles out of Havre, and thither the whole
contents of the ship marched in one long column, accompanied on either
side by a crowd of ragged little boys shouting for souvenirs and
biscuits. I and my hundred men were near the rear of the procession, and
in about an hour's time arrived at the Base Camps.</p>
<p>I don't know that it is possible to construct anything more atrociously
hideous or uninteresting than a Base Camp. It consists, in military
parlance, of nothing more than:—</p>
<p>Fields, grassless 1<br/>
Tents, bell 500<br/></p>
<p>In fact, a huge space, once a field, now a bog, on which are perched
rows and rows of squalid tents.</p>
<p>I stumbled along over the mud with my troupe, and having found the
Adjutant, after a considerable search, thought that my task was over,
and that I could slink off into some odd tent or other and get a sleep
and a rest. Oh no!—the Adjutant had only expected fifty men, and here
was I with a hundred.</p>
<p>Consternation! Two hours' telephoning and intricate back-chat with the
Adjutant eventually led to my being ordered to leave the expected fifty
and take the others to another Base Camp hard by, and see if they would
like to have them there.</p>
<p>The rival Base Camp expressed a willingness to have this other fifty, so
at last I had finished, and having found an empty tent, lay down on the
ground, with my greatcoat for a pillow and went to sleep.</p>
<p>I awoke at about three in the afternoon, got hold of a bucket of water
and proceeded to have a wash. Having shaved, washed, brushed my hair,
and had a look at the general effect in the polished back of my
cigarette case (all my kit was still at the docks), I emerged from my
canvas cave and started off to have a look round.</p>
<p>I soon discovered a small café down the road, and found it was a place
used by several of the officers who, like myself, were temporarily
dumped at the Camps. I went in and got something to eat. Quite a good
little place upstairs there was, where one could get breakfast each
morning: just coffee, eggs, and bread sort of thing. By great luck I met
a pal of mine here; he had come over in a boat previous to mine, and
after we had had a bit of a refresher and a smoke we decided to go off
down to Havre and see the sights.</p>
<p>A tram passed along in front of this café, and this we boarded. It took
about half an hour getting down to Havre from Bléville where the Camps
were, but it was worth it.</p>
<p>Tortoni's Café, a place that we looked upon as the last link with
civilization: Tortoni's, with its blaze of light, looking-glass and gold
paint—its popping corks and hurrying waiters—made a deep and pleasant
indent on one's mind, for "to-morrow" meant "the Front" for most of
those who sat there.</p>
<p>As we sat in the midst of that kaleidoscopic picture, formed of French,
Belgian and English uniforms, intermingled with the varied and gaudy
robes of the local nymphs; as we mused in the midst of dense clouds of
tobacco smoke, we could not help reflecting that this <i>might</i> be the
last time we should look on such scenes of revelry, and came to the
conclusion that the only thing to do was to make the most of it while we
had the chance. And, by Gad, we did....</p>
<p>A little after midnight I parted from my companion and started off to
get back to that Base Camp of mine.</p>
<p>Standing in the main square of the town, I realized a few points which
tended to take the edge off the success of the evening:</p>
<p>No. 1.—It was too late to get a tram.</p>
<p>No. 2.—All the taxis had disappeared.</p>
<p>No. 3.—It was pouring with rain.</p>
<p>No. 4.—I had three miles to go.</p>
<p>I started off to walk it—but had I known what that walk was going to
be, I would have buttoned myself round a lamp-post and stayed where I
was.</p>
<p>I made that fatal mistake of thinking that I knew the way.</p>
<p>Leaning at an angle of forty-five degrees against the driving rain, I
staggered along the tram lines past the Casino, and feeling convinced
that the tram lines must be correct, determined to follow them.</p>
<p>After about half an hour's walk, mostly uphill, I became rather
suspicious as to the road being quite right.</p>
<p>Seeing a sentry-box outside a palatial edifice on the right, I tacked
across the road and looked for the sentry.</p>
<p>A lurid thing in gendarmes advanced upon me, and I let off one of my
curtailed French sentences at him:</p>
<p>"Pour Bléville, Monsieur?"</p>
<p>I can't give his answer in French, but being interpreted I think it
meant that I was completely on the wrong road, and that he wasn't
certain as to how I could ever get back on it without returning to Havre
and starting again.</p>
<p>He produced an envelope, made an unintelligible sketch on the back of
it, and started me off again down the way I had come.</p>
<p>I realized what my mistake had been. There was evidently a branch tram
line, which I had followed, and this I thought could only have branched
off near the Casino, so back I went to the Casino and started again.</p>
<p>I was right about the branch line, and started merrily off again, taking
as I thought the main line to Bléville.</p>
<p>After another half-hour of this, with eyes feverishly searching for
recognizable landmarks, I again began to have doubts as to the veracity
of the tram lines. However, pretending that I placed their honesty
beyond all doubt, I plodded on; but round a corner, found the outlook so
unfamiliar that I determined to ask again. Not a soul about. Presently I
discovered a small house, standing back off the road and showing a thin
slit of light above the shutters of a downstairs window. I tapped on the
glass. A sound as of someone hurriedly trying to hide a pile of
coverless umbrellas in a cupboard was followed by the opening of the
window, and a bristling head was silhouetted against the light.</p>
<p>I squeezed out the same old sentence:</p>
<p>"Pour Bléville, Monsieur?"</p>
<p>A fearful cataract of unintelligible words burst from the head, but left
me almost as much in the dark as ever, though with a faint glimmering
that I was "warmer." I felt that if I went back about a mile and turned
to the left, all would be well.</p>
<p>I thanked the gollywog in the window, who, somehow or other, I think
must have been a printer working late, and started off once more.</p>
<p>After another hour's route march I came to some scattered houses, and
finally to a village. I was indignantly staring at a house when
suddenly, joy!—I realized that what I was looking at was an unfamiliar
view of the café where I had breakfasted earlier in the day.</p>
<p>Another ten minutes and I reached the Camp. Time now 2.30 a.m. I thought
I would just take a look in at the Orderly Room tent to see if there
were any orders in for me. It was lucky I did. Inside I found an orderly
asleep in a blanket, and woke him.</p>
<p>"Anything in for me?" I asked. "Bairnsfather's my name."</p>
<p>"Yes, sir, there is," came through the blanket, and getting up he went
to the table at the other end of the tent. He sleepily handed me the
wire: "Lieutenant Bairnsfather to proceed to join his battalion as
machine-gun officer...."</p>
<p>"What time do I have to push off?" I inquired.</p>
<p>"By the eight o'clock from Havre to-morrow, sir."</p>
<p>Time now 3 a.m. To-morrow—THE FRONT! And then I crept into my tent and
tried to sleep.</p>
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