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Palmetto Leaves

<div class="tnbox"> Transcriber's Note: Obvious typographical errors have been corrected. Inconsistent spelling and hyphenation in the original document have been preserved. Page 266: Ocklawaha should possibly be Okalewaha </div> <div class="figcenter"> <ANTIMG src="images/frontis.jpg" width-obs="410" height-obs="600" alt="Frontispiece" /></div> <h1 class="p4">PALMETTO-LEAVES</h1> BY HARRIET BEECHER STOWE. ILLUSTRATED. <div class="figcenter"> <ANTIMG src="images/titlepage.jpg" width-obs="139" height-obs="150" alt="Printer's Logo" /></div> BOSTON: JAMES R. OSGOOD AND COMPANY, (LATE TICKNOR & FIELDS, AND FIELDS, OSGOOD, & CO.) 1873. Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1873, By JAMES R. OSGOOD & CO., In the Office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington. Boston: Stereotyped and Printed by Rand, Avery, & Co. <h2 class="p6 b13">CONTENTS.</h2> <table summary="Contents"> <col width="400" /> <col width="50" /> <tr><td> </td><td class="tdr">PAGE.</td></tr> <tr><td>Nobody's Dog</td><td class="tdr">1</td></tr> <tr><td>A Flowery January in Florida</td><td class="tdr">16</td></tr> <tr><td>The Wrong Side of the Tapestry</td><td class="tdr">26</td></tr> <tr><td>A Letter To the Girls</td><td class="tdr">40</td></tr> <tr><td>A Water-coach, and a Ride in It</td><td class="tdr">53</td></tr> <tr><td>Picnicking up Julington</td><td class="tdr">69</td></tr> <tr><td>Magnolia</td><td class="tdr">87</td></tr> <tr><td>Yellow Jessamines</td><td class="tdr">97</td></tr> <tr><td>"Florida for Invalids"</td><td class="tdr">116</td></tr> <tr><td>Swamps and Orange-Trees</td><td class="tdr">137</td></tr> <tr><td>Letter-Writing</td><td class="tdr">148</td></tr> <tr><td>Magnolia Week</td><td class="tdr">161</td></tr> <tr><td>Buying Land in Florida</td><td class="tdr">175</td></tr> <tr><td>Our Experience in Crops</td><td class="tdr">185</td></tr> <tr><td>May in Florida</td><td class="tdr">196</td></tr> <tr><td>St. Augustine</td><td class="tdr">206</td></tr> <tr><td>Our Neighbor Over the Way</td><td class="tdr">225</td></tr> <tr><td>The Grand Tour up River</td><td class="tdr">247</td></tr> <tr><td>Old Cudjo and the Angel</td><td class="tdr">267</td></tr> <tr><td>The Laborers of the South</td><td class="tdr">279</td></tr> </table> <div class="figcenter p6"> <ANTIMG src="images/map.jpg" width-obs="414" height-obs="600" alt="Map of the St. John River" /> MAP OF THE ST. JOHN RIVER, FLORIDA. </div> <div class="figcenter p6"> <ANTIMG src="images/i001_550.jpg" width-obs="550" height-obs="381" alt="The Savannah Steamer" /></div> 1 <h2>NOBODY'S DOG.</h2> <ANTIMG src="images/dcy.jpg" alt="Y" width-obs="125" height-obs="123" class="floatl" /> ES, here he comes again! Look at him! Whose dog is he? We are sitting around the little deck-house of the Savannah steamer, in that languid state of endurance which befalls voyagers, when, though the sky is clear, and the heavens blue, and the sea calm as a looking-glass, there is yet that gentle, treacherous, sliding rise and fall, denominated a ground-swell. Reader, do you remember it? Of all deceitful 2 demons of the deep, this same smooth, slippery, cheating ground-swell is the most diabolic. Because, you see, he is a mean imp, an underhanded, unfair, swindling scamp, who takes from you all the glory of endurance. Fair to the eye, plausible as possible, he says to you, "What's the matter? What can you ask brighter than this sky, smoother than this sea, more glossy and calm than these rippling waves? How fortunate that you have such an exceptionally smooth voyage!" And yet look around the circle of pale faces fixed in that grim expression of endurance, the hands belonging to them resolutely clasping lemons,—those looks of unutterable, repressed disgust and endurance. Are these people seasick? Oh, no! of course not. "Of course," says the slippery, plausible demon, "these people can't be sick in this delightful weather, and with this delightful, smooth sea!" 3 But here comes the dog, now slowly drooping from one to another,—the most woe-begone and dejected of all possible dogs. Not a bad-looking dog, either; not without signs about him of good dog blood. We say one to another, as we languidly review his points, "His hair is fine and curly: he has what might be a fine tail, were it not drooping in such abject dejection and discouragement. Evidently this is a dog that has seen better days,—a dog that has belonged to somebody, and taken kindly to petting." His long nose, and great limpid, half-human eyes, have a suggestion of shepherd-dog blood about them. He comes and seats himself opposite, and gazes at you with a pitiful, wistful, intense gaze, as much as to say, "Oh! do you know where HE is? and how came I here?—poor, miserable dog that I am!" He walks in a feeble, discouraged way to the wheel-house, and sniffs at the 4 salt water that spatters there; gives one lick, and stops, and comes and sits quietly down again: it's "no go." "Poor fellow! he's thirsty," says one; and the Professor, albeit not the most nimble of men, climbs carefully down the cabin-stairs for a tumbler of water, brings it up, and places it before him. Eagerly he laps it all up; and then, with the confiding glance of a dog not unused to kindness, looks as if he would like more. Another of the party fills his tumbler, and he drinks that. "Why, poor fellow, see how thirsty he was!" "I wonder whose dog he is?" "Somebody ought to see to this dog!" are comments passing round among the ladies, who begin throwing him bits of biscuit, which he snaps up eagerly. "He's hungry too. Only see how hungry he is! Nobody feeds this dog. Whom does he belong to?" 5 One of the ship's stewards, passing, throws in a remark, "That dog's seasick: that's what's the matter with him. It won't do to feed that dog; it won't: it'll make terrible work." Evidently some stray dog, that has come aboard the steamer by accident,—looking for a lost master, perhaps; and now here he is alone and forlorn. Nobody's dog! One of the company, a gentle, fair-haired young girl, begins stroking his rough, dusty hair, which though fine, and capable of a gloss if well kept, now is full of sticks and straws. An unseemly patch of tar disfigures his coat on one side, which seems to worry him: for he bites at it now and then aimlessly; then looks up with a hopeless, appealing glance, as much as to say, "I know I am looking like a fright; but I can't help it. Where is HE? and where am I? and what does it all mean?" But the caresses of the fair-haired lady inspire 6 him with a new idea. He will be "nobody's dog" no longer: he will choose a mistress. From that moment he is like a shadow to the fair-haired lady: he follows her steps everywhere, mournful, patient, with drooping tail and bowed head, as a dog not sure of his position, but humbly determined to have a mistress if dogged faith and persistency can compass it. She walks the deck; and tick, tick, pitapat, go the four little paws after her. She stops: he stops, and looks wistful. Whenever and wherever she sits down, he goes and sits at her feet, and looks up at her with eyes of unutterable entreaty. The stewards passing through the deck-house give him now and then a professional kick; and he sneaks out of one door only to walk quietly round a corner and in at the other, and place himself at her feet. Her party laugh, and rally her on her attractions. She now and then pats 7 and caresses and pities him, and gives him morsels of biscuit out of her stores. Evidently she belongs to the band of dog-lovers. In the tedious dulness of the three-days' voyage the dog becomes a topic, and his devotion to the fair-haired lady an engrossment. We call for his name. The stewards call him "Jack:" but he seems to run about as well for one name as another; and it is proposed to call him "Barnes," from the name of the boat we are on. The suggestion drops, from want of energy in our very demoralized company to carry it. Not that we are seasick, one of us: oh, no! Grimly upright, always at table, and eating our three meals a day, who dares intimate that we are sick? Perish the thought! It is only a dizzy, headachy dulness, with an utter disgust for every thing in general, that creeps over us; and Jack's mournful face reflects but too truly our own internal troubles. 8 But at last here we are at Savannah and the Scriven House; and the obliging waiters rush out and take us in and do for us with the most exhaustive attention. Here let us remark on the differences in hotels. In some you are waited on sourly, in some grudgingly, in some carelessly, in some with insolent negligence. At the Scriven House you are received like long-expected friends. Every thing is at your hand, and the head waiter arranges all as benignantly as if he were really delighted to make you comfortable. So we had a golden time at the Scriven House, where there is every thing to make the wayfarer enjoy himself. Poor Jack was overlooked in the bustle of the steamer and the last agonies of getting landed. We supposed we had lost sight of him forever. But lo! when the fair-haired lady was crossing the hall to her room, a dog, desperate and dusty, fought his way through the ranks of waiters to get to her. 9 "It isn't our dog; put him out gently; don't hurt him," said the young lady's father. But Jack was desperate, and fought for his mistress, and bit the waiter that ejected him, and of course got kicked with emphasis into the street. The next morning, one of our party, looking out of the window, saw Jack watching slyly outside of the hotel. Evidently he was waiting for an opportunity to cast himself at the feet of his chosen protectress. "If I can only see her, all will yet be right," he says to himself. We left Savannah in the cars that afternoon; and the last we heard of Jack, he had been seen following the carriage of his elected mistress in a drive to Bonaventure. What was the end of the poor dog's romance we have never heard. Whether he is now blessed in being somebody's dog,—petted, cared for, 10 caressed,—or whether he roves the world desolate-hearted as "nobody's dog," with no rights to life, liberty, or pursuit of happiness, we have no means of knowing. But the measureless depth of dumb sorrow, want, woe, entreaty, that there are in a wandering dog's eyes, is something that always speaks much to us,—dogs in particular which seem to leave their own kind to join themselves to man, and only feel their own being complete when they have formed a human friendship. It seems like the ancient legends of those incomplete natures, a little below humanity, that needed a human intimacy to develop them. How much dogs suffer mentally is a thing they have no words to say; but there is no sorrow deeper than that in the eyes of a homeless, friendless, masterless dog. We rejoice, therefore, to learn that one portion of the twenty thousand dollars which the ladies of Boston have raised for "Our 11 Dumb Animals" is about to be used in keeping a home for stray dogs. Let no one sneer at this. If, among the "five sparrows sold for two farthings," not one is forgotten by our Father, certainly it becomes us not to forget the poor dumb companions of our mortal journey, capable, with us, of love and its sorrows, of faithfulness and devotion. There is, we are told, a dog who haunts the station at Revere, daily looking for the return of a master he last saw there, and who, alas! will never return. There are, many times and oft, dogs strayed from families, accustomed to kindness and petting, who have lost all they love, and have none to care for them. To give such a refuge, till they find old masters or new, seems only a part of Christian civilization. The more Christ's spirit prevails, the more we feel for all that can feel and suffer. The poor brute struggles and suffers with us, companion 12 of our mysterious travel in this lower world; and who has told us that he may not make a step upward in the beyond? For our own part, we like that part of the poor Indian's faith,— <div class="poem"> "That thinks, admitted to yon equal sky, His faithful dog shall bear him company." </div> So much for poor Jack. Now for Savannah. It is the prettiest of Southern cities, laid out in squares, planted with fine trees, and with a series of little parks intersecting each street, so that one can walk on fine walks under trees quite through the city, down to a larger park at the end of all. Here there is a fountain whose charming sculpture reminds one of those in the south of France. A belt of ever-blooming violets encircles it; and a well-kept garden of flowers, shut in by an evergreen hedge, surrounds the whole. It is like a little bit of Paris, and strikes one refreshingly who has left New York two days before in a whirling snow-storm. 13 The thing that every stranger in Savannah goes to see, as a matter of course, is Bonaventure. This is an ancient and picturesque estate, some miles from the city, which has for years been used as a cemetery. How shall we give a person who has never seen live-oaks or gray moss an idea of it? Solemn avenues of these gigantic trees, with their narrow evergreen leaves, their gnarled, contorted branches feathered with ferns and parasitic plants, and draped with long swaying draperies of this gray, fairy-like moss, impress one singularly. The effect is solemn and unearthly; and the distant tombs, urns, and obelisks gleaming here and there among the shadows make it more impressive. Beneath the trees, large clumps of palmetto, with their waving green fans, give a tropical suggestion to the scene; while yellow jessamine 14 wreathe and clamber from tree to tree, or weave mats of yellow blossoms along the ground. It seems a labyrinth of fairy grottoes, and is in its whole impression something so unique, that no one should on any account miss of seeing it. Savannah is so pleasant a city, and the hotels there are so well kept, that many find it far enough south for all their purposes, and spend the winter there. But we are bound farther towards the equator, and so here we ponder the question of our onward journey. A railroad with Pullman sleeping-cars takes one in one night from Savannah to Jacksonville, Fla.; then there is a steamboat that takes one round by the open sea, and up through the mouth of the St. John's River, to Jacksonville. Any one who has come to see scenery should choose this route. The entrance of the St. John's from the ocean is one of the most singular and impressive passages of scenery that we 15 ever passed through: in fine weather the sight is magnificent. Besides this, a smaller boat takes passengers to Jacksonville by what is called the inside passage,—a circuitous course through the network of islands that lines the shore. This course also offers a great deal of curious interest to one new to Southern scenery, and has attractions for those who dread the sea. By any of these courses Florida may be gained in a few hours or days, more or less, from Savannah. <div class="figcenter p6"> <ANTIMG src="images/i002.jpg" width-obs="550" height-obs="369" alt="A Flowery January" /></div> <div style="break-after:column;"></div>

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